confused in tuning
Hi Bro out there,
Im quite new to archery.
i need help from you guys and girls to solve my confusion for my Rytera Nemesis.
First of all
My draw length is short, is at 27" and the cam module needs to be set at no.1 for the shortest
draw length. as the draw length gets shorter, does this mean, the cam rotate lesser? compare to a
archer who has a 29" draw length? It feels like my cam is under rotation? How do i fix this problem?
Or i have to face the fact that shorter draw length archer has this disadvantage?
The current draw length is not quite there, therefore i try to shorten the draw length by
tinny bit.Just to get the right feeling when anchoring.
To shorten the draw length, i think i need to untwist (2 twist) the cable rite? and add some twist to the string.
i Did it last nite. i can feel a small little difference. Feels alrite.... not much difference
So this morning i headed to my backyard, and shoot 10 arrows. floating is good. grouped well.
But the Bow seem loud. HEADACHE now. Previous set up is by the previous
owner of the bow, and the bow sound "tup". issit normal for a bow sound liddat?
Now is "Twang" checked everythings, not loose parts. Is my timing not correct?
Talkabout the Brace Height and the ATA. Brace Height measure 7.25" and ATA is 34.75" at current.
im too far from the BH and ATA standard? Nemesis read as 7" and 34"
Before i untwist the cable, the BH 7.3 or .4" and the ATA almost the same.
So, my problem. BH and ATA is not parallel. BH increase, ATA drop. ATA increase BH drop.
Am i Right? or im on the wrong track of tuning the cable and string. Or its OK to have such BH and ATA. it wouldnt hurt. the standard spec is for reference.
Timing, i have my knocking point line up with berger hole, i think most of us does that,
so, meaning we are knocking the arrow off center of the string rite? if mathematically calculation the knocking point is higher if the string divided by two.
If this is the case, timing is related, true? Since the knocking is not perfect center on the bow string.
and is much higher, so the bottom part of the string, or the bottom cam has more room to rotate? Correct me if im wrong.I Kinda confused. If that is the case, meaning the cable feeds into the bottom cam has to be a little bit shorter then the top cam? How should i heading now???
Sorry, i do not have a draw board. so i only can trial and error for best performance.
All your reply and words is appreciated. Thanks in advance
wow... i didnt know im so confused in archery. i though i can just buy a bow, and Happy Shooting.
Now i try to tune the bow all by myself as the local archery shop here cost bomb for using their services,
I start getting addicted in tuning and hand is itchy, but a lot of things i would like to ask around, but cant find the right person to ask as
im tuning the bow alone, and nobody does it at my place, because they just love to send their bow to the pro shop. "Bang"
not to familiar with the nemesis but i got an onza and basically similar in cam design and etc it sounds like your cams WERE in time but when you took the twist out of the string it took it out of timing and as for changing the draw length it sounds to me as though you dont have your letoff adjusted right try messing with the peg on the bottom cam that makes contact with the bottom limb to acquire the feel you want this might help shorten your draw slightly. i think you should add those twists where you took them out and mess with the draw stop a little.
Timing is all about the cams running together and carrying equal workload meaning they move in the exact relation to eachother there is threads about tuning on here check out the bow tuning threads. the bh and a2a are not to far off and i feel adding those two twist back in will get them back to all square and your cams.
thanks for the input....
Originally Posted by WildWilt15
Others bros and sis.... any comments?
i would repost in the martin forum, as the cat/nitro cams are the same as the hybrix. a few quick comments for you though. when you set the modules you are changing where the cam rolls over, so no, even if you draw short you arent under rotating your cams. your back wall should feel really really solid if your cam timing is correct. if it feels spongy its not quite right. how many twists did you put in your string??? i added 6 twists to my alien z to get it to about 27.75 inches, ish. add 4 more twists, it wont hurt anything. the noise my be from the brace height changing and your string stop may need adjusted a bit. a common adjustment is to have the string just a bit off the string (credit card thickness) anyway, lots of info is on the martin side of this forum, and it all interchanges.
Thanks for the input.
Originally Posted by justin
Might be the sts since the brace height changed.
for the bow to be in time the strings and cables should be at factory lengths, the best way to check this is under 90-100 lbs of tention.that requires a string jig with a scale. you should be able to move the draw stop peg on the bottom cam until you get the back wall that feels good to you some like it solid and some like it spongie. the more solid it is the less letoff you will have ,that is the wt. you will be holding at full draw . you can tweek it and get it to where it feels good to you. hope this helps. good shooting