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Im shooting the Martin Bengal (2010), draw lenth is 27 1/2, my draw weight is 70 lbs, arrow spine is 340 and my broadheads are 125 grain muzzy's. When my broadheads are on my arrows they shoot very high and curve to the right...what do I do to fix this?
If you can rule out fletching contact, you need to adjust your rest and nock point.
For the rest adjustment, walk-back tuning is the easiest solution.
You need a big target and at least 50 yrds of range.
Using field points, start at 20 yards and shoot one arrow at the bull.
Move back to 30 yrds and shoot one more while aiming at the bull with the same pin.
Move back to 40 yrds and repeat.
Then at 50 yrds.
Your arrows will each hit below the prior one. However, they will move to one side of the target as you get farther away.
Move your rest the opposite direction, adjust your pins to compensate and repeat the entire process, until your arrows form a straight line below the bull.
For the high impact problem, you need to either raise your nock point, or lower your rest. That can be done with bareshaft or paper tuning. Sometimes creep tuning works too.
I would first do what copterdoc said. I too had the same 'problem' with Muzzys for some reason. They just did not hit same POI as the field tips. And I used Muzzys for years without any problems. However 2 years ago I switched to Magnus Stingers and Stinger Buzzcuts and I have to say that these broadheads hit exactly the same POI as my fieldtips. The only drawback with them is the aluminum ferrule is brittle and will crack. But they do have a lifetime guarantee so you just send it back for a new one.
Another broadhead I have been hearing good things about are the Slick Tricks. Never any personal experience but heard good reports. Very similar to Muzzy but without the long ferrule.
Magnus Stingers and Buzzcuts are pretty tough.!!!
Hey Chris your broadhead may be be a little heavy for a 340 gr arrow. YOu may want to go down to a 100 gr broadhead. You could also make the arrow a little stiffer and stay with the 125s. That is my thought
I'd say work with the arrows you have. It sounds like you're in need of Easton's Tuning Guide. You can get a copy at www.eastonarchery.com, www.huntersfriend.com, or there is a "sticky" at the top of the Tuning section on www.archerytalk.com (follow the links). This should explain pretty much everything you need to know about broadhead tuning.
Right now it sounds like your nocking point (loop) is too low. Raising this would make the arrows shoot lower. It may also help with them shooting to the right, but you won't know this till you make the proper adjustments.
If the arrows still plane to the right you may have to move the rest to the left in small increments till field points and broadheads are hitting together. Usually arrows planing to the right indicates an underspined arrow, but every once in a while it's just the opposite. If moving the rest doesn't work you can try centering the rest as well as possible and turn the bow weight up or down a turn and see if this helps.
As for the Tuning Guide---read it before you do anything. Pay particular attention to the next to last paragraph at the bottom of page 7. A lot of guys miss this important info.
I agree with the above comments.
1. Getting the right weight brodhead for your poundage and arrow weight/spine is the first thing. But I assume you are shooting the same weight field points and they are flying ok.
2. There is a TON of discussion about B/H's on AT. I find broahead characteristics fasinating. Teh discussions on AT are worthy of some time. IMHO, confidence in broadhead choice is critical to enjoyable and successfull hunting.
3. Personally I take the view that a B/H should impact the same point as the field point without "broadhead tuning." I used to shoot 125 gr. Thundeheads. A great head out to 40 yards and took a nice bull with one, but alas, I didnt have enough confidence in them as they did not impact the same point as my field tips at all distances. So I started looking around and asking friends.
4. I concluded that I wanted to stay with non-mechanical and ultimately decided on 2, the Slick Tricks and Magnus Stingers ( like the idea of the buzz cuts too). I can say that with my last bow they impacted no differently than my field points and are both tough broadheads with pretty good cutting diameter. I haven't tested them with my new bow yet, but given proper arrow spine and weight, I believe I will have no problems.
Good luck!
for years I always shot my fieldtips until just before hunting season then had to adjust my sights for my broadheads (of the same weight). But now that I've learned to tune my bow properly my broadheads and field tips hit exactly the same POI.
The walk back method is good for tuning your bow for your field tips. A variation is to shoot 3 arrows at 15 or 20 yds, then move back to 30 or 40 yds and use the same pin. If your longer yardage arrows hit left, you need to move your rest in slightly (if you're right handed). If they hit to the right, move your rest to the left.
And once you have your arrow groups directly under one another then its time adjust your sights. Once your sights are adjusted its time to fine tune your bow to your broadheads. (My advice is if you are a relatively good shot, you should shoot your broadheads at a target with multiple aiming points and shoot only one or two broadhead tipped arrow at each dot. If your BHs hit high, raise your nock point higher or lower your rest (only small increments - 1/32" at a time). Same with the BHs hitting left or right. Move the rest in the opposite direction.
A great guide for tuning is the Easton tuning guide. You can download it and save it for future reference.
Muzzys are a great broadhead and I've used them for years. But the last 2 years I have been using 100 gr Magnus Stingers with excellent success including a 1000 lb bison. And they are accurate enough to allow me to take a bobcat thru the chest at 35 yds (which is a relatively small target). I've also heard good reports on the Slick Trick BHs. These are basically the same design as the Muzzy but the ferrule is shorter due to the more weight as it is all steel. Also the trocar tip of the Muzzy is replaced by the integral tip of the steel ferrule. The blades are inserted through machined slots and held in place by a washer which holds them in place between the ferrule and insert when tightened. These BHs fly great.
I would recommend that unless you need more weight on you arrow because of spine issues, I recommend you go down to 100 gr.