Printable View
LOL, +1 Yeah, me too. The Bowmaster Protable press is one of the handist archery tools on the market. I never go hunting without mine in my pack, because of an accident I had once while riding my mountain bike, dumped the bike, derailed my my Nitrous camed Slayer, and had to give up all the climb I had gained. Was 5 miles up a mountain, when this happened.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lab Rat
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...erailedcam.jpg
I was looking at this portable press. Is there any issue with cam to limb cam pocket clearance to get the portable's T ends through? For the money it looks handy and I may have to own one by the weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by elkslayer4x5
I have used the Bowmaster portable on my Onza 3 and Alien Z. Just take your time and you won't hurt a thing.
Purchase the split limb adapters with it.
They work well on solid limbs too and give you more room.
DONE and DONE... Good thing for the adapters too. On the Z it is a real PITA to get the blocks through the limbs ahead of the cams... FC should be easier. Pressed the Z tonight to open the cable gap on the top cam. Much quicker and easier than backing limb bolts out 15 revolutions each.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker
Now the draw weight is right at 61 lbs, draw length is 27.25 using the stop and that gives a Let off of 75%. She is clocking anywhere from 294 to 299. I added 2 more speed nocks on each end of the cable and blew up the whiskers on the string... So I lost 34 grains there. it was jumpy until I opened the cable gap on the top string and played with the STS a bit and it has settled down some now. I have some limbsaver cable leaches to try... Wish the Z had some riser damping other than that push in piece of rubber below the grip.
Then string above the serving is frayng a bit too. It was a bit like this when I bought it and has gotten a bit worse. It would be where the nose touches the stringn when shooting just a kisser. The cables also relaxed somewhat after shooting a bit after wrapping them up 5 turns last night. I only wrapped one cable 5 more turns today to open cable gap on top.
I WILL get 300 out of it darn it....just to say I can...
Rootsy,
In your first post on this thread your draw was set at 28". I would get your draw lengthened back out from the 27" your set at now and that should push you over the hump. I am blessed or cursed with a 30.5" draw length so getting a little extra kinetic energy stored. You would get another 5 ft-lbs of KE input. How does the cam timing look? I pulled the string leaches off of my Z, because they just didn't seem to do much and only added weight to the string. But if I had a chronograph I would probably install something close to the speed nocks to optimize placement. I find that the Z is very quiet at 60 lb with the cams all wrapped up with a NAP apache stabilizer and everything lubed and tightened down. I am shooting a 420 grain arrow also which may quiet it down a bit. Believe it or not the loudest that this bow shot was due to my arrow nocks pinching in the D-loop. I was experimenting with tying in arrow nocks with a d-loop and the lower nock was moving up into the arrow nock. This did not allow the arrow to come cleanly off of the string and the bow sounded like a cross bow. I removed the bottom nock and immediately whisper quiet. I really need to learn more about desired center serving and nock fit.
27 really is my optimal draw length, very comfortable for me. 28 stretches me out too far, almost to the point where I have to lock my elbow and that isn't a comfortable shooting style for me. I can live with 27 1/4 but it is easy to relax from the wall at that spec. Opening the gap on the top cam seems to allow for that slight relax and not effect performance, at least that is what the chrono said. As you know, the min draw length of the Z is 28 inches with everything set @ nominal specs and this is why I ordered the FC with Nitro 1.5 cams. Wrapping the cables lengthens draw length and since I am under spec the only option I have is to use the stop to shorten my draw length which also decreases letoff... 61 lb peak, 16 lb @ full draw on the scale right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lab Rat
I may open the gap on the top cam a bit more and play with speed nock location and quantity.
Probably need to think about a new string too, if settings continue to creep.
The az is just a really really great bow!!! Im not planing on upgrading for quite some time.
Now that my shoulders are tired for the night....
I opened the top gap with 5 more cable turns. Top gap is just shy of 1/8 and bottom gap is half of that. Draw weight between 62 and 63 on scale and stop set for 27 inches exactly. Consistent 294 to 297 with 3 speed nocks top and bottom each. More seems to make it more inconsistent or slow down. It managed to fire back to back 301s (301.8 and 301.3) and did a 300.6 once afterward.
One thing I have noticed is that on a fast pass there is very little riser vibration, if any at all. On slow passes the vibration is significantly more. Not exactly sure what is going on to cause this yet. Twang the riser with you finger and it rings like a tuning fork... Well that is an exaggeration...
I also got rid of the lower nock set as it was pinching the nock. The arrow would jump just before the break in the draw cycle.
I will not buy a chrono, I will not buy a chrono, I will not buy a chrono.......hmm maybe I'll build one..
Time to tweak the Cougar?