fine tuning draw length with string selection

[cmwr]

This is in regards to my old bow with Z cams. The only issue I have is the slightly spongy wall these cams have at full draw. Can a person order a new string that is 1/2" shorter to fine tune their draw length to try and remedy this?

Example: I have a 28" draw length. Can I buy a shorter string and change the draw length to 27 1/2 or 27 3/4?

By doing this would it cause the spongy wall to feel like its gone? I mean by drawing 1/4-1/2" shorter, would it force you to draw back the full 28" thus pulling past the sponge till you hit the wall?

The whole reason I asked is cause it seems like I have read where people twist their string to shorten it to tweak their draw length to measurements that their bow can not adjust to.

[Hutch~n~Son Archery]

This is in regards to my old bow with Z cams. The only issue I have is the slightly spongy wall these cams have at full draw. Can a person order a new string that is 1/2" shorter to fine tune their draw length to try and remedy this?

Example: I have a 28" draw length. Can I buy a shorter string and change the draw length to 27 1/2 or 27 3/4?

By doing this would it cause the spongy wall to feel like its gone? I mean by drawing 1/4-1/2" shorter, would it force you to draw back the full 28" thus pulling past the sponge till you hit the wall?

The whole reason I asked is cause it seems like I have read where people twist their string to shorten it to tweak their draw length to measurements that their bow can not adjust to.

Short stringing is nothing new. People have been doing it for sometime. It will change the draw cycle and the let off a bit, and it will shorten the draw length and end the cycle quicker.



Hutch

[cmwr]

How do you know how much to shorten it and will shortening your draw in small increments make the spongy wall disappear since you are being forced to draw the extra amount to attain your comfortable draw. I figured that if you weren't sitting comfortable in the valley, like I do now with the bow set at my proper draw length, that the sponginess wouldn't be felt.

[cmwr]

Doing some research after I posted and I am finding out that shortening a string too much is not recommended cause of different effects one of which is extra limb preload which could lead to limb failure. I wonder if I should buy the recommended length string and just add some twists to tweak it after it stretches initially. I really want to just get rid of the spongy wall this bow has. I am getting spoiled by my new one with the draw stop lol.

I even thought about searching for some used fury cams as I heard those had a rock solid wall. But there again spending more money................I would like to just make my z cams feel better at full draw and save myself a big headache and expense.

[Hutch~n~Son Archery]

You twist the string you have on it now until you get it to where you want it, then you measure it off the bow stretched at 100lbs.






Hutch

[cmwr]

Ok I haven't gotten my bow back from the dippers yet and a new set is gonna be ordered.

[elkslayer4x5]

Is there any way that you could install a draw stop on your Z cams? My Nitrous cams have a slightly 'bouncy' back wall, that I can pull into, but what is happing then is the string is bending around the flat string stops, so I bounce off the back wall back into the valley and hold against the semi soft wall. Does'nt your Silencer have Nitro cams, or did you swap them for Nitrous cams?

[cmwr]

No it has nitro cams with a draw stop it is a rock solid wall. But my second bow that is on its way back from Hanover Hydrographics, is an older model with Z cams. I am looking for ways to improve the spongy wall on that bow.

[archerx7]

Theres not really a lot that can be done to make a harder wall on the older dual cams, the Z cams had a really soft wall, the Fury cams would be a minor improvement but still would be nothing comparable to having a draw stop peg like what you have on the Nitro/Hybrix cams. About the only things you could do to improve the wall would be to make sure the cams are perfectly in time so they both roll into the mod stops at the same time, and it sometimes helps to increase the strand count on the cables which will give a bit firmer wall, but will slightly decrease the letoff by a few percent.

[cmwr]

Theres not really a lot that can be done to make a harder wall on the older dual cams, the Z cams had a really soft wall, the Fury cams would be a minor improvement but still would be nothing comparable to having a draw stop peg like what you have on the Nitro/Hybrix cams. About the only things you could do to improve the wall would be to make sure the cams are perfectly in time so they both roll into the mod stops at the same time, and it sometimes helps to increase the strand count on the cables which will give a bit firmer wall, but will slightly decrease the letoff by a few percent.

Very interesting. Whats the theory behind the strand count? That does not even seem logical but I am sure you know more than I.