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Thread: What Paint?

  1. #1
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    Question What Paint?

    I am thinking about repainting one of my Shadowcats. It currently has the factory leopard spot camo, and I'm more of a black satin finish sort of person.

    I am more than capable of doing all the work myself, but is there any particular paint that suits best.

    Please bear in mind that I'm in the UK, so paint type, as opposed to 'xyz brand available at Wall Mart is good', as we probably don't have that brand over here, and we definitely don't have Wall Mart.
    Dedicated Finger Shooter.

    Shadowcat(s) with Barnsdale limbs: Davis The System, Free Flyte rest.

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    I think most of the rattle cans are water based these days. IMO they aren't that great but that is what we are stuck with, in the USA anyway, thanks to the EPA. All I have is WalMart in my neck of the woods so it is all I know.

    Are you using a spray can or automotive type paints?

    I think that a thorough prep removing all dust, oils, greases with a proper product is paramount. After that a self-etching primer to really stick to the bow's surface and give the paint something to adhere to. Then another degreasing/prep and spray on your paint.

    I think HawgEnvy(?) has painted a couple bows so he may chime in.
    Firecat 400

  3. #3
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    I would prefer to use spray cans if I can, although I can get my hands on spray equipment if required.

    I thought about powder coating, but as the Cat has a three piece riser, this may lead to cracking around the joins as the various bits of steel / alloy cool down at different rates.

    Etch primer is a good tip, thanks, I have used this a lot in the past when spraying custom motorcycle parts.
    Dedicated Finger Shooter.

    Shadowcat(s) with Barnsdale limbs: Davis The System, Free Flyte rest.

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    Powdercoating wont cause any problems as long as you cool the piece down gradually.
    Rather than pull the piece out when it has reached its cure time - just shut the oven down and let the piece
    cool down slowly inside untill it reaches ambient temp.

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    I have a Scepter which I had the riser powdercoated and painted the limbs with bumper paint. I did it in flat black, been using it for a few years now with no problem of paint cracking or peeling. Bumper paint is plyable so wont crack.

  6. #6
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    That's a good tip, thanks.

    Limbs don't need painting; I have carbon finished Barnsdale's with the Martin logo and another pair from a Rytera. It's just the leopard spot riser I'm not keen on.
    Dedicated Finger Shooter.

    Shadowcat(s) with Barnsdale limbs: Davis The System, Free Flyte rest.

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    We seem to be following a similar path Neil, I'm on stripping my bow for a respray too, getting my talented nephew to do the spraying, in the mean time I'm currently doing the paint laborious paint/film removal, if you can do a fair job with an aerosol I'd still strongly recommend you give it a blast over with a good lacquer from a proper air spray gun when you have done with the painting, with most aerosol lacquers the propellant doesn't evaporate properly and you can never get a decent finish.
    2011 Shadowcat

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    I would like to return mine to polished alluminium & laquer. How easy would that be to achieve?
    Testing testing

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    A nightmare lies ahead for you, as I said mine is mid strip (using Nitromors Paint Remover) and the finish of the bare metal that lies beneath will need a heck of a lot of polishing to get to anodising/bare metal lacquered finish standard, and all the holes/cut outs in a riser just make the job a whole lot more tedious.
    2011 Shadowcat

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz Lite Beer View Post
    A nightmare lies ahead for you, as I said mine is mid strip (using Nitromors Paint Remover) and the finish of the bare metal that lies beneath will need a heck of a lot of polishing to get to anodising/bare metal lacquered finish standard, and all the holes/cut outs in a riser just make the job a whole lot more tedious.
    Thought as much, I ride big bikes try doing it on an engine block
    Testing testing

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