I do tie nocks?
But I have seen brass nocks on many bows.
How many still use brass nocking points?
How many use tie nocking points?
Hutch:cool:
Printable View
I do tie nocks?
But I have seen brass nocks on many bows.
How many still use brass nocking points?
How many use tie nocking points?
Hutch:cool:
Hey Hutch, still use brass nocks, much easier to move around when tuning. Found the speed loss is not enough to worry about. Also, my loop is tied under my nock point.
So do you use a Torque-less catfish loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by gibson 787
Tried the catfish loop, but settled on just a normal loop. I do however adjust the tiller on my bow and always end up with the top limb eased off a bit.
Thats why I asked about the catfish loop. But you are way a head of me:oQuote:
Originally Posted by gibson 787
So the tiller adjustment does well for you?
Hutch
A properly tillered bow makes the draw cycle and the hold, not to mention arrow flight so much better.Quote:
So the tiller adjustment does well for you?
I don't use either brass nock or tied nocking point - just have a d-loop with the gap set to match my nock's width. Seems to work well for me.
If it works for ya Rocky, it's all good!
On my hunting bow and one 3D bow I use a single brass nock with cushion button - index release.
On my target and other 3D bow I use tied string nocks - top is nocking point, bottom spaced .040" below arrow nock to prevent nock pinch. Loop is tied outside the of the tied nocks. Thumb and bt releases.
I've used a single top tied nocking point and tied the loop below the arrow nock - spaced as above to prevent nock pinch.
I also use the D-loop w nock between. Plenty accurate for me.
as far as a "properly tillered" bow. Could someone elaborate on that? I've always set even tiller. Is there an advantage to a different approach?