THANK YOU for the responses... Being a newbie to the sport this issue seems a bit complicated for me. Ive gotten everything from different rests, arrow stiffness, cam lean, form, ect. I really apprecite the help & ill keep you posted after the hooter. Itd be nice to single out weather its equipment or operator error. Thank you all so much
You're very welcome, and among friends here. We're all waiting with baited breath for the results of the hooter! :)
Thank you all so much
I say its the bisket...:rolleyes:
I'd say the same but I owned one and I could robin hood all day long with it. They only loose there accuracy after 40 to 50 yards:eek:
Originally Posted by ElkSlayer
I have that same bow just got it a few weeks ago and its dead on out to 40yds,do all my own work too.Still using stock strings and cables.
These bows are really user friendly,and easy to tune.With everybody here it shouldnt be to hard to get you shooting bullets.
If it's not the rest, I'd bet it's bow placement in the hand, torquing the bow. I was running into the same problems on my FC400 this year. The hand placement I have used for years didn't go well with the new riser design. The rest wasn't lining up anywhere near center to get bullet holes on paper. Walkback tuning was inconsistent, just nothing right. Ended up moving the bow slightly farther out towards my thumb, and now it's shooting like I would expect. Getting as good of groups at 70 yards as I was at 20 before I changed the hand placement.
I need to make sure you are using the same "left" I think you are.
When you say left, do you mean closer to the riser?
If so, your bow is perfectly "normal". They ALL do that, unless they have a shoot-through cable system with balanced three track cams.
The reason is, that the string moves towards the cable guard side of the bow at full draw. At brace, it moves away from the cable guard side of the bow.
It's called 3rd axis shift.
If you don't like that, you can buy a discontinued Martin bow with Nitrous cams, install the X-mods and 4 cables (if it doesn't already have them) and be happy.
Don't consider that Firecat a $500 peice of junk quite yet.
Originally Posted by upland woodiw
Did you try different rests and/or arrow stiffness, or is that only some of the advice given?
I don't claim to be any sort of expert, but just want to throw something out there, as I have had a bow and/or specific bow set-ups that didn't do what they were suppose too.........I've had to make adjustments exactly opposite of what is common or had to use arrows stiffer than was typical.
In your case, the 400 arrow (guessing 28-29" length?) is probably suppose to be the so called proper spine for your set-up, but I would at least try re-centering the center and shoot a 340 spine arrow of same length thru paper to see what happens.
Or back off the draw weight 4-5lbs and see if that makes a difference with your current arrow? Either way should rule out arrow stiffness issues.
I'm not a whisker biscuit fan, only because I just don't like the thought of my vanes intentionally being fired though something on purpose every shot.....but that's just me and my peeve. I know a lot of people love them, including a friend on mine that I practice and shoot 3D with.
I don't know what distance you paper tune at, but try at 6, 9 and 12ft and see if there is any difference.
Also don't remember reading how far off is it when rest is more in line?
Again just my opinion, but paper tune is a starting point and a well tuned accurate shooting bow doesn't always punch perfect bullet holes up inside 15ft or so.
Once I have my bows tuned to where fld points and fixed blade broadheads are flying clean and hitting the same at 20yds and out, I never recheck paper tune as it only frustrates me if I see it off again.
I would also look to the biscuit, aren't they prone to being tourque senitive? Of coures, I shoot off prongs, and so know nothing of biscuits except I prefer mine with gravey, and a few onions. :D
Yes you are right,ive used them biscuits before and they are very sensitive to any kind of torque.Not saying there bad rest just sensitive.
Originally Posted by elkslayer4x5
If i was the OP i would try a QAD,code red,or something along them lines,more forgiving and they work great in any condition's.