Cam adjustment on Martin Threshold

[eugenek]

I want to check if I understand this correctly.

There are two pegs on the back side of the cam. They are labeled "1" and "2", "1" is near the axis of the cam and "2" is further out. The bow came with the string attached to "2".

If I move the string to the peg "1" (that is, closer to the axis), will that increase or decrease the draw length?

[eugenek]

Here's why I'm asking.

Manual says that moving the string to a lower-numbered peg increases the draw length by 1/2".

As far as I can tell, in my case, moving the string to "1" effectively shortens the string. It seems to me that, all else equal, shortening the string should result in decreasing draw length.

The 2011 bow manual does not have any pictures of the M-Pro cam. I found a Martin bow manual from 2009. It has a picture that looks like my cam (http://www.martinarchery.com/manuals...Bow_Manual.pdf page 9), but with peg numbers reversed: the one near the axis is "2" and the one outside is "1".

So it seems to me that either the peg numbers were accidentally reversed, or someone forgot to update the manual, but, in either case, the manual is wrong.

[Hutch~n~Son Archery]

Welcome to the forum, Since you only have 2 pegs, 1 is for what the module is set for in draw length. 2 would be a have inch shorter then what the draw length module is set for.
In other words if you have a 28" draw mod in the bow and it is on peg one it will be 28". Move it to peg 2 it will be 27". If I remember right this is what it should be or the increment is 1/2" can't remember exactly.




Hutch

[eugenek]

Thanks. I made another comment here explaining my concerns, but it seems to be stuck in moderation, hopefully it'll show up soon.

Meanwhile, another question: is it technically possible to get the string from one peg to the other without having a bow press or going to an archery shop that has one?

[Hutch~n~Son Archery]

The great thing about Martins is you don't need a bow press. Loosen the limb bolts 2 to 3 turns on the top then 2-3 turns on the bottom limb bolt do this until you have the string loose. Then reverse the procedure.



Hutch

[Hutch~n~Son Archery]

Also eugenek, you can do all your own work with a martin bow. change draw mods, string changes and adjustments. So on and so on. Just keep asking questions and we will do our best to help you. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum.



Hutch

[eugenek]

The great thing about Martins is you don't need a bow press. Loosen the limb bolts 2 to 3 turns on the top then 2-3 turns on the bottom limb bolt do this until you have the string loose. Then reverse the procedure.



Hutch

That's great. I went and tried to do that. As far as I can tell, swapping from 2 to 1 decreases draw weight. (Which is actually good for me, because DL was a little too long for me even with the F-1 piece.) So, pegs are numbered incorrectly. How do I file a bug report?

One other thing I was curious about, is that my bow kit did not include any pieces of the draw stop. But the bow does stop at some point when I draw it. Is it no longer necessary to have a draw stop with the M-Pro cam?

[Hutch~n~Son Archery]

Mpro is a cam without a draw stop, and M2pro has a draw stop. This is why the numbers seem backwards.




Hutch

[bowgramp59]

that is exactly why i like my twin cam bows, alien x, nemesis, onza, ect. just move the draw length mod. in 1/2" increments don't have to relax the limbs or noughting. need to change draw wt. just turn the limb bolts to where you want them, no pegs to deal with . its no big deal once you get your draw length set you shouldn't have to move it. i have had the ocasion to move the draw wt. . after shoulder surgery had to move them as low as i could and as my strength came back i gradually moved back to my peak wt.