i know slick trick claim 4 blades have more cutting surface, but i see walmart sells mx 3's for 20 bucks but no mx 4's. is there really any difference or is it all marketing hype?
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i know slick trick claim 4 blades have more cutting surface, but i see walmart sells mx 3's for 20 bucks but no mx 4's. is there really any difference or is it all marketing hype?
4 blades would have more cutting surface, but, they would also have more surface area that needs to get through the hide before it can start doing damage.
One other thing I have noticed in shooting broadheads, the fewer the blades, the better the blood trail. While Slick Tricks have always punched a pretty good sized hole for me, a 3 blade like Wasp/Muzzy or Shuttle T's tend to leave a little bigger hole. The hide on an animal tends to gap open more the fewer slices that are put into it. I think the only exception to that is with heads like Magnus, Phat Heads, etc., that have the small bleeder blades. They cut a wider slice with the main blade, and still gape open very well.
I have found with the muzzy's that the 3 blade is a bit easier to tune than the 4 blade MX's. Just personal experience, your mileage might vary.
My mileage did'nt vary, have always found the 4 blade more difficult to tune. Begining with the bleeder blade for the old Bear Razorheads that I used on aluminum arrows back before screw-in inserts, had to cut off part of the ferrel, because it filled the slot that the bleeders went in.Quote:
Originally Posted by peace
Bye the way, Peace, my first target weight recurve was a Bear Tigercat, another bow I regret trading. :)
slick tricks may be the problem im having trying to tune then? bout four inches off at 20.
I've always had good flight from Slick Tricks. Are you sure there's no wobble at all when you spin them? I used to roll(spin) check mine, but didn't always see when there was just a very slight wobble. Once I started spinning them as they hung from a strong magnet, it made a differene. You can feel any wobble at all. Even got some that I an feel wobble in, but it's not enough to affect their flight.
Therein seems to be where most of the problems arise----broadhead alignment. Tuning for broadheads can be very frustrating at times and the fault isn't always that of the broadheads. Those little blades on the front act like wings an catch air as they fly. Whichever way they catch air is going to create a greater force and steer the arrow off course.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
First we have to start arrows that are spined properly for the bow's draw weight and draw length, and arrow length. This is where tuning comes into play. Arrows that are underspined are going to be real trouble, flying all over the place. Arrows that are too stiff will be better, but tend to shoot larger groups as the distance increases. Simple tuning procedures, including adjusting the bow's draw weight can improve flight. Don't get caught up in having to shoot a bow at a givn draw weght. Those limb bolts can be your best friend.
It's best to build your own arrows and careful attention to details is what it's all about. Such things as squaring the end of the inserts can help. I honestly think that because carbon arrows have a seam the spine can vary around the shaft creating havoc with broadhead flight as the arrow do bend coming out of the bow, If the seam (stiff side) isn't aligned consistently from shaft to shaft arrow flight can vary. The best ways to find the stiff side is to use a spine tester or float the shafts in a bath tub. How many guys do this? Nock fit on the string is one that very few people pay any attention to. If nocks are too tight it affects arrow flight, even with field points.
How many guys actually spin test their shafts? This should be done prior to arrow assembly and then checked afterwards. It's no secret that carbon arrows are not always straight. There are almost always a few in a dozen that need to be culled out of the batch because of inconsistencies in straightness and need to be removed from the good ones. Then there is spinning after assembly to ensure the broadhead is aligned with the shaft. It's not important that broadheads align with the fletching, but for consistency I like to have them all oriented to the same position. Just for this reason I do not use any of the super glues to install inserts. I like to use 24 hr epoxy so that I have time to align the blades after fletching the shafts.
Then, of course, there's the question of 3 blades, vs 4 blades. From experience I've found that it's easier to get 3 blades tuned than most 4 bladed heads. Cutting diameter plays a roll. The less surface area the easier it gets. That, for me, means a broadhead less than 1/1/4" diameter. A big 2" hole in the wrong place doesn't do much good.
So in conclusion, it's all these attentions to the little details that one must consider and be learned over time. Just how much a person wants to learn and excel is a personal matter.
I think the rise in mech. broadheads is related alot to people not being willing to spend some time tuning their bows. I start with a bare shaft tune and progress through a walk back tune and have no trouble getting either the Muzzy MX4 or my Magnus Buzzcut 4's tuning on two different bows. What I have found is the Muzzy's tend to not tune well if your spine is too stiff. Shoot 400 GoldTips with the Muzzy and 340 Axis arrows with the Buzzcuts. Both bows are in the 48-52lb range with 29" draw and arrows cut to 29"
I'm reading allot of you prefer the 3 over the 4 blade. This is just my experience; I've changer from the 3 blade WASP to the Slick Trick Mag 100g and the Razor Trick 100g. What a difference on Elk and South west Mule Deer. If your bow is timed and tuned the broad-head needs little to no adjustment. I just harvested a Mule Deer with a Razor Trick 100g and the shot was spot on @ 80 yards and the Deer went 15 yards. The shot went though the liver then the shoulder on exit. What a blood trail. I've harvested severely Elk and Deer over the last few years with Slick Trick and all of them were great exit holes and blood trails. For me this works, but you need to have your set up spot on. With the Razor you can see were the slice marks are, plus it a cut on contact.