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Thread: Anyone know the exact centershot for Onza 3

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    Default Anyone know the exact centershot for Onza 3

    messing with spine tuning my onza and was wondering if anyone has got a measurement for how far the centerline of the arrow should be from the riser.....i always thought you go with the center of the grip, but after have someone help me set up a hoyt , it seems the eact center of the grip isnt the centershot due to the cams not being in the center of the limbs....anyone have the exact measurement

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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    well tbh, the exact center is a good starting point, but the spine of the arrow will actually determine where your centershot will end up. The weaker the spine, the further to the left it will be (assuming right handed bow). This is due to the arrow flexing at launch... obviously a weaker spined arrow will flex more than a stiffer one. If you shoot a weak enough spine out of a strong enough bow you can actually break an arrow at launch!
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    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
    2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps

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    Quote Originally Posted by wscywabbit View Post
    well tbh, the exact center is a good starting point, but the spine of the arrow will actually determine where your centershot will end up. The weaker the spine, the further to the left it will be (assuming right handed bow). This is due to the arrow flexing at launch... obviously a weaker spined arrow will flex more than a stiffer one. If you shoot a weak enough spine out of a strong enough bow you can actually break an arrow at launch!
    well, here's the thing...I am spine tuning my arrows to cut them down to the eact length where the spine will be perfect for my setup....therefore, I need the rest to be in the exact centerline...i was told my hoyt should start at 3/4" from the riser which puts it to the left of center...that all makes sense since the string isnt in the exact center of the limbs and since riser torque at full draw will change the center some.....i tride the mark the center of the limb trick where you go off to the left X amount (forget what is recommended) and then made anohter mark the same distance the string is from the edge of the limb....assuming my centershot is right, my string lines up inbetween these two marks

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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    well the easiest way to find center is to take two allen heads and put them into your limb bolts, then run a string from one to the other. Then you can take an old arrow, cut it down short and use it to line up with the string....
    In God and guns we trust;
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    • A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.


    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
    2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps

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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wscywabbit View Post
    well the easiest way to find center is to take two allen heads and put them into your limb bolts, then run a string from one to the other. Then you can take an old arrow, cut it down short and use it to line up with the string....
    http://martinarchery.com/mtechforum/...he-center-shot!

    Hutch posted this, remember seeing it a while ago. Might help?
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    Am I correct in that due to the fact that the string is not in the center of the cam and due to the fact that a riser will be twisted at full draw...that the exact center of the handle really isnt the centershot of the bow?

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    Yer on the right track.

    I would set the cs at 7/8" from the bridge between the berger holes to the center of your arrow.
    Then, if it is a target bow, shoot thru paper at 10-15-20yds and/or walkback tune and adjust the rest till you get the results you want.
    If it is for hunting, just broadhead tune it till you get the same poi with fp's and bh's.
    If it won't walkback tune with fieldpoints or, won't put fp's and bh's at the same poi - then you have a spine or other issue.

    There really isn't a perfect centershot measurement. Maybe if it is being shot out of a machine - but...
    It depends on how you shoot, your arrow, the accs, whats on your string etc, and the bow itself.

    I have 2 pairs of identical bows and the tune is different on each of them. - - - Really really close but, just a hair different.

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Spikeer is right. I pulled a lot of hair out over this issue a couple years ago with my 2008 FireCat. First I lined the rest up using a laser and it would not tune. Then I just eyeballed it and set the centershot in line with the cam grooves (left of physicl center of the bow) and I remember it being about 1 1/16". The bow shot terribly. It wouldn't bare shaft or paper tune. Si I just gave up and set it for 13/16" and shot the bow. Being as I don't hunt anymore trying to tune for broadheads isn't and issue. I did get the bow shooting decent though.

    Then I got a 2010 Alien Z and then a 2011 Nemisis. Same issues as before so I just set the centershot for best arrow flight and grouping and let it go at that. Both bows shoot wonderfully with the rest somewhere inside center.

    Now FYI I do not grip a bow so hand torque shouldn't be the problem. I also tried about nine different rests, blades and drop aways with similar results. I differen spined arrows, 600 spine all the way to a 300 spine and they all act the same. Moved the rests over a span greater than 1/2". Nothing changed. Luckily I know ABOUT where to set a rest initially so that's what I do. Then I shoot the bow and don't worry about it.

    It's just like usng a chronograph to check everything. Tune and supertune a bow all you want and keep checking the speeds. A certain bow set up for a certain arrow at a given draw length and draw weight is only going to produce a certain amount of speed. Set it up, tune it, and shoot it while forgetting those things that get so frustrating.
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