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  1. #1
    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    Default Help with Laminating

    We are thinking of making a takedown riser, laminating a few exotic woods and forming the riser, Any one have any experience in this type of work?

    any help in this matter will be gladly read over an over...also want to do a rifle stock something in Cocobolo / bubinga

    Have an Idea on how to make this happen but we are looking for any info we can get, so come on folks lets here some Ideas

    Thanks from Elkslayer & elkslayer4x5
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
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    I'm not sure what exactly you are asking about. Laminating the wood is easy enough. I've seen my dad do it for things he's made. It was nothing more than having wood strips the thickness you like with a semi-smooth finish and gluing and clamping them together. Sometimes on the inner, hidden pieces you might screw or dowel them for added strength in the shearing department. If you want multi-colored you have to stain the different strips first and then glue them together. It's been 30 years since I lived at home but that is what I seem to remember.
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    Senior Member ElkSlayer's Avatar
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    yea thats what I know too ... but been forever since I was in wood shop... we are making a Recrve t/d and a gun stock or 3..
    want to know if any one has done it per the bow riser. Have found some good info just looking for more ..
    whats a good glue? how much clamp perssure? were not making a cutting board here...lol
    It's all fun an games till you put that big boy on the ground.. now its time to get to work
    Martin cougarIII elite nitrous C cam X system & HHA
    Darton Fury recurve

    http://www.cascadianbowmen.org/

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    Clamp= tight! Squeeze out the excess!

    Titebond wood glue is what Dad uses. They have a lot of info on the site.
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    Senior Member alex's Avatar
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    Laminating wood for a riser is relatively easy i think. The hard part are the limbs. Thus said i've never laminated wood for a riser, just a set of limbs (total disaster) and some knife handles (the result is excellent i'm proud to say )
    You need some good glue - epoxy is the best choice, and good clamps. And flat surface of the wood A tip i can give is that if you work with a "fresh" wood you must put a thin layer of glue first, wait till it soaks into the wood and then put enough/a lot of glue for the main job. I have worked for the knife handles with some pieces of varnished wood and they were glued easier then the regular wood, but i used superglue instead of epoxy for these parts. If you don't have proper or enough clamps you can use a vice. Tighten the pieces as much as you can and feel it's reasonable. About the gun stock - i don't remember to have seen one of laminated wood. With all that vibration and recoil you must be very precise and accurate when you make it. Good luck and please keep us informed about your projects (with pictures of course)!
    2008 Martin MOAB - 45-60#, set at about 51-53# / 55#" Perfect Line" compound/ 55# Mongol horsebow/ 45# "Perfect Line" takedown recurve/ 45# Bearpaw Grizzly hunter recurve/ 55# Samick Longbow Cheetah ... and several homemade bows

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Have'nt posted much in the last few days, as I've been busy reading build along threads on POA, getting a basic idea of what we will need as far as tools, books we'll need to read, and the general procedure, the last two days on limbs alone. This is the kind of work that we're talking about. This is a Blacktail takedown, made about an hours drive from here.

    Last edited by elkslayer4x5; 12-22-2011 at 04:43 AM.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    http://www.cascadianbowmen.org/
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex View Post
    Laminating wood for a riser is relatively easy i think. The hard part are the limbs. Thus said i've never laminated wood for a riser, just a set of limbs (total disaster) and some knife handles (the result is excellent i'm proud to say )
    You need some good glue - epoxy is the best choice, and good clamps. And flat surface of the wood A tip i can give is that if you work with a "fresh" wood you must put a thin layer of glue first, wait till it soaks into the wood and then put enough/a lot of glue for the main job. I have worked for the knife handles with some pieces of varnished wood and they were glued easier then the regular wood, but i used superglue instead of epoxy for these parts. If you don't have proper or enough clamps you can use a vice. Tighten the pieces as much as you can and feel it's reasonable. About the gun stock - i don't remember to have seen one of laminated wood. With all that vibration and recoil you must be very precise and accurate when you make it. Good luck and please keep us informed about your projects (with pictures of course)!
    Never seen a laminated gun stock? Here's three, not much recoil in either of the top two, a .17HMR and the Thumbhole stocked rifle is a .204 Ruger, but the bottom rifle is chambered in .338 Win Mag, Lots of recoil and vibration. Notice that the laminated pieces are oriented vertically, we want a horizontal orientation for the bow riser. See my post above.

    Last edited by elkslayer4x5; 12-22-2011 at 05:51 AM.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    http://www.cascadianbowmen.org/
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade

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