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Thread: What kind of rest is best?

  1. #1
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    Default What kind of rest is best?

    Hey guys,
    I'm looking at getting a new rest very soon because mine isn't very reliable or accurate. My arrows don't sit right on it and the black part of it that it sits on chews up my vanes and destroys my feather and I think there Is way to much contact between the arrow and the rest. I have been looking around and I have three styles that I think would fix this. The problem is I'm not sure what one is best? I have pictures of them, there is a QuickTune capture rest, a drop away rest, and a wicker biscuit. I was wondering if maybe you guys could tell me which is the best and what the perks and disadvantages are of them, remember I have the Martin Firecat Pro Series 4000 soviet also has to be compatible with that (unless it will fit all of the different kinds). Sadly the pictures won't upload at the moment, if necessary I can try again later.
    Thanks,
    Dakota

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Arrow Splitter's Avatar
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    There are some not-so-good rests, but most of the time an arrow rest is going to be personal preference. Some factors to consider: What is the rest going to be used for? (Hunting, Target, 3D?) If you plan to hunt, will you be stalking, sitting in a blind, or in a treestand?
    A capture rest would serve you well in most hunting situations, since there is less chance of the arrow falling off the rest. For target and 3D, a dropaway or prong-style arrow rest will work best.

    The whisker biscuit has three main disadvantages: It can mess vanes up (especially when the vanes aren't glued at the tips), its accuracy decreases at longer yardages, and the biscuit does wear out(it is replaceable). Advantages include the fact that the arrow can't fall off the rest, it's very accurate at short to medium range, and it provides a quiet draw.

    The Quictune 360 works well for many people, and minimizes the chances of the arrow falling off the rest. The downside that I experienced was the piece the arrow sits on repeatedly wore off on one side. This may have been due to the way my bow shot and my lesser knowledge of compound bows at the time. NAP has probably updated the rest since then (that was over four years ago). I have to mention that NAP has excellent customer service, and they gave me a Quicktune 2100 dropaway to replace the 360.

    Dropaway arrow rests in general work well. Keep in mind that they are a mechanical device and some people including myself have experienced some issues, namely the laucher arm not dropping fast enough. Most dropaway rests that I've seen reviews for don't seem to have this problem though. I believe that if you know how to adjust a dropaway there shouldn't be a problem.

    I hope this helps.

    A.S
    Last edited by Arrow Splitter; 03-12-2012 at 06:26 AM.
    2011 Martin Firecat 400/NAP Apache Dropaway/Truglo Xtreme Sight/Custom 8" Stabilizer/Victory V6 Arrows
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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    I'm a real big fan of the NAP Apache and since getting a Limb Driver set up, I'm a big fan of that as well. Pretty if I shoot any other bow or have a new rest, a Limb Driver will be my first choice. Haven't seen one of the Pro Vs yet, but everyone speaks highly of them from what I have read.
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    Senior Member Simple Life's Avatar
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    I have a Ripcord on my Firecat,no problems and it works good.I also use a WB on another bow and shot it a ton,no complaints on it either.Just got a Apache today and with all the good reviews on it ,should be good too,plus it is almost half the price of a Code Red.All boils down to personel preference.

    SL
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    For hunting I've been really happy with the QAD pro rest. I know of buddy of mine had one of the older ripcord units go south on him and replaced it with a QAD rest and since has been very happy as well.
    -2011 Martin Silencer 63# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .029 sight, Alpine Whisperflite drop away rest, Alpine 5 arrow quiver, G5 1/4" Meta Peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Warrior and Expedition Hunter (385gr), G5 Montec
    -2011 Martin Silencer, 73# 29.5", Limbsaver prism elite .019 sight, QAD Ultra Rest Pro LD, Tight Spot 5 arrow quiver, 1/4" G5 Meta peep, Carbon Express 8" stabilizer, Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 7595 camo (441gr), G5 Montec BH.

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    Senior Member EnglishKev's Avatar
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    Half of my bows are now fitted with the Limbdriver Pro rest.
    It is probably the only type of dropaway rest I will purchase in the future.
    I like the fact that speed of the bow is not an issue as you are not relying on a spring to take the rest dowm, the limb does that to ensure no fletching contact can occur.
    I use custom made 'strings' made to match the bowstring rather than D loop cord, lasts longer, no stretch and easy to adjust by twisting as you would a bowstring.
    Looks good too!

    Kev
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    I have other bows as well

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    Senior Member HawgEnvy's Avatar
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    Trophy Taker. So easy,even a Mathews shooter can tune it
    '14 ChillR 28.5"/74# Extreme Recon sight,Schaffer Opposition rest,LS modular stab, Beman ICS Hunter 340

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Almost any of those listed so far will work. I'd like to cler one thing up about droppers. No bow shoots fast enough for the fletching to hit the rest, unless it's a defective rest. Some of the first ones had a problem with hitting bottom or hitting the shelf and bouncing back up part way, thus hitting the fletching on the rebound. The other main issue is timing them correctly. If they are adjusted to come up too early in the draw cycle then they will drop too late causing fletching clearance issue. This was one of the faults with the first generation QAD and Ripcords.

    The newer Ripcord and Ripcord Code Red have a built in dampening mechanism that prevents them from rebounding. Most drop away rests are normally in the down position and raise up as you draw the bow. This means some sort of arrow holder (supplied) is needed to hold the arrow on the shelf at rest. One feature I like about the QAD and Ripcord is that they can be manually cocked in the up position. Then as the bow is drawn the cord "trips" the mechanism so it drops on the shot. Timing is still somehwat critical with these, too. If the cord is set up too short it won't let the rest drop soon enough. If the cord is set too long then it won't trip the mechanism and the rest stays up. It's not tough to get it right though. It took me about 10 minutes to mount my Code Red and adjust it properly, but then I've done a few.

    I am not pushing the Code Red on you. There a lots of options. Personally I don't even care for drop away rests, but it's what I needed to get my arrow to shoot right. There are two features I don't like about either of these two rests. One is that stupid containment" bar across the top. Easy enough to rememdy. Loosen the screw and remove it. The other is that the rests" prongs are way too long, about 1 1/4". Again, a simple cure. Take a pair of side cutters and clip them down to desired length--in my case about 3/8". Or----just leave them alone. There are lots of choices.
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    Default Red Code Install on 2012 Nemesis

    I am a newbie to archery after retiring from work. I bought a 2012 Rytera Nemesis and attempting to install a code red drop rest. I found that I needed to move a couple of components because of the position of the riser. However, I barely clear the up cable with the football fastener to the down cable. Does anyone have any suggestions to insure that the football fastener does not rub against the up cable?

    Also, is the overhead arrow containment bar necessary? Seems to get in the way when loading my arrow. Thanks.

  10. #10
    Sonny Thomas
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    Default What kind of rest is best?

    Lots of good info given, but I'd like to see your set up. I've seen pretty nasty arrow rests and they well got the job done.

    Like Barry noted, some have rebound issues. Adjusting spring tension can help some and others need a dampener on the shelf. And drop rests can be set too fast and good guidance is lost.

    Of fastening the draw cord; A tight serving does away with fasteners. Depending on the make, some want the draw cord I think too far down the down cable and creates slippage. Most all work very well with the rest fully up 1 inch before full draw.

    One of the best...Well, make your head shake is my Doodle Drop. The cord goes through the down cable just below the shelf and isn't even tied in. I left a pig tail after the draw cord knot to drive people nuts Will post pic if wanted.

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