Brace Height Question

[dugout]

Hey everyone;
This is a great place you have here. I'm new and this is my first occasion to post. I have a bow which is way out of spec but it shoots great. It just bugs me. The ATA is right on the money at 36.5" and the tiller is dead even top and bottom. My Brace height is 7.5" and it should be 7" by the spec. I'm measuring from the back of the string to the deepest portion of the grip up high under the shelf. It's a 97 Jaguar with the R580, 28" DL UniCam if it matters. It's a two track Idler; the Cable and String are separate. The Cam seems to be position correctly at rest and at full draw. I'm Stumped. Am I measuring wrong? I measured DL wrong for years until I RTM... DUH!

Thanks

[Spiker]

Hey everyone;
This is a great place you have here. I'm new and this is my first occasion to post. I have a bow which is way out of spec but it shoots great. It just bugs me. The ATA is right on the money at 36.5" and the tiller is dead even top and bottom. My Brace height is 7.5" and it should be 7" by the spec. I'm measuring from the back of the string to the deepest portion of the grip up high under the shelf. It's a 97 Jaguar with the R580, 28" DL UniCam if it matters. It's a two track Idler; the Cable and String are separate. The Cam seems to be position correctly at rest and at full draw. I'm Stumped. Am I measuring wrong? I measured DL wrong for years until I RTM... DUH!

Thanks

When you measure your tiller - run a string (dental floss works great!) from the top axle to the bottom axle and then measure to it - Not to the bow string.
Adjust your limbs so the tiller is even to the dental floss - now see what your brace height comes to.

[dugout]

When you measure your tiller - run a string (dental floss works great!) from the top axle to the bottom axle and then measure to it.

Yes, thank you, that is exactly how I measure tiller and as stated it is dead even. I have 4 oz sinkers on my floss and it works great if one has trouble keeping the floss tight.
I am puzzled by the brace height; that is measured differently and referenced to the Bow String, correct?

[bfisher]

Hey dugout, welcome to the Tech Forums. Glad to see you here.

In answer, when you say you are measuring BH to the back of the string do you mean to the side facing you or the riser? It should be the side closest to the riser. In any case, as much as it may bother you, I'm not sure I'd mess with it a whole lot if it's shooting well. Bow specs are usually a close approximation of where a bow performs it's best, but can be jiggled to suit your own needs. String and cables can be twisted around and played with to get the bow just right, but it often just isn't worth the time and effort. And you may not care for the feel of the bow afterward.

I know mybows are hardly ever "in spec". I adjust draw length, draw stop, cam orientation and such to what feels best for me. I really tweak them and sometimes for months. I just keep trying stuff to see if I can make the bow fit and feel better for me. Once I find that I measure the specs of the bow and record the data into my user manual and they are what they are. Only reason I record them is (habit) so I have base numbers to work with in the event I change the rigging----or continue the quest for the perfect feel.

[dugout]

... when you say you are measuring BH to the back of the string do you mean to the side facing you or the riser?

Sorry, the side of the string facing me. The 7.5" is long/wrong by the width of the string.

In any case, as much as it may bother you, I'm not sure I'd mess with it a whole lot if it's shooting well. Bow specs are usually a close approximation of where a bow performs it's best, but can be jiggled to suit your own needs. String and cables can be twisted around and played with to get the bow just right, but it often just isn't worth the time and effort. And you may not care for the feel of the bow afterward.

Agreed, and I spend way too much time tweaking, too, probably, but I know how I want it to feel. I just can't imagine how ATA can be correct and BH be off 1/2". I have never shot a bow in strict spec either but I usually try to start there as base line to begin the process.
Thanks for the input.

[bfisher]

dugout, I had no idea about this cam system prior to posting so decided to Google it. Don't you do it. The specs shown are 37" a2a and 6.5" brace height. I don't know where you got your numbers and I'm not saying you're wrong. Just that what I found conflicts with yours. So as to which is right? I have no idea. I guess no we're both stumped.

