Draw length

Okay guys,
I know it's been beat to death,
Finger tip to tip, and either minus 15 divide by 2, or divide by 2.5, either way i measure 29", been looking for 5x modules for the Firecat, BUT!!
If i shoot a release, that will or will not put me at 28-28.5 so I can comfortably sit in the valley with hand sitting pretty much on my cheek, and the nock close to the corner of my mouth, I've been reading that a little shorter D/L is more comfy, and easier to shoot than to long
Do i need to look for 4x instead to put me in 28" range to shoot with a release and a D loop
Derik

When I use that formula I come out with a 29" draw length. That will work fine for me if I shoot fingers like I do on my long bow and recurve. On my compounds however, I have found a 28" or 27.5" setting is best for me.

I know they say figure about .5" for the release, but I loose a good 1" to the release, if not more. Then the D-Loop at very least another .5" or more.

It's actually more acurate to take hold of the bow you are setting up, put on your release, tie on a D-Loop, and draw back and measure.

I know the shorter draw gives a slower arrow speed, but .5" shorter will also give you a more open draw with more arm clearance. Accuracy is better than fast. (I keep telling myself that)

Mike

all the loop and release do is give you a anchor point.if your release is long and your dloop is long it will mess with your anchor point.it does not affect your draw length.

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Originally Posted by gravedigger

all the loop and release do is give you a anchor point.if your release is long and your dloop is long it will mess with your anchor point.it does not affect your draw length.

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When I draw a bow back I anchor the crook between my thumb and index finger at the back corner of my jaw bone. When I shoot my longbow or recurve I can put the tip of my index finger at the corner of my mouth with the bow string at the first knuckle of my fingers.

When I draw back my compound bows I anchor at the same place, but my hand will be out with the trigger of my release by the first knucle of my index finger. The string is running through the jaws of my release, which are approximately 1.5" in front of the trigger.

When I measure my D-Loop that is tied just big enough so that my release jaws will easily clip to it with clearance from the knock of the arrow, it measures approximately .75".

AMO Draw Length is measured from the string at full draw to the front of the throat of the bow, +1.75". (the front of a bow is the side of the bow facing you)

I know I loose draw length.

I get into this every time I turn around. A proper solid repeatable anchor is paramount - it's there or it's not, plain and simple. There is no moving your anchor point to adjust for that of the bow's draw length or that which effects the bow's draw length - release, loop or whatever.

A proper anchor point is the same as your draw length is your draw length. Your release and loop in place your adjust the bow's draw length to fit you. The specific draw mod setting is not accurate by any means. Set the bow to 28" mod setting and the actual measured draw length may check 29 1/2".

I would example my Martin Shadowcat. The mods are set to 27" and the strings are twisted greatly to get a measured 28 1/4". My Pearson is similiar, but 27 1/2" mods and slight twisting of the strings to get the same 28 1/4".

How finicky can setting draw length be? I can feel 1/8 to 1/4" as soon as I come to full draw and anchor. Just recently I changed my loop on my Pearson. I have loops made up, all check the same length, but this length of install loop seemed long and got longer within a few shots. Once it held I ended up just snipping off the melted ball and forming a new ball. Presto. I would guess 1/8" or tad bit more was shortened from the loop. I was back in business and headed for Presley's First Annual Indoor 3D.

Check this link out on Achery Talk with Nuts and Bolts about micro adjust draw length.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1942715

Sweet fellas,
thanks groups, couple questions, anchor points .. ( I am a righty) left hand on bow is anchor 1, anchor 2 is the string if shooting fingers or release off string, or D loop correct?
As it sits it's D/L is 26" with 2x modules, full draw with release on string ( wish i could get you a picture) my right index knuckle sits just below cheek bone and left is slightly bent at elbow .. so way to short.. if i add 2" advertized mod draw ( 4x) to 28" it should stretch me to straight bow arm and a little farther back on my face but not quite to earlobe with draw arm, D loop should get me back to earlobe with draw arm and the cams should be right in the valley.. Does this sound correct to you
thanks
D.

Sounds like you're on the right track. The anchor points are points of reference that you can see or feel that lets you know that your form is in the same position everytime. Even if your form is technically wrong, and you use the same anchor points everytime, you'll have the same point of impact at a given distance everytime.

My personal anchor points (and it varies for person to person) is the knuckle of my release hand placed at the base of my jaw right under my earlobe, the tip of my nose kissing the string, and my sight perfectly positioned in the peep. Some people may use a kisser button, or an IQ sight, or different points of facial contact, its all about comfort and repeatability. :)

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Originally Posted by macflash

Sweet fellas,
thanks groups, couple questions, anchor points .. ( I am a righty) left hand on bow is anchor 1, anchor 2 is the string if shooting fingers or release off string, or D loop correct?
As it sits it's D/L is 26" with 2x modules, full draw with release on string ( wish i could get you a picture) my right index knuckle sits just below cheek bone and left is slightly bent at elbow .. so way to short.. if i add 2" advertized mod draw ( 4x) to 28" it should stretch me to straight bow arm and a little farther back on my face but not quite to earlobe with draw arm, D loop should get me back to earlobe with draw arm and the cams should be right in the valley.. Does this sound correct to you
thanks
D.

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Okay, each person has their own draw length. Me; Slightly bent bow arm elbow as I like the strong bow arm, as in a bit of push to the target. I never felt that a straight or locked bow arm elbow was correct, but some use it just fine. Suggest you look for some pics. ??? Pic below is that of Levi Morgan, perhaps the best 3D shooter in the world. note red and blue lines. Far from a straight arm. Basically, what works for you works for you.....
I shoot either a thumb or hinge release for all target usage. Here, my index and middle knuckles split my jaw bone near/on the corner of the jaw. The first bones of the index and middle finger from the knuckle also align to my jaw bone. This gives a most positive feel and good and solid anchor. With such, my bow's draw length is set to 28 1/4", which a 5/8" loop gets me close to shooting off the string with a index release, 29". With using a index release my first knuckle sets in the hollow behind the corner of my jaw. My thumb rides under and with the jaw bone, not touching the release head, but gives a satisfaction/security that the release head is aligned to my thumb/jaw line. How good is this method of my shooting a index release? I can shoot just as good if not better than using a thumb or release. I almost wish I never went to either.

Another of the pic. Note Levi's hand. It can't go up any farther. Yep, let that hand slip all the way up and things do go better. Another, see pics in my Post on the True Shot Coach, grip is correct.

Absolutely great responses,
as soon as I get it all together I'll let you know what I come up with ... and being computer semi-illiterate, I'll post some pic's for you guys to critique
Thank you very much, it does sound as though I'm on the right track, ... It's been so long since I've shot I was hoping it would be like riding a bike ..
close but not quite
Derik