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Thread: Martin Firecat Pro Series 4000

  1. #11
    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    One good reason to change out the peep to a tubeless peep is you never know when the tube will snap and that is dangerous. Another is the noise they make and last thing is feet per second is slower with a tubed peep.





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  2. #12
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    Oh I did not know that, I'll get that changed when I go to the shop next, probably soon because the wire going around my string where I attach my arrow to has broken and is now loose. It's been like this for a couple of days and I haven't used it since i figured it would damage the strings. How difficult is it to get that fixed?

  3. #13
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakota Henry View Post
    Oh I did not know that, I'll get that changed when I go to the shop next, probably soon because the wire going around my string where I attach my arrow to has broken and is now loose. It's been like this for a couple of days and I haven't used it since i figured it would damage the strings. How difficult is it to get that fixed?
    The broken "wire" that you refer to is called center serving. Just a guess, but with a bow this old it's likely that the center serving is made of monofilament which went by the wayside many years ago. Newer strings use what we commonly call fastflight serving which is much more durable. Frankly if you don't know how old the bow or the string is I'd replace the string entirely. The cables shouldn't be an issue as they are steel braided. And as Spiker suggested, use Dacron or B-50 just to be on the safe side. Older bows don't have modern limb technology so need a string that "gives" a little (stretches) when shot. Newer string materials don't possess this quality so could impart too much shock and destroy the limbs.

    A time and money allow I would also consider replacing the overdraw and get a rest attached directly to the riser (handle). With carbon arrow technology there is no reason for overdraws any more. You won't be wasting your money. Any accessories you get can always be moved to another bow in the future.
    Last edited by bfisher; 01-25-2012 at 07:05 AM.
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  4. #14
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Just got a PM from a guy on AT that had one of these. He says he remembers it being from 1988 to 1990--can't remember precisely. Apparently it was only made one year. Given this much maybe some of you history buffs can dig something up and we can help this guy better.

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    I think the Firecats first came out in 1986 or 87 but the early ones used the round slotted cable adjusters rather than the 'micro tune' units.
    There is a pic of the '88 Pro Series bows on AT History but the Firecat has different cams on it (Energy Wheels).
    Here is a link to an old Cougar that does have the Mega Wheels on it - but it doesn't state the year. http://www.armslist.com/posts/43057/...n-compound-bow

    There is also a set of the modules for the Mega Wheels listed on e-bay. (they were lettered A-G)
    Also a few online bow shops have the modules sets listed too...

    Since it doesn't appear to be an '88 and the Sonic Wheels and Z cams came out in the early '90's - it may be an '89 or maybe '90.

  6. #16
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    So are the cams on my bow good or are they outdated?

  7. #17
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakota Henry View Post
    So are the cams on my bow good or are they outdated?
    I would definitely say they are outdated, but that isn't a bad thing. Heck, most people today consider a bow 3 years old outdated. If you can get it set up for you and it fills your needs then who cares what others think? Look at it this way. About 35 years ago a compound bow was built with a riser, two limbs, some cables and string, and wheels (cams). They still are the same way today although all the parts have been improved for speed and durability---and in some cases technically problematic.

    If your goal is to use this as a hunting bow then have no worries. I shot many compound bows back in the early 70's and they were all capable of downing the game of my choice.
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  8. #18
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    I shoot a martin firecat, exact same bow. It's killed a lot of game in my lifetime between when my dad and myself... He passed it down to me and I shoot the hell out of it.

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  9. #19
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I would suggest taking off the overdraw, too, if you plan on shooting carbon arrows. Carbon arrows come in various weights and spines. To determine what spine you need you should consult some of the arrow manufacturer's websites. Gold Tip has a good "Build Your Own Arrow" feture that can guide you. You'll need to know the bow's draw length setting and the draw weight you intend to shoot. Length of the arrow and point weight enter into the equation, too. The type cam you have is a soft cam or energy wheel. You need to amintain more arrow weight than required by more modern bows to ensure there's enough weight that the limbs won't self destruct. I would try to stay at or above 7 gr/lb of bow's draw weight. That means about 420 grains of total arrow weight for 60#.

    You can figure out the arrow weight as follows:

    Figure the shaft eight by multiplying the grains per inch (GPI) X shaft length.
    Add the point and insert weight. A typical insert weighs 15 gr and a 100 grain point is common.
    Then add the weight of the nock and fletching. Nocks usually weigh about 12 gr and fletching can vary from 18 gr (Blazers) to 25 gr (4" vanes).

    A couple reasons to remove the overdraw are so that you don't end up shooting arrows that are too light and the bow will be more accurate without it. Makes rest mounting easier, too as it will bolt right to the bow. Not to argue wth anybody, but considering your experience level and the string material you'll have to use (Dacron or B50) I'm going to suggest you keep the tubed peep. Many of us these days use tubeless peeps but we're using bows with sting materials that don't stretch-- a luxury you don't have with this bow.
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