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Thread: 10 Yard Tuning Method (For Sight and Rest Alignment)

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    Default 10 Yard Tuning Method (For Sight and Rest Alignment)

    Here is a method I used called the 10 yard tuning. It will only take a couple shots and you will know if your sight or rest needs to move.
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    Hang a target face so the bullseye is at your shoulder height.

    Put a nail at the top, and hang a weighted string, so the string splits the bullseye in half.

    Now, start at 9 feet. Yup, just 9 feet.

    Fire a field point arrow.

    If the field point arrow misses the string to the left, then move all the pins to the left. (Adjust the entire sight housing).

    If the field point arrow misses to the string to the right, then move all the pins to the right.

    The goal is to nail the string perfectly. You want your field point arrow to be exactly below the center of the bullseye.

    Now, go back to 10 yards.

    Fire a 3 arrow group. Find the center of the arrow group.

    If the center of the arrow group is to the left of the string, move the arrow rest to the right.

    If the center of the arrow group is to the right of the string, move the arrow rest to the left.

    Goal is to have the hanging string split your arrow group in half.

    Now, go back to 9 feet.

    Fire a field point arrow.

    If the field point arrow does not exactly nail the hanging string, then adjust all of your pins to the left or right, until the arrow is dead center under the exact center of the bullseye.

    Now, go back to 10 yards.

    Adjust the arrow rest in tiny amounts, until the hanging string splits your 3 arrow group in half.

    When you are done, you can fire a field point arrow from 9 feet and it will be exactly underneath the center of the bullseye.

    Your 3 arrow group from 10 yards, will also be split in half by the hanging string.

    Now, your centershot (arrow rest) and your windage (pins) will be perfect.
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    I didn't worry about the bullseye being aligned with the string as it is just a reference and you are concerned where your arrow is hitting in reference to the string, not the bullseye. Also, I tried various types of string, yarn, and settled on weed whacker line. My tired eyes couldn't see the string well at longer distances. My weed whacker line is bright red and easy for me to see even back at 10 to 15 yards. Just make sure you have a heavy enough weight so that it hangs straight.

    You can use longer distances than 10 yards if you have it too. I start with 10 yards and then move back to 15, sometimes 20 yards, this is just another bit of fine tuning but isn't necessary.

    Make sure you take good shots and rest between them.

    I hope this helps someone like it helped me.
    Last edited by MLN1963; 08-09-2011 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Added Info
    Firecat 400

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    Also, if you don't have an easy way to hang a string you can use the same method by printing a line on a piece of paper. I did that today, I inserted a rectangle in a document and then changed the shape until I had a .500" line from top to bottom. I taped it to my target and went after it.

    I normally just use electrical tape on the target but this way you can use a level on the paper and know it is perfectly vertical or horizontal. I have to give Sonny Thomas credit for the level idea. I stole that trick from him.



    Last edited by MLN1963; 08-08-2011 at 04:21 PM.
    Firecat 400

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    Quote Originally Posted by MLN1963 View Post
    Also, if you don't have an easy way to hang a string you can use the same method by printing a line on a piece of paper.
    Good idea, you don't have to worry about hitting and cutting the string either.

    This is a good tuning method for shooting inside a shed or where you have limited space. Good one MLN1963!
    Last edited by Destroyer; 08-09-2011 at 03:38 PM.

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    I seen this in another thread, in this one, and a video. I am going to make sure and do this to my new Firecat 400 (on its way in the mail soon). I always wondered about it. My last Bow tech guy at a big corporate store just slapped peep and other things on and charged my card. I always wondered how I could figure it out myself without specialty items. This guy could have done a decent job having things lined up decent from the start if he had taken any time the first time. He was being slammed with people throwing bows at him though. I had him move my peep twice. First time did not even meet my eye. It was awful.

    Thanks for sharing these images and everything. I'll do this soon. Fine tune is almost a better method name for this than quick tune. It really makes a fine difference.

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    Great tips! Thanks guys.
    2007 Martin Wildcat / Jaguar 55# Dw 29" DL, Wildman Fly Series Quiver,Nap Apache Drop Away Rest, 28" Beman, ICS. Bowhunter 400- Custom Camo Hutch-n-son wrist sling

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    Default This is why I like this forum

    I've learned a lot in just the few weeks I've been in this forum.
    Can't wait to try this method out this weekend.

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    What I do to get started with mine. Really made a difference when I was getting my Cheetah dialed in.
    2007 Cheetah :: Jaguar Take-down
    REAL AVID Field Staff

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    Default I It works

    I have used this before and it works great. It is called a "modified french tuning" or "french tuning". If using a string then tie a washer to create a pendulam/plumb bob. Good Luck.

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