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Thread: D-Loops and nocks

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    Default D-Loops and nocks

    Was wondering how many folks use a nock under their top knot of the loop to prevent the nock point from moving and pinching. Had an individual say that they always do to prevent nock pinch but on my old PSE I never did just had a loop installed and never had a problem that I knew of anyways.
    2010 Bengal,63#, 28dl, Easton ST Excels 400s @ 27.5", GT 5575s @ 27.5", or Beman 400s @ 27.5, ST 100 Magnums/Grim Reapers, older WB, Bonecollector 1100 Sights, LimbSaver "S" coil stabilizer, Grayling four arrow quiver, nocturnal nocks, Hutch-n-Sons cable/strings

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    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    loop only,no nocks,no problems. all is good. the Diamond i had,had the brass nocks between the loops and has some pinch. i pulled the brass off,and tied a new loop. worked great.
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    We have used tie nocks or so called soft nocks. One on the bottom of the arrow nock, and another on the top. This does 2 things, 1st it keeps your arrow nock place when you have to replace your d loop. 2nd keeps your arrow nock from being pinched. A lot of pros use this method and it had proven itself.

    http://bowsite.com/bowsite/features/...one/index.html
    http://www.backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/nock.php



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    Thanks that's how I thought I would do my new one and leave the nock out.
    2010 Bengal,63#, 28dl, Easton ST Excels 400s @ 27.5", GT 5575s @ 27.5", or Beman 400s @ 27.5, ST 100 Magnums/Grim Reapers, older WB, Bonecollector 1100 Sights, LimbSaver "S" coil stabilizer, Grayling four arrow quiver, nocturnal nocks, Hutch-n-Sons cable/strings

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    Senior Member bowgramp59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    We have used tie nocks or so called soft nocks. One on the bottom of the arrow nock, and another on the top. This does 2 things, 1st it keeps your arrow nock place when you have to replace your d loop. 2nd keeps your arrow nock from being pinched. A lot of pros use this method and it had proven itself.

    http://bowsite.com/bowsite/features/...one/index.html
    http://www.backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/nock.php



    Hutch
    it only pinches at full draw, not when the string is at brace ht. i set mine to where it doesn't try to raise the arrow off the rest. i have lots of time on my hands , don't mind locating d-loop position with bow square. but i have also done it the way you do.
    curtis

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    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    the place that put my string on put a brass knock on against my request.i dont like it.when i get my new set from hutch,well then bye bye brass.and heck i might just send him my bow to play with.

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    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravedigger View Post
    the place that put my string on put a brass knock on against my request.i dont like it.when i get my new set from hutch,well then bye bye brass.and heck i might just send him my bow to play with.
    heck bring it down I'll paly with it... had it been me would have yanked that brass off the string long ago...or made the shop remove it.. Just a D loop thats all. we use here. that and a soft nock on my recurve.... tied it on with serving... hate them brass ones
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    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    I agree with Hutch about brass nocksets, whether used with a loop or not. They might be fine in the beginning when setting up and tuning a bow as they are easier to move, but once the proper nock (loop) height is found it should be removed and a tied on nock replacing it.

    Like a lot of older guys I came up using brass nocks. One above and one below the nock. Sometimes two above to keep the first one from sliding. Later I learned to use just one above and tie dental floss above it to keep it from sliding. Then one day I got a chronograph and eventually got to playing around. I forget the bow, but chrono'd it and came up with "X" speed. Removed the brass and tied one in the same location. Chrono'd again and came up with a 4 fps speed gain. That did it for me.

    I also learned that brass nocksets are hard on nocks. Using a rope release with the rope under the nock I saw that the arrow nock was forced against the nockset at full draw. With the resulting string angle the brass wears a notch into the top of the arrow nock. I routinely changed nocks every once in a while because of this. Since going to a tied-on nock I no longer have to do this, which saves some money. Please realize that back when I shot competition all we had were the glue-on nocks and they cost a whopping $7.00/100. Not so with these $6/12 we have today.

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Just a loop, has'nt moved a bit since I tied it on three years ago, and no clue as to how many shots. But then I tied it real tight.
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    I have seen 2 small portions of thin serving used to keep the loop apart.
    Testing testing

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