[dugout]

dugout, I had no idea about this cam system prior to posting so decided to Google it. Don't you do it. The specs shown are 37" a2a and 6.5" brace height. I don't know where you got your numbers and I'm not saying you're wrong. Just that what I found conflicts with yours. So as to which is right? I have no idea. I guess no we're both stumped.

Are we talking about the same Bow, M-63,
Well I get those numbers from the inside of my manual and here:
M-63 JAGUAR™ UNICAM™
Absolutely the best single cam value on the market! It's definitly time to check out the new Jaguar™ UniCam™! Leave it to Martin to deliver a high performance, light weight, single cam bow at such an affordable price. No other bow can match, dollar for dollar, the features and value packed into the Jaguar™ UniCam™. The light, true, diecast Jaguar™ riser makes no sacrifices with its full sight window, wood grip and reflexed, modern design. Martin's UniCam™ System gives performance, adjustability and, with its dual track Idler Wheel, simplified tuning and maintanance. Shoot the single cam bow that is singling itself out against the competition! The Jaguar™ UniCam™ gives you more for much less!
FEATURES:
o High performance diecast riser design that is durable and light weight
o UniCam™ System with dual track Idler Wheel
o Two-Piece Torque-Free Wood Grip
o Patented Lock Mount Arrow Rest System™
Martin's Innovative UniCam? system is unique. Most manufacturers use a 100 inch string that is subject to stretching and inconsistencies due to heat and adverse weather. The Martin UniCam? employs a dual track Idler wheel. With the dual track, the string length is cut in half. The string terminates in the Idler wheel instead of looping over the wheel. This eliminates the floating nock phenomenon common with other brands.


YOUR CHOICE OF:
o Standard 80% let-off or optional 65% let-off
o Attractive target finishes or popular camo patterns

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
W/Unicams™
Let-Off 80% (optional 65%)
Axle-to-Axle 36 1/2"
Mass Weight 4 lb. 3 oz.
Brace Height 7"
Sight Window 5 1/2"
Peak Weights 40 to 80#
Draw Lengths 26" to 32"
IBO Speed Ratings 305 FPS*

(*I.B.O. Speed Rating using 30", 70# and 350 grain arrow. Speeds will vary according to draw weight/arrow weight combination. For Example: speeds of over 330 fps have been recorded with 30", 80# and 400 grain arrow.)




UNICAM
STRING & DRAW
LENGTH CHARTS
8/4/97
Unicam String Chart
Bow Model String Return Split

M-55 CHEETAH 56 44 38
M-34 PROWLER 60 48 42
M-63 JAGUAR 56 44 38
M-47 FIRECAT 60 48 42
M-29 BENGAL 55 43 37

Unicam Draw Lengths
M-63 Jaguar
Cam, R581 / R465, 28" Draw Length
*R_65 Numbers Are For 65% Let-Off
*R_81 Numbers Are For 80% Let-Off

[bfisher]

The model # is the same, but there isn't as much detail. The cam is called the UniMax cam. Try Gooling it (1997 Martin Jaguar). Click on UniMax on the left side. See if it looks the same.

I will say this. It's often enough that specs change between the time the catalog are printed and the bow actually hit the market. Sometimes you don't know what to believe.

With all the detailed info you have in your manual I'd stick to it. I'm not trying to confuse you here. I'm trying to learn, too.

[dugout]

The model # is the same, but there isn't as much detail. The cam is called the UniMax cam. Try Gooling it (1997 Martin Jaguar). Click on UniMax on the left side. See if it looks the same. I will say this. It's often enough that specs change between the time the catalog are printed and the bow actually hit the market. Sometimes you don't know what to believe. With all the detailed info you have in your manual I'd stick to it. I'm not trying to confuse you here. I'm trying to learn, too.

No problem, the unicam and unimax cams are different. If I ever had a complaint about Martin it would be the scramble they make of like terms in their models.
I go through this every time I order strings so I know it's a mess. I just looked and the UNIMAX came in 1998. The Unicam may have been a one year deal in 97.