i have only been shooting for a few years now, and have become very interested in tuning. i read an article that told how to measure and adjust tiller. i performed the adjustment on my rage magnum w/fuzion cam and now have 3/16" gap at base of limb to limb pocket on upper limb and only 1/8" gap on lower limb does this mean it is time for new cables or string? i also have a slayer x that i have checked tiller (no adjustment needed) and the gaps from base of limb to limb pocket seem to be the same from top to bottom but it does have a hint of double bump (i believe that is what i saw it refered to on here) when the cams don't bottom out at the same time.
Is your "Rage" a sincle cam bow? I don't know about the Rage!
What cams are on your SlayrX, I assume it's a "shoot through" cable system?
I just put a half twist in/out of the cables pertaining to the cam that hits the wall/cables first/last!
Like if the lower cam hits the wall first, I'll untwist half twist at the cables ends on the top limb, they're attached to the lower cam...visa-versa depending on what the bows doin'...if that makes any sense!! :D
Don't be afraid to play with it!
sorry, yes the rage is single cam. the slayer has nitrous cams but is not a shoot through. (not real familiar with the shoot through system) can someone post a pic of the shoot through set up? i assume it is seperating the cables with a different kind of cable guide and the arrow goes between the two. sounds like a good deal. i will try to figure out which cam is hitting first and go from there. thanks for the information. d
To use the shoot-through system you would need a special X-module and new cables. The shoot-through eliminates the cablguard in eliminating the yoke cable. every side of the cam will hold two cables so they are not going to be in the way of the arrow.
Is your rage a split or a solid limb one?
Setting Tiller 101:
Originally Posted by dmar
Single cammed bows do not adjust for tiller in the same manner as doudle cammed bows. There are two ways to measure for tiller adjustment on single cams and that is to:
1. bottom out limbs and back out equall amounts (down side is for this to be absolutly correct limbs need to have the exact same deflection).
2. Tiller should be taken from a strait line from axle to axle. Measure just like you do on a double cammed bow exept the measurement is taken from either limb pocket to a string or a strait edge of a sort running from the top and bottom axles.
I'm not too familar with the rage, but with a lot of single cam bows the tiller won't always be the same at both limb bases because the idler wheel is not the same size as the cam. That being said, there are two acceptable ways to measure tiller with most single cam bows.
The first is to stretch a piece of string (dental floss) from axle to axle and measure the tiller that way. The other, and easier is to just bottom the limbs and back them out evenly to the desired weight you want. Then measure the tiller. Either works and the second one is easier.
Now are you ready for a long version of the X system? Here goes.
Martin's X system was devised to eliminate the cable guard and slide which produces side torque to the cables. How this is done is to mount a module just like you already have on the opposite side of the cam. Instead of two cables with a "Y" yoke there are four cables with end loops just like the string. One end hooks to the peg on the cam just like your standard model. The other end attaches to the little washer on that side of the bow at the limb tip, just like your "Y" does. So there are two cables on each side of the cam, criss-crossing as they do now.
To shoot and arrow you nock it from the front towards the back, but it's only a couple inches. This system allows forthe removal of the cable guard and slide. Everything aligns right down the middle of the bow. All cam lean can be adjusted out and stays that way through the complete draw cycle. It allows for easier tuning and with four cables there is less chance of any cable creep and the bow changing tune. And just less torque while drawing as the stress transfers from the string to the cables.
Most guys that shoot it, including me, absolutely find it the best system going and have a hard time parting with it.
Now, I hope I've explained this in a way that can be understood. I'd post a pic, but my digital camera crapped out on me.
thank you all so much. the rage is solid limb. i live in an area where my only source of hunting equipment is online or dadgum wal-mart. (no pro shops and 200 miles to gander or bass pro) i subscribe to a couple of magazines and sometimes (like case in point) they don't have enough room to clarify things far enough for a novice like myself. back to the workbench for the rage and thank you all again. i will be looking into changing my slayer into the shoot through system seems pretty great.
now have adjusted tiller properly and went ahead and cranked the old rage up to 70# or so (bottomed out and backed off one turn each limb) stretched string and measurment came out perfect. now my left elbow is a little sore from pulling harder but man does that arrow fly and WHAMMY when it hits the target! i didn't think i was going to be able to pull my arrows! will paper tune tomorrow when it is not so windy. (not very often in the OK panhandle)