Bought a 2007 Martin Cheetah e few weeks ago and to my surprise they STILL have that crappy placement of the module screws, same as on my older Martin Altitude, it really sux that you canīt change modules without putting the bow in a bowpress or pressing the cable down to get the screws out. Thought that it would get fixed with the new M-pro cam but still it is the same placement right behing the limb
Have also a bowtech tech 29 and a bowtech extreme vft where you DONīT have to do anything else then loosen the screws and change to whatever module you need without almost killing urself by yanking the cable or having a bowpress to fix it with.
This I think shouldnīt be any problem for the martin techs to fix for all coming bows that have module to change the drawlenght.
You can back the limb bolts out far enough on Martins to take enough tension off to disconnect the strings, you don't need a press but I understand your point.
The problem is that these cams go on many bow types. What you propose means special cams for different limb angles.
The screws are behind the limbs on my Phantom II Dyna but I know I've heard of people with other Dyna equipped bows that don't have that problem.
It may work for a company that only makes bows with one basic limb angle but Martin makes all kinds of bows for different purposes and tastes.
Well shouldnīt be any problem to move these two bolts so that they donīt come behind the limbs on all bows, regardless of the limbangle.
i have the same on my altitude as on my cheetah, and friends scepter4 and also seen the same on the jaguar, could have accepted it if it was only one model or year, but ALL the martins I have seen has the same crappy placement
It might be OK to have the screws located outside the limbs if they only made ONE bow with that cam on it and only in ONE configuration. Remember, Martin has different limbs and different limb angles on a bunch of bows. Maybe there is a bow out there for 2007 that has no problems with thie screw location. I know that ALL my Martin and Rytera bows I shoot have no issues getting the screws out without being in a press.......
since you don't need a press to disassemble a Martin this seems pretty minor of deal to be complaining about. But since Martin makes such a quality product some have to come up with something to say is a problem. Once I got my draw length set the screws don't need to come out anymore.
Well it doesnīt seem to be just one model/cam/year/limbangle since the altitude is a 03 ith fuzioncam, the cheeetah a 07 with m-procam and the scepter4 07 with dual cam, and the jaguar 07 with dyna cam and they donīt have the same limbangle either. I shouldnīt have to take the string off to change module.
Originally Posted by LeEarl
Yet I can adjust my '05 dual cam Phantom II all through its range with no problem.
I just removed both screws on my '07 Bengal M-Pro with a squeeze of the cable (and it's presently turned up to 72lbs). I'm amazed that since the Bengal can do that the Cheetah can't, but that just proves that you can't design that "feature" for all bows (I sure hope that's not what you meant by "almost killing urself by yanking the cable").
Another fact you don't seem willing to consider is that what you propose would require a module change. All Martin bows using the F mods (that's all the way back to '99) can use the same mod packs.
That's pretty handy for dealers and those of us with packs. Since it's handy for the dealers it's handy for those with older bows looking to change their draw length.
That's a lot of bows, limb angles and cams.
I'm trying to figure out why you need to remove your string. I don't seem to recall ever having to do that on my Phantom II Dyna. Once you back the limb bolts out it's very easy to rotate the cam.
Last edited by Myk; 03-18-2007 at 02:30 PM.
Jimmy, sounds like you are really making a big deal out of nothing .""For Some reason??.I never had to take a string off to change a mod ....
well the only thing you should need to do is unwind the two module screws and replace the module and put those two screws back and go on shooting without limbbolt unscrewing or any other jerking the cable,string or whatever here and there...
itīs not a BIG problem but still very annoying
How often are you changing your draw length?