I've got that grip on an '07 (?) Pantera. Since then I've bought a Rytera Nemisis and a Bowtech Invasion. If I could convert them to the Thermal Elite grips, I'd do it in a heartbeat.
It's my...
Type: Posts; User: bbjavelina
I've got that grip on an '07 (?) Pantera. Since then I've bought a Rytera Nemisis and a Bowtech Invasion. If I could convert them to the Thermal Elite grips, I'd do it in a heartbeat.
It's my...
For the past parrallel limbs you want the Nite Hawk portable press. Check the vidieos on their website.
I have it as well as the Bowmaster and Ratchetlock. Once I bought the ratchet I never used...
Gramps,
Don't know your skill level with tuning and surely don't want to offend, but my limited experience with the Nemesis is that it can easily be loud, or with just a little more work, can be...
There's always the possibility of a bad bearing from the bearing manufacturer. The Nemeisis hasn't been out long enough for anyone to wear out the bearings. Consider this --- for each shot the...
A .177 pellet dropped in the hole before the setscrew works well. I'm sure there is a size of shot (maybe BB) that would work even better. Surely no chance of damaging the limb bolt --- like if you...
If the cams are not synched properly your bow will probably be nosiy. With the proper synch --- whisper quiet!
Best of luck to you.
Somebody needs to figure out how to put the battery in the front of the shaft!
Any Hoyt shooter not in the know is gonna have to do a double take on the Nemeis. And then they want to argue with you that Hoyt invented the trussed riser!
I've had biscuits on at least three bows for a number of years. This year they're all coming off. They are not foolproof like I and so many others have thought.
My buddy and I have made two trips...
Thank you, archerx7.
I guess it's older than I remembered. Heck, so am I.
I appreciate the caution. Just hope I'm wise enough to heed it.
I'm wanting to put Cat/Hybrix cams on what is now a single cam Pantera.
Where do I start with string and cable lengths?
What should I expect out of my (now) 60# limbs?
If you're having trouble finding the special setscrews, you may want a cheaper alternative.
Drop a airgun pellet or an appropriate sized lead shot in the hole then put a regular setscrew down hard...
That's the reason I swapped the cam. Thanks for clearing that up. Now, if I can just remember it.
Kinda between a rock and a haard place there. I've wiggled myself into a corner whereby if I get rid of it I probably have to give it to my nephew. Loaned it to him for one durn day and he went and...
Thanks for the thought, but, the problems is --- it's on its third set of limbs. Alas, no sticker. Poor planning on my part.
Anyway, I seem to remember it being an '07. Originally had MPro cam...
but, I bet they're a lot smarter than me. Figuring out what draw weight and length you'd have has to be a crap shoot. And where to start on string and cable lengths?
I've got a Pantera (08 or...
I believe that a "state quarter" will fit nicely in the hole once the medallion is removed.
Been wanting to do that for better than a year, but it's far easier to sit here and drink another rum...
Some bows (not aware that any are Martin) have transverse grooves on the idler. Since it easy to see that there is some amount of "slip" between the string and idler, there may be a risk of string...
There's a lot more to a bow than just the published specs.
Like;
Do the cams/idlers have bearings or bushings?
Are the limbs laminated or not?
Is the riser cast or forged?
What material for...
Needing a little more let-off. Everything else is set up well. Right now the modules are hitting the cables just as the drawstop touches.
I'm thinking I need to un-twist the cables (one or two...
I swapped out mine for an M-Pro 2 to get the draw stop. Very simple straight swap with no problems.
Besides the drawstop, the only difference was that the "2" was black whereas the original was...
Thanks to each of you.
There are "super glue" type wicking glues available. At least one used to be marketed by Loctite. With a thin bead placed over the crack, they actually wick down into the crack and bond it back...
Maybe I should sober up and watch it again! I'm thinking I know, but what was the point in marking the modules 1/2" from the end? Should that be the tangent point at full draw?
I think I've got it now, and truly appreciate the help.