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Thread: 2010 martin bonehunter draw adjustment...

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    Default 2010 martin bonehunter draw adjustment...

    since putting my string loop on, it seems my draw is longer and i dont like it. can i shorten my draw by like 1/2 inch to get my anchor point back to where it was? and if so how do i go about doing it? i could always lose the draw loop, just hoping i could get some info without having to do that. thanks!

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    Start by trying to adjust your draw stop, on the cam. Moving the stop towards the minus will shorten the draw up. It may also change let off. If you dont end up where you want, put the next size smaller module in the cam, and move the stop towards the plus sign on the cam. And fine tune from there.
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    Senior Member Don B's Avatar
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    If I am thinking right, your bow should have a draw stop on the bottom cam. And there should be a moduel that rotates for the draw also. if so just pull the screws on the draw mod and rotate it to the next shorter hole and readjust the draw stop to where it hits on the limb a tad sooner.
    Hope I got this right and it helps.
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    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    what is your DL,and what draw mod do you have in.your bow should have came with the F5 mod instaled and you should have got mods F1 through F7.lets start with that and go from there.my DL is 28.5 and i have the F4 mod in.my draw stop is 3/4 the up to the +.

    how long is your D loop,because you might get away with shorting you Dloop if it really long,just a thought.

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    Yeah what gd said. Your bow should have the F mod system.
    2010 rytera x. apache rest, truglo 5pin. 8in shockbocker 1000 stabilizer. norway g2 string tamer Huch-n-Son strings
    2010 rytera z apache carbon rest axt primal x5 sight

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    yeah its got the f5 on it and a draw stop. my loop is short, im lookin at the bow right now and havent a clue what the module even does on this setup. either way im gonna need a bowpress i assume to move the cable to the other peg, which i dont have. so i may just take the loop off and go back to brass nocks. i was told i could adjust draw without a press.....unless im confused

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    Quote Originally Posted by FiddlersGreen View Post
    yeah its got the f5 on it and a draw stop. my loop is short, im lookin at the bow right now and havent a clue what the module even does on this setup. either way im gonna need a bowpress i assume to move the cable to the other peg, which i dont have. so i may just take the loop off and go back to brass nocks. i was told i could adjust draw without a press.....unless im confused
    You can actually completely disasemble the bow without the use of a press. Just back the limb bolts out 2 turns at a time, alternating top to bottom untill you see the end of the limb bolt appear in the center of the barrel nut, at which point the string and cable should have enough tension off them that you can slip them off the cam. If you have the MPro cam, there should be 2 different pegs for making 1/2" adjustments.

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    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    i think the acutrac is on that bow.if so then you cant switch to a half inch peg because it is not set up for it.

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    its got the m2 cam on it. and i moved the drawstop and it seems to be better now. this is the first year ive used a drawloop, maybe its just not to my liking. who knows ill be back in the woods tomorow!

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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    The d loop is the most accurate way of shooting IMO. Once you are use to it most people don't go back to any other way. The draw stop should help get your anchor point back to your liking. After that it is just practice




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