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    Senior Member cmwr's Avatar
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    Default paper tuning success but still have a question

    I built a paper tune rack today and did my first paper tune. I started at 5-10 feet or so and when i was shooting bullet holes i moved to 10 yards and was still shooting good holes. I was reading how to do it out of an older Martin owners manual in the back section it told how to paper tune. Keep in mind I am left handed so the actions were reversed for me. I started with a right tear (fletchings going through to the right of POI). Here's what the owners manual says in a quote:
    Right tear
    (fletching tears to the right of point)
    This tear may signal:

    Note:If you are left handed do these steps in reverse.

    Release
    Arrow rest too far to the right
    Move arrow rest to the left

    Since I am LH I reversed this and moved my rest to the right but the more I moved it the worse it got. Moving my rest to the right gained me nothing. So I moved it back to original starting place and started moving it to the left and thats when I started gaining. I ended up a few clicks to the left of where I started. In the end i was shooting clean holes. I dialed in my sight at 10 yards. Then I moved to 20 and the same pin was hitting good. By this time I was getting a tad shaky so my 30 yard shots were not steady enough for me to base anything on.

    Anyone know why my adjustments were the opposite of what the book said I should be doing?
    Martin Silencer,Nitrous cams, NAP Apache rest, Tru Glo sight
    Martin Speed Demon, Z Cams, NAP drop away rest, Extreme sight
    Gold Tip shafts, Twister vanes, NAP Shockwaves

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    Typo..... thats for spring buttons and moving them toward or away from the riser
    2010 rytera x. apache rest, truglo 5pin. 8in shockbocker 1000 stabilizer. norway g2 string tamer Huch-n-Son strings
    2010 rytera z apache carbon rest axt primal x5 sight

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    Senior Member cmwr's Avatar
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    That sounds about right considering the vintage of this manual (90s) Thanks.
    Martin Silencer,Nitrous cams, NAP Apache rest, Tru Glo sight
    Martin Speed Demon, Z Cams, NAP drop away rest, Extreme sight
    Gold Tip shafts, Twister vanes, NAP Shockwaves

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Here's a question that might help answer yours. How does an arrow know it's being shot from a RH or LH bow? Also I like to point out that in Easton's Tuning Guide, next to last paragraph at the bottom of page 7 it states that release shooters SOMETIMES get an opposite reaction from what finger shooters do, so adjust accordingly.

    As with so many things about these stupid bows nothing is written in stone. You adjust whatever needs adjusted in whatever direction gives the best results and just accept it. Commit it to memory for the future.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    Here's a question that might help answer yours. How does an arrow know it's being shot from a RH or LH bow? Also I like to point out that in Easton's Tuning Guide, next to last paragraph at the bottom of page 7 it states that release shooters SOMETIMES get an opposite reaction from what finger shooters do, so adjust accordingly.

    As with so many things about these stupid bows nothing is written in stone. You adjust whatever needs adjusted in whatever direction gives the best results and just accept it. Commit it to memory for the future.
    +1.
    Altho I do think the arrow acts a bit differently between left and right hand bows only because the pull from the cables is in opposite directions.
    (unless your shooting an 'X' system )

    Another thing is that with a riser that is cut past center and using a release - the 'archers paradox' is greatly reduced.

    Still - as Barry says - adjust it however makes it shoot straight. That is the goal - it dont really matter how you get there.

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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    Just like Barry and Spiker said, these things aren't written in stone and what works for one setup may not work with another. I generally figure that if I move one way with no results, its time to go the other way. If I'm still not getting the results I want, there's something else at work (fletching contact, drop away not dropping fast enough, etc). All you can do is try and go from there!
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    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
    2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps

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