What's "within spec" re: trad bowstring / groove alignment?

[califx200]

Test shot a new take-down today on a whim and was hooked. Got home and been living-room-drawing and noticed the bowstring doesn't seat cleany in the groove (makes a little dinging sound as the string slides over into the groove - more prominently on the upper limb) and visibly it looks like it's about a 1/2 bowstring width off to oneside when pulling. It shot great in the store but this alignment issue that I'm perceiving is driving me nuts. My Jag, ancient X100 and newer X200 all fall directly into place. Should what I'm experiencing be expected w/ a 64" bow or does something sound amiss?

[bfisher]

The string should seat cleanly in the groove when shot. Try holding the bow out infront of you lengthwise and look for a twisted limb. Might need to get new ones.

[elkslayer4x5]

How's the string itself look? Is it smoothly tapered from the loop serving down to the fade into the string? Might try flipping the loop over so that the long smooth taper is laying against the bow.

[califx200]

Can't see a twist. Just flipped the string loop around and tried swapping end to end w/ no change. Maybe I'm torquing the bow more now w/ 64" than 60"? Trying my best to pull dead-on straight but the string just doesn't want to seat cleanly. Will take it back to the shop today.

Say the bow shoots fine and my bow shop says it's fine.... how much off-centeredness (or twist) would you tolerate from a new bow? What's within spec and when does something become "limb twist"? Thanks guys.

[bfisher]

Is the string groove in the center of the limb? Measure it. I wouldn't tolerate and deviation in a new bow.

[elkslayer4x5]

As Barry said in his first post, check the bow for limb twist, string the bow and set one end on the floor and holding the other in your hand look down the string, are the limbs in line with the string? The 64" bow should be steadier in your hand than a 60" bow would be. Will also be smoother to draw and shoot. Sure, it could be that you're torquing the bow and you could also be plucking the string on release. It does seem odd that it was fine in the store and this problem began when you got it home, is it the same bow?

[califx200]

I took the bow back to the shop and they said it's fine. So I'll take their word for it. Thanks for the input here.

(As far as the shootability goes, it seems to be a pretty good out of the box bow. I sold my Jag to get this so I couldn't compare them side by side, but I feel the Saber is a noticeable step up in performance. It certainly handles my 30" draw better than the Jag and it feels like there's plenty of room to spare. The weight issue - it's noticeably heavier than the Jag but I'm shooting it better. Don't know if the weight is making the difference or if it's simply an improvement based on the increasing practice. Either way, aside from my obssession w/ the slight string pull, it's a nice, beginner friendly bow that I enjoy shooting (which is only encouraging me to get better). I'm not into tuning, I just want to go out and have some fun shooting right now, and the Jag and Saber both seem to be bows that can do that.)

[jnordwell]

with my short time shooting recurves. limb twist happens alot and not to talk bad about pro shops. most dont know much when it comes to trad bows other then selling them. .Take the bow and set it with the limb that isnt a issue on the ground away from you now with the string facing up and the limb in question in your hand. look down the string and limb tip.If you see any form of twist grasp the tip in your hand with covering the string as well twist ever so slightly in the other direction. It may take a couple of tries but should get it out. Then switch to the other limb. Take care in stringing your bow this is when 80% or more twists happen to the limbs. if at possible leave the bow strung. wont hurt them one bit. set 2 hooks,nails whatever the same the distance from floor and hang bow up by string.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GLl3...eature=related