Bow tune check up
Not said enough is to check your bow. And "check" meaning thoroughly. Lord! Did I mess up and I guess through going nuts over the bare shaft/fletched arrow flying together. Anyway, I thought I contracted the "glitches" (refusing the term Target Panic). Right before last week end's State ASA Qualifier I had the "glitches" bad. Altered my grip, used different releases, and changed out orifices in my Super Peep. Nothing worked. I was left, I was right and then the bottom would drop out from under my arrow. Yeah, my arrow would just flop down a few inches for seemingly no reason at all. And then, wore out all seemed to go away to some extent. I figured I was coming out of whatever I had. Waiting for all to show up and hit the road, I was practicing on the Pekin range. Sort relaxed maybe, I was doing great. Got to the Qualifier and the "glitches" would show from time to time. Twice I had the bottom fall out from under my arrow for 5s. Some shots were so close, but then just a bit low of the X ring, though I did manage to catch 6 or 7 (score card is out in the car). Me, 4th place is not a stellar performance.
This week I went to work on my shooting. I still had arrows going left, right and falling for no dang reason I could find or think of. For whatever reason I checked my bow for timing. Shocked was what I experienced. The timing of my bow was off, it wasn't off due to string stretch. It off due to my limb draw stops advancing! Never! Never in my life have I seen adjustable limb stops advance. I've seen them slip, but slip backwards. The bottom cam timing tab looked a "mile" off, maybe a bit less than 1/8", and the top cam timing tab a little better.
So I backed off the draw stops and checked the timing. It was dead on. Timing a Pearson is just like timing a Martin, but Pearson has timing tabs out in the open. You can time the bow with a feeler gage, the tabs are that much out in the open.
And then you can set the draw stops by a feeler gage through the timing tabs. And that's what I did. Tabs out in the open, I used cellophane to slide between the timing tabs and the cables. I then adjusted the draw stops until when pulled into the wall the timing tabs would just hold the cellophane. About like adjusting lifters in a car engine. Stops set I went to shooting and all my "glitches" were gone.....
So check your bow from time to time and check it thoroughly....
Some might not understand "out in the open." Here's a pic...Red pointing to the timing tabs. Cams roll over and timing tabs touch the cables.
Good read thanks for sharing. Definitely am going to check my bows.
Famous last words; "My glitches were gone." The next day I couldn't hit consistently to save my life. I had the jerks, rushing the shot, couldn't settle on my grip. When I did put up good back to back shots I didn't know why I did and these would be off wanted point of impact. Went to my paper tune stand. Regular newspaper wasn't helping, so I loaded up the Guillotine with a roll of wax paper. Paper tears were terrible and moving the rest didn't help one bit. I had to be doing something wrong. I quit, loaded all up an went to the archery shop (closed, but the boss left me the key). Inside, no distractions, and things went better. Right off paper tears were just about perfect, not bullet holes, but darned close. I went with short French tuning, 9 feet to 30 yards. Right off the bat this proved I had center shot set pretty good. I did have to change the windage 10 clicks, .020". Get in the right light and I could hammer 20 yards great, 25 almost as good, but 30 yards I had trouble with. I plain just could not see a good sight picture. I was close, but no cigar. That and I caught myself gripping the bow differently. Hot and humid I quit for the day...
The next day I began with I would use a consistent grip, one that felt right, correct. With the bare shaft tuning attempt and all that followed I had screwed myself up. Bow in hand the way I thought it should be a cut the X ring with the first shot from 25 yards. From 20 yards the X ring took a beating. Back to 25 and the X took darn near the same beating. Cooled off a bit and then shot from 30 yards. Me felt good, nailing the X ring with the first shot, a bit low of the X ring with the second and then nailing the remaining 2 X rings. Cooled off again. Smoked a cigarette or two (ain't hiding the truth) and sipped on my ice tea. Crackers got one my ice cubes and was happy. 35 yards was next and the first shot got the bottom of the X ring. The second shot came in just low of the X ring. Grabbed a hand full of arrows and continued to tear up the X rings and bull's eyes. Not all Xs but dang close. No doubt if I kept shooting I could have shot a 300 from 35 yards. Stopped for a while and contemplated my grip. I had just been brain dead all along. Grip right, draw length felt right, bow felt right. Tried some of my shot up 3D centers and all proved good and if I didn't hit exactly I knew it was me, not the bow.
After that, waiting on the wife to come home, I shot off and on and it was pleasing. No stupid stuff.
So, that dang bare shaft tuning attempt and draw stops being off really messed me up.
Had heck of a shower this morning and it really drove up the humidity. So I'm sitting in the air conditioning telling what stupid stuff I got into.
Good stuff. Personally, I gave up on paper tuning many moons ago for reasons you mentioned. I have caught myself essentially changing everything (from anchor point to grip) in order to shoot a bullet hole through a piece of paper. I finally realized I wasn't ever going to be able to maintain the "perfect" form due to my build (played LB & I am built like one - 5'11 220...not fat) & nagging injuries I have accumulated over the years. So, I just make sure my bow is properly tuned & treat shooting a bow like pro golfers treat golf shots....consistancy is everything. Do it the same way each & every time = great results for me.
Sonny, I too must admit I have been known to smoke a cig or two.
Shooting paper has it's benefits. You think all is correct, but getting bad results, shooting through paper at different distance can tell you if your arrow is doing something stupid. When at the shop I shoot through paper all the way back from 30 yards. Again, if I haven't said it, I don't paper tune, just use paper to see what's going on... After French tuning and playing with the arrow rest to see if groups can be tightened up I don't care what paper tears look like...
And coming out of the "glitches" ain't easy. Again I was hit with lack luster shooting. Okay, I had picked up a bad habit. So yesterday I went to the club to work out some issues. Different layout lets the brain recover....or gets worse ;) So I got it in my head. "Strong" bow arm, strong, but comfortable. Elbow slightly bent (shock absorber active). Bow hand placement to riser correct. Anchor correct. Just tested to start, no shooting. We have a 20 yard target bale that has 9 Vegas targets on it. 9 tens and 7 were Xs. Went to the 3D target bag course. Ten 10s and a few Xs. Returned to the practice range. One shot from 30 and one from 40 yards, a tad low, but dead on left and right. The 50 yard target butt had a 50 yard NFAA target and someone had put a orange dot in the center of the X ring. 4 shots, 3 would make about a 1" group and one torn vane. 1 shot was in the top of the orange dot and 1 just out and left of the top arrow. The other arrow was left of the 2 just outside the orange dot. One of 4 (3rd arrow shot) was wide right, but just in the bull's eye (me being stupid).
Me was happy and called it a day.....