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Thread: DIY Camera Mount

  1. #21
    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Yeah I can zoom it, that was fully zoomed out - It's currently shooting HD 720p - so the picture should still be pretty good. When I get home it is generally dark, so next time I get some light - I'll do a zoomed video. At that point, I should have figured the rest of the connection out so I don't have to worry about the phone jumping out. That video had a zip-tie around the phone and craddle to keep it from popping out. I think it is jumping out because there is so little room for the mount to flex to reduce the shock that the force is just pushing to phone out of place.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    all right then sounds like you have it almost whiped... do need to lose that zip tie, and any duct tape... lol good luck man hope you get it solved soon ... Man Im almost jelious... I dot have a fancy phone like that so Im ok for now...lol
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
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  3. #23
    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Seems like you need a flexable washer between your camera mount and your bow, something to absorb some of the shock.
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    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
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  4. #24
    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElkSlayer View Post
    all right then sounds like you have it almost whiped... do need to lose that zip tie, and any duct tape... lol good luck man hope you get it solved soon ... Man Im almost jelious... I dot have a fancy phone like that so Im ok for now...lol
    Quote Originally Posted by elkslayer4x5 View Post
    Seems like you need a flexable washer between your camera mount and your bow, something to absorb some of the shock.
    Just need to shoot it this weekend. Got it pretty much where I think it is going to be. Rigged up a "trap" piece that will hold the phone in place so I don't have to worry about a tie or anything like that. I'll get some pictures up when I get home.

    For the shock, still trying to figure out what else I can do to bring that down - so far, from all my "tests" this is by far the least amount of vibration that comes through the video. I think with the nature of the position and probably the same for any camera mounted to a bow, you are going to have some that you will ultimately have to live with. I think there are a few things I could try to see if that makes any difference.

    Also, would like to consider shooting lumenoks or tracers, just don't want to throw off my FOC and don't want to go up to a 125 or more head. Looking to go over to the Harvest Time arrows at the end of the season, otherwise I could just add a GT weight to mine, unless the GT inserts will fit the HT2 arrows and then I could go with that. Would just want to ensure I'm spinned properly to accommodate for that extra front end weight.
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  5. #25
    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    no more phone popin out... thats a good thing..
    As for the vib @ the shot. I see what you say, not much a guy can do there.
    As per the luma nocks good idea, I just looked at some @ cabelas yesterday while i was there...30 bucks per 3 ouch..I was also worried about FOC and my walet...lol
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
    Martin cougarIII elite nitrous C cam X system & HHA
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  6. #26
    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    There are DIY lighted nocks out there - not sure that I want to put some of those together just to see how I like it, there is a post somewhere, forget where* that has a review of almost all the lighted nock options out there - pros/cons/prices/etc.

    Found it, it's a little old - but all the info is pretty much there: http://archeryreport.com/2009/08/lighted-nock-review/
    Last edited by droppixel; 12-14-2011 at 11:19 AM. Reason: adding url
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  7. #27
    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    IMAG0094.jpgIMAG0095.jpgIMAG0096.jpgIMAG0097.jpg

    Here are some pictures of the set-up. I still have to get the steel off and paint it, just wanted to get it fitted and test first. Going to clean up the weld a little more - did it as a quick job and just hit is with a quick grind, once it is painted it should look really nice. More videos this weekend sometime to show the new shots.
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  8. #28
    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    looks good... did you add a rubber spacer... and why did you use steel was thats just what you had, and could weld.. IMO, would go with some Alum, instead to cut the weight down some... it too can be welded just not by the average welder...lol

    I see the little locking tap you added take it thats all it needed....lol be here waiting for more up dates ,your lucky to be able to film Off the Bow
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
    Martin cougarIII elite nitrous C cam X system & HHA
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    http://www.cascadianbowmen.org/

  9. #29
    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Steel is what I had - I wouldn't be opposed to modifying it in the future if I could get my hands on aluminum, just don't have a tig welder. Didn't add a rubber spacer to the stab mount yet - not sure how much it is going to help, but I'll probably throw one on just to see what happens. Thinking I'll go up to the hardware store and pick something up that will work. I have a rubber bung that connects the mount at the top to the metal piece. So far pretty happy with it, but as with anything I'll tinker with it until it is perfect or if I find a better solution.
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  10. #30
    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    as with anything tinker tinker till its perfect or works that way... I here ya use what you have , thats what we do, But here its all alum. lol... scraps I drug home over the years of working in a machine shop....
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
    Martin cougarIII elite nitrous C cam X system & HHA
    Darton Fury recurve

    http://www.cascadianbowmen.org/

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