Just Some Thoughts

About a month ago I changed arrows from a GT UL-600 and got out the big GT 22 series for cutting lines. I didn't do a thing with the bow---no extra tuning; just moved the sight to compensate.

Well, I was at the club last night practicing. For once it wasn't too busy so I got the chance to punch a few holes in paper just for giggles. I've been meaning to tune this thing a little as my experience with bare shafts of any size hasn't been good.

OK, so I walk up to the paper and punch three holes in it. Lo and behold it was almost perfect bullet holes. By almost I mean they were just slightly nock high and to the right, maybe about 1/4".

Here's the bow/arrow setup:

2010 Alien Z w/ Hybrix 1.5 cams
42# at 27 1/8" draw length
GKF Star Hunter rest

Arrow are GT 22Pro series
27" shaft w/ standard 22 nocks
Inserts and 125 gr Saunders points
4" Trueflight feathers

The arrows are a 300 spine which at my draw and arrow length should be good up to about 80#, and way way stiff for this puny 42#. I've had similar results with other bows in the past, but you guys tell me. Does this defy logic or what?

It sounds like the Z is way more forgiving on spine than the X. My X will tolerate underspined by a bit but when i go to an overspined arrow it gets a mind of its own and wont paper tune AT ALL.

Defy logic? No, just confirms what a lot of us found out. Not just that too stiff a spine will fly and fly well, but that tuning is also a frame frame of mind.

I some testing going from CXL 250s to CXL 150s and couldn't tell the difference in accuracy and got a good amount of more speed.

The little bit high and little right, or left for that matter, was something much desired just a few years back. Mmmm? Well, maybe 8 to 10 years back. Here, the want was to have the arrow correct itself the same way each and every time. Hey, it worked back them, so why not now?

Us that are lazy switch from large diameter to thin diameter and never think much about it. We just sight in and keep on shooting. Now this will normally make the arrow impact low. Going from thin to thick does create a problem though. One thing I don't want is a low nock tear which may cause fletching contact with prong or lizard style rests or too much downward force.

I had this happen during a Outdoor State Championship. On the second day something slipped and my arrows was crushing down through the rest. I didn't notice anything wrong except being off for distance and this during practice so I just set new grid marks. During the competition I saw that my arrow was porpoising and the cock vane was getting wrinkled. The only thing I could do was shoot with the best form I could and let the chips fall where they may. I lucked out and earned a 3rd place in Senior Freestyle.

What was your max distance? Alsowould be interesting to see how it shoots broadheads? at he end of the day... If it works dont fix it!!!!:D

I would also point out that some of the finer Field shooters at one time used them log X7s, like 2512 and up. If this didn't have me rolling me eyes, those tiny 1" feathers did.

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Originally Posted by SonnyThomas

I would also point out that some of the finer Field shooters at one time used them log X7s, like 2512 and up. If this didn't have me rolling me eyes, those tiny 1" feathers did.

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Some of the finer Field Shooters? I used to be one of them around these parts--back in the mid to late 70's. Haven't shot field since 1980. At that time I shot a Jennings Arrowstar at 51# (holding 27#) at 27" draw and was shooting X7 1614 shafts at a very blistering speed of 232 fps; 12 fps faster than Jennings said was possible.

Never did use those big line cutters for field, but did shoot 2512 for indoor spots. I never could get used to shooting a Vegas face. I guess I have this aversion for yellow. I think 591 was my highest score ever with about 588 being my norm. I just liked being outdoors better.

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Originally Posted by bb11

What was your max distance? Alsowould be interesting to see how it shoots broadheads? at he end of the day... If it works dont fix it!!!!:D

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I only shot one distance, about 4'. I was short on time. I'm not a big paper tuning fan. I usually bare shaft tune, but the last couple Martin bows I have had just won't bare shaft well. As for paper tuning? I figure if a shaft is leaving the bow straight it shouldn't matter what distances you try it at.
Either it flies straight or something else is going on.

I'm going to do some studying and maybe try French tuning. I could possibly try broadheads although I don't hunt any more. It could still be a useful tuning tool. I'm always open to new ideas. I might be old, but I'm not so set in my ways that I can't learn.

Biggest problem right now is the weather. I like to do my testing outside where lighting makes it easier to see what's going on. I'm not real crazy about shooting indoors, but that's about all that's happening right now with temps in the 20's and 1/4" crust of ice on top of the snow.

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Originally Posted by bfisher

Some of the finer Field Shooters? I used to be one of them around these parts--back in the mid to late 70's. Haven't shot field since 1980. At that time I shot a Jennings Arrowstar at 51# (holding 27#) at 27" draw and was shooting X7 1614 shafts at a very blistering speed of 232 fps; 12 fps faster than Jennings said was possible.

Never did use those big line cutters for field, but did shoot 2512 for indoor spots. I never could get used to shooting a Vegas face. I guess I have this aversion for yellow. I think 591 was my highest score ever with about 588 being my norm. I just liked being outdoors better.

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About the same here, haven't shot Field since 2005 or 2006. Still, arrow wise I've shot nothing but CXL 250s regardless of event since 2004.

And that dreaded Vegas face, I've got to practice up. Chad wants to go to the FITA State Championship. Of course right now the only way we'll get there is by snowmobile or dog sled.