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Thread: inserts pulling out?

  1. #1
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    Default inserts pulling out?

    so i bought some cool flex from bohning to install my own nocks after i squared both ends with my new f.a.s.t. from lumenok, and now five out of six inserts have pulled out in my target. (two are still in there) What did i do wrong? not enough glue? how do i ruff up the inside of the shaft to hold better? should i get better inserts than the one's that came with the six pack. would have switched to harvest time but cx sent me a free six pack of blue streaks for some reason(warranty-remember the picture of the hanging golf balls, i just asked why it happened) and used the cheap looking inserts that came with the arrows.
    2011 Firecat 400, sword twilight hunter, apa twister, lots of arrows

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    Quote Originally Posted by boobowbender View Post
    What did i do wrong? not enough glue? how do i ruff up the inside of the shaft to hold better? should i get better inserts than the one's that came with the six pack.
    Maybe you did nothing wrong, that glue melts with hot water so it can't be very strong. You can rough up the inside with steel wool or whatever and make sure everything is clean, might help.

    How hot is it there?

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    i suppose. its not too warm in my basement-prolly 70 ish, but you make a good point. would a screw work good too rough things up?
    2011 Firecat 400, sword twilight hunter, apa twister, lots of arrows

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    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    I use a round chainsaw file and rough up the surface on the inside walls. This will allow the glue, something to hold to.




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    Senior Member Ehunter's Avatar
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    I gave up on any hotmelt glues a year ago for inserts. Was using them with my Victory VAP's and couldn't keep an insert in for more than one or two shots. Now I use a superglue. Gotta put them together quick to get the BH lined up, but they don't come out. They are also heat reversible too. It just takes a bit more heat than a hot melt glue.
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    Member EnglishKev's Avatar
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    I use 24hr epoxy for my inserts.
    For roughing the inside of the shaft, a bronze bore cleaning brush works pretty good.

    Kev

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    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnglishKev View Post
    I use 24hr epoxy for my inserts.
    For roughing the inside of the shaft, a bronze bore cleaning brush works pretty good.

    Kev
    Beat me to it. Both suggestions are good, but after using the bore cleaning brushdon't forget to use a QTip and 91% alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) to clean the inside of the shaft. Most super glues dry too quickly and get brittle so don't hold their bond. Same for 5 minute Epoxy. Hot melt is out for use on carbon.

    Here's why I like 24 hr epoxy. Number one, it holds. Number two, I can install a broadhead ferrule to the insert, apply glue, install the insert, and while it's setting I can spin-check the alignment and make fine adjustments. Can also align the point to the fletching if desired. Then set it aside and move to the next one. Very very seldom do I have a point pull out.
    Last edited by bfisher; 08-24-2011 at 04:42 AM.
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    I just used sandpaper wrapped around a nail. If you rough it up don't forget to wipe it down with Isopropyl alcohol.

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    The FAST tool makes some pretty fine powder if you didn't get all that out it would affect the holding power of the glue.
    Last edited by bfisher; 08-24-2011 at 08:22 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ehunter View Post
    Now I use a superglue.
    Same here works and is a bit easier to remove an insert than epoxy, but using a good epoxy they won't come out.

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