Printable View
ok im really having problems tuning my alien.....
its mostly my centershot. while frech tuning my rest ends up way over by my riser. my best luck has been just eyeballing everything and shooting. i can do better groups at 50 yards with my cheetah than i can at 20 with my alien. talk about frustrating!!!!
Justin, give some info; Bow set and arrow set up. If the arrows are not compatible then you will have problems.
French tuning can be confusing to begin with. Tell us what you did.
Here's the step;
Sight in at 9 feet, arrow consistently hitting within a small circle.
Don't move the sight.
Move to a distance that will allow arrows to hit near the circle your shooting at - this height wise. This distance may be 50 yards and further. Or have vertical line drawn and not really worry about where the arrows hit vertically.
Again, you don't move the sight.
Shoot a group...ignore fliers or call outs. Shoot another to insure horizontal placement of arrows.
Which ever way the group is off, move the rest a tiny bit the other way. If left move rest to the right, a tiny bit.
You then start over. Sight in at 9 feet and follow the steps. Finish is hitting dead center at 9 feet and whatever distance you use. Again, you never move the sight except when starting the process over.
Great advise Sonny he'll be hitting perfect,;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SonnyThomas
Is there some advantage to tuning this way over paper tuning?
Paper tuning is step in tuning a bow for center shot. Some may use just paper tuning and be happy. French tuning is refining center shot to perfection. The longer the distance you can shoot the more precise center shot can be set. Always the first step is 9 feet and set the sight. When testing for center shot error, with the same sight setting and if your bow will allow the arrow to hit a target (bale) at 90 yards, use 90 yards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehunter
French tuning is not necessary for everyone. Long distance shooters would more benefit, Outdoor target (60 yards) or Field (80 yards). Walk Back tuning will suffice for most archers. There is also a modified French tuning that is closer up. These tuning procedures help find and correct center shot error that some people could otherwise live with.
I think Field more benefits from French tuning and I'm sure there are other archery events. I say Field because Field has ranges as close as 20 feet and as above, out to 80 yards.
well it was rainy and crappy today, so i didnt shoot....
as far as aarows, im shooting gold tip 7595 hunter xt. should be 340 spline, and by what ive read should be about right for deflection. (30and 9/16 long, 100grain feild points, and 410 grn ttl aarow weight)
i moved the apache over to the x, and the cord is adjusted ok. one thing ive noticed that on these particular cams the shooting string runs in the track farthest from the riser... so i started with my center shot out just a bit from the center to compensate.... but what im ending up with is my aarow, string and sight not being inline when everything is sighted. and some dirty aarow flight. (everything is paralelle, but my aarow hits left)
also it was really cold last time i attempted to tune. affected my consentration and my "zone"
and my target is mostly shot out. leaving me with about a soccer ball sized spot i can hit without a complete pass through and an aarow in the yard.
after 3 in the yard, i looked a little for them, got frustrated, put my stuff up and decided a target should be at the top of the list, then tuning...... ~end rant~
Try starting out with your rest set so at brace the center of your arrow is 7/8" out from the bridge between the berger holes, arrow is centered on the berger holes and nock set on the string is square (level).
At Brace - everything probably wont look like it all lines up (arrow will be pointing right, sight will be a bit left) but it should be very close to giving you good arrow flight when you shoot.
What Spiker said, not always, but most of the time, string aligned to the groove in the top cam/wheel, the arrow may show a just a tiny bit to the inside and when looking at the sight pin it will be a bit out from the string.
Of all the bows I've had only one or two ever had the sight pin directly in line with the string when finished tuned.
Ok, Sonny and Spiker have me on tuning, but I can help with the arrows in the yard. lol I also had a pass through problem when I switched to a Firecat last year. I bought a cheap metal detector, and just sweep the yard behind the target with it. It's already paid for itself in found arrows. I hear a beep, then take a dull knife, cut through the dirt about 3-4 inches deep in a foot long line between the beep and the target.
i hear it works really great with aluminum aarows.... havent tried in my yard but my buddys has too much iorn floating around in it for it to work! he uses a garden weeding tool......
but yeah..... havent been back out....
:D