# Thread: Sorting 2-3 degree lean on the idler wheel

1. ## Sorting 2-3 degree lean on the idler wheel

I have noticed a 2-3 degree lean to the left on my idler wheel which concerns me about potencial string derailments. I have read the thread on bow measurements but need some more detailed info.

1: When I loosen the limbs how far do I need to go before I can safely remove the cables?
2: Do I need to loosen each limb in increments ie: 1 turn at a time for example?
3: What will expect to occur when I remove the lean side cable, ie: will it immediatly untwist if it was twisted?
4: If the statement in question 3 does not happen, should I apply equal & opposite twists to the other cable?
5: When retensioning the limbs again is it 1 turn per limb?

Much appreciated

Dark (alias Wil)

2. I do two or three turns and then equalize it with the opposite side but I just don't go beyond five unless I am preparing to remove the limbs completely and even then it is not a rule.

Usually about three turns and the strings are just about ready to come off. Once you do it you will see. It's not rocket science so don't be overly concerned. Any problems just check back in here with pictures which always help.

When adjusting poundage from the total to set the actual draw weight that is when I go in 1 turn increments.

3. the barrel nuts just below the limb pocket. turn the limb bolts back in even amounts(top 2 turns,bottom 2 turns) until you can see the bottom of the limb bolt in the barrel nut.
2)at this point you should be able to remove the cable. if cam leans to the left,twist the right cable a couple twists at a time. if right,twist left cable.
3) nothing strange should happen when removing the cable from its post
4)once you have a couple twists in the cable,put it back on its post. make sure the limbs didn't move from their seated position and turn the limb bolts back in even amounts(2 turns top,2turns bottom).

i wouldn't worry about returning the bow to its previous draw weight. just putting enough tension on the string to see if you got the lean straightened out should be sufficient. if all looks good,rock on

4. do as the above folke said.but measure your ATA to see what side need adjusting and make twists as need.but try ro keep the bow isn spect.after your done measure againto make sure both sides are even.

5. Originally Posted by gravediggermtv
do as the above folke said.but measure your ATA to see what side need adjusting and make twists as need.but try ro keep the bow isn spect.after your done measure againto make sure both sides are even.
Just to clarify. ATA for Martin bows: is it taken from the center of the axles or from the outsides?

6. Center to center with limbs bottomed out.

7. Cool. Another query being english bottomed out & topped out. Topped out in the uk would mean full draw weight 70lbs +. Is that what u refer to as bottomed out?

8. Yes - all measurements/adjustments should be made with the limb bolts turned all the way in.
They then can be turned out an equal amount of turns, top and bottom, if you are not going to shoot the bow at
it's maximun draw weight.

9. Ok this afternoon I have been loosening off the limbs to remove the 2 degree to the left lean at the rear of the idler wheel.

What I have noticed is the more twists I add to the right hand cable to sort out the left rear lean the more the front side will lean. Am i doing it correctly or is there a happy medium where there will always be a little lean?? Will try & get some photos to show what I mean.

Having had a close look at the photo in the bow measurment thread the rear is perfectly aligned but from that picture I cannot see what is happening off the front of the idler wheel, the arrow is blocking the view. From where the double pulley wheel is located at the centre of the bow it stands to reason that there will be a lean off the front of the idler wheel.

10. Hey darkember, pics will help greatly. Usually the yoke is twisted up on the cable rod side. Then measure the ata to make sure they are the same when you are done. You don't want your ata to be under or over 1/4"

Hutch

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