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Thread: Repeat problems with 2009 Cheetah

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by archerx7 View Post
    It may not be the module or cam thats at fault, it could be the cable causing the noise, too large diameter of end serving or too many strands in the cable itself. The serving appears to be BCY 3D which is a .017 diameter and works well on the string track but can be a little too large for the takeup (mod) track on some cams. I prefer to use .014 halo on the takeup and payout tracks as it normally fits in the tracks much better, especially at the transition between the cam and mod. Do you know what materials the string builder used and the strand count ?
    Archer, that makes sense, I am not sure on the materials used to build the string. Any thoughts on why it would start doing it now? I have been shooting that particular string for approximately 400-500 shots maybe? Never did that before then started when I switched modules, and now is doing with all modules?

    good info, thanks,

    CS

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by csgrizz View Post
    Archer, that makes sense, I am not sure on the materials used to build the string. Any thoughts on why it would start doing it now? I have been shooting that particular string for approximately 400-500 shots maybe? Never did that before then started when I switched modules, and now is doing with all modules?

    good info, thanks,

    CS
    It could be any number of things....or a combination of things. You said they replaced the original cam, could be the track on the new cam and the mods have a slight misalignment or the track on the new cam is a slightly different diameter than the original cam.......or it could be the serving, 3D end serving starts out pretty smooth and slick and as it wears can get a little rough, especially if going through a track thats a smaller diameter, it will start to hang up at the transtion unless the transition is perfectly in line and the same size. Its been my experience with several different manufacturers that the mods will sometimes have a smaller track than the track on the cam itself, which means the cable diameter needs to be sized to the smaller of the 2 tracks to avoid any problems in the transition.

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  3. #23
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    Default pics for archer

    bowpics 001.jpgbowpics 002.jpgbowpics 003.jpgbowpics 004.jpg

    The first three are just different angles of the module. It looks to be flush to the cam to my untrained eye. The fourth pic shows a spot on the serving where it comes in contact with the module that is worn pretty good. Not through the serving but its worn...hard to see in the pic.

    It was tough to get an angle to take those pics, hope this helps.

    thanks,

    CS

  4. #24
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    The module appears to be fine, could you get us a pic from the cam up to and including the rod and slide and a side view of the rod/slide.

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  5. #25
    Senior Member Skbengal's Avatar
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    You see in the bottom picture where the mod meets the cam. Can you take a pic showing how the grooves line up at that point? If I'm looking at it properly that looks like the spot that's starting to chew your serving. Sorry, I'll shut up now real help has arrived.

  6. #26
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    May help and may not. On my 2011 Onza 3, at half draw there was a load popping noise that I was sure was coming from the lower cam. Even had others listen and they also agreed it was from the cam. Tryed everything nothing helped. After all things failed, I decided to shift my attention elsewhere, limb bolt and roto cup. I used so white grease everywhere the limb touched the riser. Put it back together and for the last 5 months I have not heard the popping sound.

  7. #27
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    Default problem located but not fixed...

    I had trouble getting a clear shot of the module where the groove line up with the cam, but while trying to take pics, I noticed the problem. The module is INSIDE the grooves for the cam, when the cable rolls over that spot, it hangs and POPS into the groove.

    The screws are really tight, so I decided to back them off a few turns while watching the module. I backed em off until they were lined up and then drew the bow...no sound. Put the F4 mod in and tightened it down. It popped as always, backed the screws off until the grooves were lined up and it drew smoothly no sound.

    Now that I have identified that sound, here is next problem. I didn't shoot the bow, but after drawing it a few times with the screws backed out a couple turns, the module was LOOSE. I am assuming this is not supposed to happen.

    So is the NEW cam that I just got from warranty work faulty or what? I really do not want to go for warranty work number 3 since dec 2010, but it is rapidly going that direction.

    later,

    CS

  8. #28
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Just a thought here, but following ArcherX7 thougts about serving diameter and module track it canmake some sense. We're talking about the cable lining up with the mocule groove, right? Well, it's in the design of these things and some bows do it and others do not, but the cable cannot track straight into the module groove because the cable itslelf is being pulled on an angle toward the cable slide. This causes the cable to slide into the module groove from the side, if you kow what I mean. Then, if you have any cam lean at all it compounds the problem.

    This is just a suggestion, but you might try a shim between the cam and the module. You might even try shimming just the one module at one end. That being the one closest to the cable slide. It would give you the same effect a loosening the module screws, but in this case you could tighten the screws down so they don't back out. Whatever shim you use doesn't need to be anything thick. I'm thinking maybe one of those thin rubber spacers that you can put between a quiver bracket and the bow.

    Or, as X7 mentioned, maybe smaller diameter serving. Consider this. The difference between .017 and .014 serving diameter is only .003", but you have it all the way around the string so it's actually double or .006". It might make the difference. I know it's a PITA, but if it works then you've learned something for the future.

    As an example on my Alien Z with a CCS I didn't care for how far the cables were pulled to the side. So I removed it, placed a small washer 1/8" thick under the front screw and bolted it back up. This angled the CCS toward the string more reducing what I considered excessive cable clearance and side torque. Whether it does any good or not I don't know, but it did wonders for my confidence.
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  9. #29
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    I'm tellin ya,,,call Greg @ Hunting&Fishing USA,,,I had the same bizzare stuff goin on with my Cheetah and he fixed it,,,if I remember correctly it was in the roto-cup area.

  10. #30
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    Mike, I called and got his voice mail and left him a message. At this point I am so frustrated I am willing to take any and all opinions and advice.

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