bare shaft tuning with bengal

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Originally Posted by golfisserious

I am not an expert, I wanna say that right off, but bare shaft tuning... from what I have read, is mainly the best way to tune a bow for a "Fingers" shooter... as for a release shooter, vertical align after you plumb bob you rest to your knock point so both are in perfectly at right angles to each other... I.E.... your shoot string is perfectly straight up down... and your arrow is perfectly level horizontal in relationship to string. Then plumb bob a line, off your knock pt and make sure your rest is perfectly centered for that plumb bob line, when the string is parrallel (horizontally orientated).... then knock arrow, then split your arrow shaft with string, using one eye... and put your sites dead in line with string that is splitting arrow ALL THE WAY TO THE TIP...then shoot 6 arrows on a horizontal 1/2" wide black line... use some tape and put a marker to it... so you have a good target...chase arrow with sight until all six are in, or on that 1/2" line... don't cheat...

then using a tape measure... make sure that your string is even and exact distance...measure outside or inside string edge (not "middle"), adjust bottom limb bolt out until both measurements are the exact same, measure to where the limb meets the riser to the string, top and bottom... then draw a 1/2" wide line horizontally... shoot 6 arrows...adjusting sight till you are hitting line, then adjust the bottom limb 1/8 turn tighter at a time until your groupings are all in or on the line...

try it at 20yds after that... if you are shooting release leave the bareshaft and paper tuning alone... you can shoot a perfectly straight hole through a piece of paper at a 45* angle... if you don't believe me shoot it with any gun you have... it will leave a perfectly round hole no matter what angle you shoot from...

different broadheads have many different flight characteristics... a quality broadhead will group as tightly as your field pts... it just might be in a different area... typically most guys broadheads are different lengths than their field pts... and it changes the flight characteristics of your arrow, get a practice pt that is same length...

I shoot muzzy phantom broadheads, but use rage practice pts... they are nice and long like my broadheads...

but won't ever try killing a whitetail with an expandable ever again...I put one in the boilermaker this year at 28 yards and it stopped short of passing through after trying to break the exit rib...very lucky to collect a whitetail without a pass through one is...double lung 2nd year buck and it ran uphill, through a field with barely a blood trail still it started drowning... luckily I had a lighted knock on the arrow... sorry didn't mean to rant... rage broadheads suck...they themselves admitted it by making the "40KE" model

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yea...i gave up the bare shaft thing. The guys that use this technique and have the perfect form to get credible results..... i say go for it! For me i did almost the exact procedure you mentioned till i got within 1/2-3/4" from verticle and horizontal then brought out the fixed blades. With a minor amount of tweaking i got them to group with my field points except about 3" low. I said good enough, i can remember to hold 3" up. :)

I tryed Grim reaper mechanicals years ago but had 2 pretty serious problems. One, was that they are illegel to hunt with in the state of oregon and number2 they didn't deploy properly at my draw weight ,which was only 53# and even less now. In a sick sort of way ....i like fiddeling and tweaking with the fixed blades which gives great satisfaction when everything comes together and they start shooting like target points. It can be the ultimat challenge.:):)

not to rag... and like I said, no expert here... but 3" is just to far... if you accidentally take a 35yd shot when you think its 27yds, your gonna have major problems... unless you like trailing kidney blood...

start back at 10 yds, don't move to 20 till 10 is perfect, I mean perfect... perfecto...it sucks I know... but you will be way happier in the long run... be sure to do the plumb bob... and even more sure to check upper and lower height in relationship to limb/riser to string upper and lower, before shooting any arrows...

keep at it... I am no pro.. I am sitting in my garage, with the cars backed out of course, shooting corner to corner... max I can do in here is 18yds... and to this moment I am still tweaking at 15... worked on ten all day after... my broadheads shot different... right now, I can hole fields and broadheads in the same target with the same variance... I can shoot field, broad, field, broad, and can't tell the difference

good luck... keep at it... it will pay off

I have an older wersion of Easton's tuning guide. The info you seek is at the bottom of page 7.. My bad. What I also want to add is that maybe it's me, but every time I get a bare shaft planing to the right it's because the arrow is too stiff. I have that indication right now with my updated FireCat, shooting 27" GT-UL500 at 45#. Most charts say I should be shooting nearly a 700 spine and a 500 and even 560 spine plane to the right, just opposite of conventional wisdom.

being that alluminum is extruded and carbon is twisted/woven...there are a ton of differences between the two arrows... the stiffer the bow, the more this can be seen, I think it would be cool if they did one of those high definition TV shows in super super slow motion, showing the differences between the two and in between different brands and quality of carbon.

