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Thread: 2008 Martin Cheetah

  1. #11
    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    Hey Barry, I believe the Mpo cam is different. The cam only has 2 pegs on it, and the number 2 increases the draw by half an inch. At least this is the way mine was.



    Hutch
    Well then, I'll take your word for it, Hutch.
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  2. #12
    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    I think hawg can tell us since he has one. I just remember my Bengal had only 2 pegs and the first was draw length and second gave a half inch. That was a 07 I don't think the 08 is any different except the draw stop.
    And now the Accu Trac has only one pin.

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  3. #13
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    Opinions on retro fitting a cam from a newer model? I currently have the factory m-pro with the 29" module installed. Cam is also set to the #2 peg.

  4. #14
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    Not sure a cam change will do anything, might be other reasons for the longer draw on the later models like the amount of reflex or deflection on the limbs. String and cable lengths are still the same.

    Not saying it wont work though.

  5. #15
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    Ok, question, what procedure is used to put the twist in the bowstring? Pics or directions? Not too familiar with that

  6. #16
    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    First there are several things you need to do. One is to post a picture of the cam from the side so we can see just what the orientation is. If you don't know how there are some STICKIES at the top of the page that explain it. I'd prefer the side with the two pegs for the string so maybe do both sides. Wouldn't hurt to show you at full draw (head to foot) with the bow either, and tell us our wingspan. 30" draw is usually a good fit for somebody with a 75" wingspan.

    Second: RH bow? Take a pencil and draw a line on the left side of the cam where it passes through the limb fork for reference. Then physically measure the draw length of the bow. Measure the a2a and brace height with the limbs bottomed. Weigh the bow for draw weight.

    Take note (measure) the height of your nocking point and peep in relation to some part of the bow. I like to measure from the top axle. Write it down. Write everything down.

    Next use a press to relieve string/cable pressure. If you don't have a press then back the limb bolts out about five turns at a time. Watch the threads through the side of the barrel nut in the riser. When you have about 10 or 11 turns off you should start seeing daylight through the barrel nut. About here the string/cable should be getting slack enough to remove them. You only need to remove one end.

    Remove the cable and add about 7 twists to the cable and reinstall it. Remove the string, stretch it out and remove about 10 twists from the string. Then reinstall it to it's proper peg. Now write down how many twists you made to each.

    Now start cranking the limbs in again, about two turns at a time to each limb till they bottom out. Now look at the mark on the cam and see how much it has rotated. I'm going to guess about 3/8" to 1/2". Check the draw weight and if necessary back it off a little. Check nock height and peep and reset them to your previous measurements.

    This should put you close enough to be able to shoot the bow and see how much things changed. Depending on how much cam rotation there is you can expect a little more vibration from the bow and maybe a little more noise. Twisting the rigging is going to change the specs of the bow.
    a2a is going to be shorter and I don't know what they brace will be. Now you shuld be able to shoot the bow and see what happens. If need be put a longer loop on the string if you use one as this is about all you're going to get out of the bow.

    If all this doesn't work then I'd advise putting it back to original specs and sell it and buy a bow that fits better. The cost of replacing the cam, idler and new rigging will probably cost more than replacing the bow altogether.
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    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    Default my diagnosis

    mine is set with the F5 mod on the #1 peg. i have a 28.5" DL. id say that the next mod would put him at the max of 29" DL on #1 post. As Hutch said, ive got the same bow. '08 Cheetah w M-pro cam. string at 84.5" cable at 31.5". My nephew has a 2010 Cheetah w accu-trak cam F5 mod,only one peg at the same 28.5" DL that i have. his string is 85"(1/2" longer than the M-pro) and the cable is the same length at 31.5". I'm assuming the extra 1/2" string length is the difference in the cams.

    So i would say that if the M-pro is 29" max DL,and the Accu-track is 30" max DL which the OP is looking for,then it should be just a matter of getting the Accu-trak cam and a new string to get him up and shooting. seems like a better plan than having an out of tune bow. But,season is closing in on us fast.
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    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    Hey Barry, I believe the Mpo cam is different. The cam only has 2 pegs on it, and the number 2 increases the draw by half an inch. At least this is the way mine was.



    Hutch
    wait! are you sure bout that? seems #2 peg would shorten DL because of pulling more string into the cam whereas the #1 peg there would be less string pulled into the cam.
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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    Any idea where to get the '10 cam and idler at a reasonable price? and should I get string length from '10 also?

  10. #20
    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawgEnvy View Post
    wait! are you sure bout that? seems #2 peg would shorten DL because of pulling more string into the cam whereas the #1 peg there would be less string pulled into the cam.
    Sorry Hawg I got them backwards. Been awhile since I had one.


    Hutch
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