no not at all, it was just a thing of if you got the money try em out kinda thing, i mean i have a pretty god income yet its not disposable, and at the box store where i live they had a few good choices for broadheads, and actually the one i think i will choose is the fixed blade that slips over the shaft. this is the first time i have spent my own money on archery, but started when i was about 12 and have taken about a 10yr break. im 26 now, and like someone said about they would have chosen a 300 spine arrow, well i did, the gold tips they were only $45 and now that i have the carbon injexions those particular gold tips were a waste of money, and yeah im sure that someone else makes arrows as good as my eastons, but the availability of those choices is very limited where i live. there are no archery shops except the box store.... we have a really nice range with 3D shoots on saturday, im from Kenai,Alaska and i plan on doing Red Fox hunting, moose and possible bear and caribou haha and i will get the fox at work they come up to your truck so that will be an easy kill, oh yeah also coyotes as well, they are a lil more skiddish but they are some of the best looking pelts for coyotes.
I do have to say it sounds like you live in hunting heaven. I envy you that. Have fun.
And when you get those "slip over the shaft" broadheads you need to post the info here. I was not aware that there were such things and would like to learn more--even from a rookie.
here is a link for the broadheads, they are also on the spendy side at $40 for 3, but i really like the design over the other types maybe it will work good.
and yeah i am in hunting heaven pretty nice to be able to hunt at work im getting ready to buy a lil over 2 acres in an area that will have alot of hunting opportunitys, right next to a lake :)
also when i first got my silencer i speed tested it with the gold tip arrows and hit 290 without any tuning that was right after the d loop install and the rest, sight install, it was setup with a laser and levels, but now after tuning and what have you to my eye it appears that the injexions are shooting faster than the gold tips, i will chrono it again to know for sure, also when i first started shooting it seemed that my bow was really fast at about 15 yards, but at 20-25 it seemed the arrow would take off and they just put the brakes on.... it no longer does that after tuning but was wondering what that was all about maybe just high drag from improper flight.
another thing is the tiller, the top is closer by 1/8th an inch and the limb bolts are about a 1/4 turn from max, thats how it came, and to even the tiller you have to take like two turns off the top limb bolt, is that difference because the profile of the top cam is just a little different?
I's pretty hard to differeniate speed differences at 15 yards. I have a target bow that seems like it's really smokin at 15 yards when the chrono says 240+. As for the tiller? I'll have to check a couple of my bows with Hybrix/Nitro cams and let you know. I can't tel you the last time I checked tiller. I do remember a couple years ago checking one and it took about two turns to make a 1/8" change. That's the nature of parallel limbs. With more conventional limbed bows it might only take 1/2 turn to show 1/8".
Because this is a Binary cammed bow and the cams are slaved together I don't think it makes that much difference how the tiller is set except that it might change just how the bow holds (up or down) at full draw. If the bow has a tendency to aim low for you you can add turns to the top limb which will make it aim higher as compared to even tiller. You do have to pay attention to one thing. Changing tiller will change the nocking point height in relation to the rest. Personally, if you like the way it shoots I wouldn't mess with it. Just record what it is in case you make a change later and need to move it back to it's original setting.
1st of all a big welcome... I too moved from another brand to easton and it was right for me... Do a tune with broadheads and see how it works out...
Thanks for the welcomes. So when I was trying to flight tune the goldtip arrows with Muzzy fixed 3 blade 125gr broadheads I had 4 arrows and 6 heads, and out of all that I only had two combinations that would impact with the filed tips and the that did the cock vane was up and the cock blade was down. With the other two arrows and 4 other heads they would be slightly off or the cock vane in line with the cock blade and they would shoot about 10in high at 20 yrds. Are there advantages to using fixed compared to mechanical and 2 blade or 3 blade. What's really nice about those deep six broadheads I will get is that they dont add a bunch of lenght to your arrow since they slip over the shaft
After shooting Broad-Heads for some 30yrs, and testing to what works for me. I have used Slick Trick Mag 100g for Deer and other game and Razor Trick 100g for Elk. Both heads fly like my field tips out to 70 yards. I do a paper tune with the Broad-Head before heading out on any hunting trip and then a quick re-zero. This process has help my shoot placement.
Originally Posted by chevydyl
Best thing I can tell you is scrap the Gold Tips for now and play with them later. If the Injexions work then that's what to shoot. You paid for them. May a well put them to use.
As for mechanical heads, there's no doubt they will shoot truer with the Gold Tips. They have less blade area to cause planing, but if you can't get them to go with field points I doubt that it would get any better with broadheads. The fact that they fly all over the place tells me they are not the right spine or the bow just needs tuned better to shoot them. I would bet on the latter.
Sometimes things just work out hunky dory and sometimes it takes more work. And sometimes it can be downright frustrating. I shoot nothing but Gold Tip ultralites myself, for the speed, and have few problems with them, but I've found that I can shoot a lighter spine than the charts call for. I don't hunt any more and have physical limits (can only shoot about 45#). I have a fairly short draw at 26 3/4" and the truth is I should be shooting around a 700 spine. The ultralites only go to 600 so I work with them. To get perfect or near perfect bare shaft tuning with them I have to shoot a 125 gr tip, which negates the speed I want. One of these days I'll break down and get lighter spined arrows, but for now cash is getting tight. Maybe next year.
I can tell you that i will no loger use the gold tip arrows that i have, one thing is, the 330 spine easton arrows seems stiffer than the 300 spine gold tip arrows, and thats just bending them by hand. maybe cause the model of gold tips i have are of the cheaper variety. thanks for all the input