With carbon you are definately going to get what you pay for... with extruded alluminum, straight is straight...until it is bent... the biggest draw back... in the last three days of playing with my bow, I have run into the back of several alluminum arrows I bought because they were cheap and available in the spine I needed...and they were ruined/bent... with carbon, they will survive, or break... usually no in between...

Have you ever had a favorite carbon arrow, then 6 months or a year later ordered more of that same brand and type, and they shot different... well it might not be your bow... its most likely because those carbon arrows were made in a different "batch" than the first set you bought and thus they react differently...

Another thing i have noticed is that spin checking with broadheads before shooting with the alluminum arrows, I have never had a problem...with carbon arrows... I have had to try up to 5 different arrows to find one that spun perfectly true...probably more the cutters fault than the arrows... but I really don't know...

Every piece of equipment has its advantages and drawbacks... I know me for one am looking forward to when the arrows I like to shoot, finally show up in the mail... Easton Axis FMJ dangerous game 300's...Every deer I have shot with, I have collected...not to mention, they absorb so much vibration, you won't believe how quiet your bow is... that said, they are heavy, heavy, heavy... you can literally watch the arrow fall at shots much over 30 yds...but boy do they pack a punch

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Originally Posted by bfisher

I have an older wersion of Easton's tuning guide. The info you seek is at the bottom of page 7.. My bad. What I also want to add is that maybe it's me, but every time I get a bare shaft planing to the right it's because the arrow is too stiff. I have that indication right now with my updated FireCat, shooting 27" GT-UL500 at 45#. Most charts say I should be shooting nearly a 700 spine and a 500 and even 560 spine plane to the right, just opposite of conventional wisdom.

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I have been told that string weight... can cause the affect that you are talking about in your arrows... I don't know if its true... and it looks like you know a lot more about this than I do, but its a thought, so I am sharing with good intention...

good luck

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Originally Posted by golfisserious

I have been told that string weight... can cause the affect that you are talking about in your arrows... I don't know if its true... and it looks like you know a lot more about this than I do, but its a thought, so I am sharing with good intention...

good luck

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There are so many little things that can affect lots of things. That's what makes archery so interesting to me. There are just no rules set in stone.

I don't know if you mean any weight I have on the string or the weight of the string itself. I can say that almost all the strings I;ve used have been nearly identical so the only thing to affect the shot would be what's on the string. And the only thing I ever have on my string is a tied-on nock set and Fletcher or G5 peep.

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Originally Posted by bfisher

There are so many little things that can affect lots of things. That's what makes archery so interesting to me. There are just no rules set in stone.

I don't know if you mean any weight I have on the string or the weight of the string itself. I can say that almost all the strings I;ve used have been nearly identical so the only thing to affect the shot would be what's on the string. And the only thing I ever have on my string is a tied-on nock set and Fletcher or G5 peep.

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a good example would be the difference in weight between monafilament serving and nylon serving... monafilament being heavier...its a way to make up for slightly ill spined arrow choice...or if you are on the edge of choices and can't seem to get it just right... if your curious and have some extra crimp on knocks... just add an even amount of knocks above and below your d loop... increase weight will make arrow act stronger, decrease weight... ie remove strands of bow string and the arrow will act weaker.

A friend of mine owns a traditional archery shop and instead of selling people new arrows every year as their bow muscles get stronger, he just adjusts the string weight with serving up to a point... I don't know what that point is...its just what he does.

look on{Compound bow tuning} on u tube ,they have very good demonstrations on there.