How can this guy talk so much when he has nothing to say !?
You've all hit on, or at least around, the basic theme of the other thread I started; us 'commoners' have no conception of all the intricacies involved in bow strings, let alone the rest of the rig. The 'commoner' - let's use 'hobbyist' - buys a golf club, he/she expects to have to tweak himself, just as in archery, but doesn't expect to, nor is capable of 'tweaking' the club. Bet those deep into the sport can and do. We hobbyist expect equipment we buy to work out of the box, including the strings; we expect the Cam and bearings to be 'right'. Oh sure, we have to learn the basics of tuning and such, but to know all Sonny and you others know about the finer points and how to work them, is just beyond us. It's a hobby, and few take their hobby to the depth you all do; we just can't, work and family, time constraints. Sure, any can and many, I'm sure, do reserve their own strings; I even reserved the end of a cable, but to diagnose and be able to cure something like Sonny talked about in the starting post; uneven cable ends, re stretching them and all, that just takes expertise beyond what the typical 'hobbyist' has or aspires to have. Take it to a bow shop, IF you have one handy; the hobbyist would look at the strings that just 'blew up' on him, consider the cost of having a set of strings he'd still be worried about re-done, and he'd buy a new set. The set Sonny re-built that 'still have lots of shots left in them'; they'd be gone and Hutch'd be smiling. lol Same with cams and other components; not only is diagnosing a problem beyond us, the cure certainly is. Now, know this; a 'hobbyist' can have a good basic understanding of his equipment; enough to keep it running right IF it's built right to start with, he can be a whale of a shot and have a PHD in deer behavior, he can have freezers full of game he's expertly butchered, cut and wrapped himself. Ol' Hobbyist can be more expert in other aspects of the sport. He may enjoy other aspects as well as you all enjoy the technical aspects. You'll 'learn' what you enjoy. Anyway, as capable as I am to diagnose the weird wear in my Cougar's strings and the cut thread in the cable is that it may have to do with a short bow and longish draw length. That's as far as my string expertise goes.
As an afterthought; "At the shop I removed the serving of both cables and stretched the cables. The uneven cable evened out completely. Both were reserved with different serving material. All put back on the Shadowcat I lost about 5 fps, the different material robbing velocity, Still, 285 down to 280 fps was no big deal. The bow shoots great…"
Are you sure those are Hammerhead strings or are they, perhaps, Sonny strings that have held up so well? Sounds like all you used was the original cable material, the building back correctly from there on up was all Sonny.
Interesting, to me anyway, thread, btw; the old and new mix, I always find interesting. I have more time nowadays to delve deeper into my hobby, I just don't know if I have the capacity to learn much of what you all have to teach! lol..... o
Just came to me that title might be taken wrong; I'm jokingly referring to me; the rambler on'er!
Bow string Inspried by No longer impressed
I guess the above is a question. Yes, they are Hammerhead strings, two tone black and green, on a 2011 Martin Shadowcat. Removing the servings of the cable allowed me to stretch and even out the cable. I did untwist a bit so to make evening out easier. Now, stretching is no big deal and you dont't need a stretcher and you don't need 100, 200 or 300 pounds of stretch. I have a nail drove in the end of the counter top. I slip one end loop over the nail and then use a matching nail (same size a cam cable post) and pull the cable tight. Pulled tight I then sort of angle the nail down into the wood counter top and use the nail as lever to stretch just as best I can. The uneven cable evened out. The correct twists were put in to give the correct length of the cable. I moved the cable around to use a bar as leverage to keep tension of the cable so I could serve. That's all I did.
Originally Posted by otisT
Now, Martin's serving was unknown and I just grabbed what we had at the shop, .021" BCY if I remember correctly. Someone said Hammerhead strings have .019 and of Halo type. Whatever the difference I lost a bit of speed. Again, no big deal.
A spoon of serving material can go a long, long, (???) long, long ways and something of $15 or $16 a spool. So the center serving comes loose, separates and for pennys you can reserve it. Same with bows strings and cables. So the servings separate, big deal. Reserve them. Why shuck out $50 to $110 for a set of strings? If you mess up, big deal. Do it again. I do center servings for $8.00 and ends for $10.00.
Now, you only need to reserve what ends that need it. So say the center serving and one end and $18.00and you're back on the road. No ordering or waiting on a new set of strings.
Serving material and size can be known with a phone call.
Serving a peep is a piece of cake and just about anything strong enough and not as thick as a clothes line will work. I carry a length of .020" of BCY in my carry bag and a spoon of "serving" taken from my wife's sewing cabinet. Price tag is marked 29 cents. Yep, good ole Button & Carpet thread. Comes in colors and for the same price, 29 cents ;) I also use Button & Carpet thread for tying tied string nocks.
Yep, I'm cheap ;) But then normally I use .015" mini serving. I also have two spools 452X string material and it works great for serving in peeps. Dennis, on another site, said I should be good for about 5000 servings of peeps ;) Oh, I don't and I won't build strings, so why I'm using up the 452X. Black matches a lot of strings and green goes well with the camo type strings.
Now, Barry and I didn't learn all we know over night or within a year or two or three for that matter.
All is simple if you just take your time. Bow timed correctly or single cam oriented properly and brace height and axle to axle is specs are ball park. Close, but still ball park. Axle to axle is more based on the bow's listed max draw weight. IE, axle to axle maybe 1/4" short or a 1/4" long, but if max listed draw weight is present you're good to go. Cam oriented properly or cams in time axle to axle set to give listed max draw weight there is no need to adjust brace height, it is what it is. Charts show specs, but charts don't give what the industry tolerance is for each spec. Told to me first hand, axle to axle can have a tolerance of +/- 3/8". I won't tell you that the individual was a Hoyt Customer Service Manager. How'd I find out? New strings and trying to get to ata specs had my bow heading for 80 pounds. Took a "bench man" to find out the correct ata. Bench men were going by floor specs and someone screwed up writing the spec charts.
Of course, the +/- 3/16" tolerance is sure held a lot closer. And really amazing considering all the dimensions of everything, riser (length, angle), limb pockets, limbs.
Tiller and tiller tuning. Forget it. Rarely as in rarely ever is tiller a concern. And with parallel bows tiller isn't the easiest thing to measure. Tiller tuning is for someone who knows what they are doing and wanting bow reaction to suit them.
And if you've read some of my Posts, I R the black sheep of setting up a bow. Rule #1 - Don't drive yourself nuts with all the tuning procedures.... By some I throw my bows together. The only thing is my bows are accurate enough to get the job done and some just plain hate that ;)
Hey, guys. I made a correction. 3/16" not the 3/8" that I had. Went back and found Tom's email to me.