Longshank,
I've stayed out of this fracas for a while and for my own reasons. I shoot similar specs as you in that I'm 5'8" tall and shoot right at or near 27". I don't hunt any more but have had my share of years in a treestand.
I'm not a short bow fan for several reasons. One is that I came up through the years with compounds around 48" and never lost a shot due to this excess length; that's all that was available back then and that was a lot shorter than a 60"+ recurve. That being said I also am of the opinion that I hunted a few months of the year actually taking less thn 1/2 doz shots during a season. I did a lot more shooting during what some call the off season, shooting target, field, and 3D--maybe 10,000 shots a year. So I always chose my bows with this in mind. I wanted more stable bows and this meant a longer a2a and more mass weight.
I've found that I get the most cosistent accuracy with bows about 38" long. I've owned bows as short as 32" and shot them well, but not as easily as with the longer bows. I'm finding that with today's parallel limbs and bigger cams a shorter bow can be shot accurately, but for me that means at least 32" and closer to 34" to 36" a2a. With a given cam (Nitro?) a slightly longer bow will draw just a bit smoother, too, when set to the same draw weight and length.
While we're on the subject of "smooth" let's discuss it further. Many people think that buying a smooth drawing bow set to a certain draw weight is the cat's meow. I've done my own human testing with both the Nitro/Hybrix (speed) cams as compared to the "easy" drawing MPro cams. One bow was a 2008 Martin FireCat and the other was a 2009 Moab; identical except for the cams with the Moab having the "smooth" cam. I had a chrono at my disposal and this is how I propose people compare bows.
Do not set them for a given draw weight for comparison. Set the smooth drawing bow for your desired draw weight and shoot it a bit to get used to the feel. Then shoot it over the chrono and record the speed. Now take the "hard cam" bow and do the same thing. It's probably going to be faster. Now back the weight off about 7# and chrono it again, adjust till both bows are shooting the same speed. Now alternate and shoot them both and see just how much differenc there is in draw cycles.
I'll be you won't find that hard cam bow so hard any more. And because you'll be drawing 7-8# less weight it won't wear you dwn as quickly when practicing. Longer mre frequent shooting sessions means you can work on your form and build better muscle memory and stamina; all good for hunting.
Now please consider that this is just my opinion on the subject, but is based on actual shooting of two bow identical except for the cams. Somehwere along in my career I learned to leave my ego at home when it comes to draw weight. Afterall, it's just a number and a dead deer isn't counting numbers.
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