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Thread: Repeat problems with 2009 Cheetah

  1. #11
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    Is there a draw stop on the bow and if so, did you reset it when you changed the draw length module?

  2. #12
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    Spiker,

    There is a draw stop and I did not adjust it when I changed the module. Would it cause that popping sound? I don't think its in contact with anything at the time of the "pop" but I am open to any and all suggestions.

    thanks,

    CS

  3. #13
    Senior Member Skbengal's Avatar
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    Can you post some pictures of the cam and modules? Have you tried having someone watch the cam while you draw the bow to see if they can pinpoint where the sound is coming from, or maybe they could even see what it's doing?

  4. #14
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    Default pics of cam/module

    DSC01134.jpgDSC01135.jpgDSC01136.jpg

    Pics of both sides of the cam, and with the extra draw module that didn't work (made popping sound). Buddy watched for me and said it is popping when it rolls over on the draw module, almost like it is getting hung up on the lip of the module.

    Maybe just a bad module?

    later,

    CS

  5. #15
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    Look to see if the cable track in the module is inline with the track of the cam where they meet, and do the tracks look the same on both mods?

  6. #16
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    Spiker, I will check that tonight.

    I spoke with Joel at Martin literally a few minutes ago, they have someone on it, but the individual wasn't in the office due to illness, but Joel gave me some ideas to try out (draw stop adjustment, etc.) and is sending another module just to be sure it isn't a bad module.

    Hopefully I will get things worked out soon.

    thanks again for everyone's input on this.

    CS

  7. #17
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    Default nother update...

    I took the suggestions of Joel and Spiker and others and adjusted the draw stop. It did not effect the popping sound. I decided last night to try the F3 module, assuming if the F5 and F3 both work then it is definitely a bad module.

    The F3 actually popped louder. Frustrated beyond belief, I put the F5 back in (only one that has been not making the sound), and adjusted the draw stop.

    Now the F5 is also popping when in mid draw cycle. It is much fainter than the other two modules, but definitely is doing the same thing.

    I looked very closely while drawing...just as the cable gets to the draw module...it is like it is hanging up for just a micro second then popping over into the channel, hence the sound.

    Any other thoughts from the good people of this forum?

    later,

    CS

  8. #18
    Senior Member Skbengal's Avatar
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    Can you take some pictures from the sides of the cam so we can see the alignment of the grooves and how snug the module is to the cam? Is there any chance that the screws that attach the mod to the cam have had the threads stripped?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skbengal View Post
    Can you take some pictures from the sides of the cam so we can see the alignment of the grooves and how snug the module is to the cam? Is there any chance that the screws that attach the mod to the cam have had the threads stripped?
    The module seemed to be snug to me, but I did note it almost looks like the cable comes in contact with the module at a angle before "popping" into the channel. I will see what I can get done this weekend. The screws seem to be biting just fine. I even tried backing them off a half turn to see if that made a difference but it didn't. Forgive me guys, in 1998, I was handed a Martin Pride, and shot it for 10 years without a single problem...regretfully, I never learned the ins and outs and workings of the bows, so I am pretty much clueless here. This is my second bow since 98 (minus several bowfishing rigs).

    I really appreciate the support of this forum and the guys/gals from Martin that are still working with me.

    later,

    CS

  10. #20
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    It may not be the module or cam thats at fault, it could be the cable causing the noise, too large diameter of end serving or too many strands in the cable itself. The serving appears to be BCY 3D which is a .017 diameter and works well on the string track but can be a little too large for the takeup (mod) track on some cams. I prefer to use .014 halo on the takeup and payout tracks as it normally fits in the tracks much better, especially at the transition between the cam and mod. Do you know what materials the string builder used and the strand count ?

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