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Thread: mx201/701? not sure which?

  1. #1
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    Question mx201/701? not sure which?

    can a crack in a bow be fixed? its near the limb tip. also any info on this bow or advice for repair would be great as i cant find any. cant tell from the writing whether it is a 701 or 201 but have searched both with no luck.

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    Senior Member Money Man's Avatar
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    Can you post some pictures so we can see what your looking at. A lot of unknown bows have been identified here from pictures. Welcome to the forum.
    2012 Alien X

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    Thanks... I really like the bow, just dont want to make the crack worse.
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    • File Type: jpg 2.jpg (104.2 KB, 102 views)
    • File Type: jpg 3.jpg (87.8 KB, 102 views)

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    It looks as though its trying to delamanate, does the crack open up as you draw the bow? If its comming apart, there should be a difference when its strung and when its not, will the crack catch your fingernail or snag a cotton ball? I'd call customer service ( sorry, don't know the number ) and explain it to them, see what they can do. Have a clearer pic ready to email to them. Hope it can be repaired, its a beautifull bow. I'd like to see more of it, strung if possible, those wooden parts are overlays, don't really think the crack extends into the limbs itself.
    Last edited by elkslayer4x5; 10-03-2011 at 02:16 PM.
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    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

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    Thank you, i think its very nice too i want to shoot it so bad! yes its wide enough or should i say seperated enough to feel the crack it actually get's tight again when strung. I also think its not into the limb, but is definately seperating it would almost seem as though someone was trying to string it backwards it seems to be a strange place to crack on the string side like it was forced in the wrong direction. sigh and sadly seems as though it was left strung it is warped a tiny bit on the very ends of the limbs, when youy draw back the string does not stay within the groove, can this be fixed aswell?4.jpg

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Since the crack gets tighter when srtung, I think that it could be glued back in place. Don't really understand what you're saying is going on with the limb tips, when draw the string should leave the groves, but if I'm getting it right, if you looked down the length of the srtung string, the limb tips are twisted? If thats what you mean, can you take a photo of that? What happens when the bow is drawn, do the limb tips twist? And as you let the bow down, they twist back in line with the string? In the mean time, search google, I entered recurve repair, most hits where guys asking a question like yours, reading a few of them I found this place.

    http://www.prairietrad.com/

    They claim to be able to fix most recurve troubles, worth a shot. If I were you, I'd be dying to shoot it. Back to what bow it is.... Riser reminds me of the Dreamcatcher, as does the white limbs, except its a 64" bow, more of a target recurve length rather than a huinting bow, and looking on Martins website, going back to the 2008 site the Dreamcatcher is a 60 " bow... So am gonna have to say I don't know. But I like it! Hope that it can be repaired.
    Last edited by elkslayer4x5; 10-06-2011 at 05:56 AM.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    http://cascadianbowmen.com/
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

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    lol sorry if you didnt quite understand it is a little confusing to try and explain so here are a couple more photos... the first shows how the strung string is not centered as the end of the limb twists slightly and also the bow appears not straight even when not strung sigh im sorry im not very familiar with bows so i just assume this is not normal to me it seems as though it was left strung possibly and has warped it entirely. the second shows what it does after it has been drawn and slowly returned to normal yet not fired. I think if i do shoot it it might come completely off the bow; that might get nasty so ive refrained for now 5.jpg
    7.jpg

  8. #8
    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Unfortunatly, it looks like the limbs are twisted. I'd email Prairie Traditions a picture of the cracked overlay and those last two pics to
    info@prairietrad.com or call Joe Lasch of Prairie Traditions @ 920 397 0959 and see if he can fix it.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    http://cascadianbowmen.com/
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

  9. #9
    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    There is a chance that you may be able to un-twist your limbs youself. I was reading a post about twisted limbs, and in it a poster said,.....

    "learned from the guys at black widow. You need LOW heat to make the limbs flexible. I've never tried it on all carbon limbs, but on limbs that have wood in them you can reconstruct the memory of the wood with low heat.

    If you have a deep sink (as in kitchen) run it full of hot water. The water needs to be as hot as you can stand to hold your hand in. No more. 95 percent of twisted limbs are twisted in the curve part by the nock end. With the limbs bolted down on a riser as far as they will go, dip the twisted limb into the water, hold it there for about 20 seconds. Then take it out and quickly twist it in the opposite direction of the limb twist with your hand as far as you can twist it and hold it for as long as you can."

    Worth a shot, hope it helps, please let me know if it does. Wishing you good luck.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    http://cascadianbowmen.com/
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

  10. #10
    Member DeepRiverBowman's Avatar
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    You can get a little more technical with removing limb twist. The hot water is good - it allows the heat to soak into interior of the limb. Twisting and holding with your hand might not do it the first time and may need to be repeated a few times. Another way to do it is to have a vise or clamp and a hair dryer handy. Also put a bolt in the stabilizer hole and have a weight that you can hang from it. Soak the limb in water as instructed then clamp it (gently) with the bolt sticking out on the side you want to twist toward (away from the present twist). Hang the weight so it twists the limb in the opposite direction and gently and evenly heat the limb where the twist is greatest. You want the weight to pull just beyond straight, but not too far or you will have a twist going the other way. Then leave it to cool and reform for a few hours. Repeat if necessary.

    mike

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