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Thread: Homemade B Stinger Tutorial

  1. #1
    Senior Member cmwr's Avatar
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    Default Homemade B Stinger Tutorial

    This is a brief tutorial of how I have been making my homemade B Stingers. I posted this on Archery talk as well and wanted to get it on here but just now have had the time. The aluminum tube can be bought at wal mart in the form of a telescoping golf ball retriever or a telescoping trecking pole. The nice thing about the trecking poles is they come in all sorts of cool anodized colors. For this tutorial I used a golf ball retriever and it is silver. Both poles will cost you 13 bucks a piece at wal mart.

    What you will need is a piece of 5/8" aluminum tubing, a 5/16X 1 1/2X 24 allen head bolt, 3 5/16X24 nuts, an extra 5/16 nut of any thread pitch, a 1/4X20 coarse thread long nut, a tubing cutter, sandpaper, JB Weld, super glue, a 1/4X20 coarse thread bolt, some packing foam, a pocket knife, a small file, and some 1/4X2" fender washers for the end weight.

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    The first step is to cut your tube to length. Then take a pocket knife debur the inside of the tube as the tubing cutters have a tendency to flare the tube inwards. Then take your sandpaper and sand the inside of both ends really well as well as removing the razor sharp edge on each end.

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    Then take your packing foam and use your tube as a cookie cutter. The foam used here is inside a dish network reciever box on new receivers. I get it at work.Slowly put light downward pressure on the foam as you spin the tube back and forth in a twisting motion just like your cutting cookies. The tube will cut through the foam as you twist and you will have a nice little plug of foam inside your tube. Do this as many times as you need to fill your tube with foam leaving a small amount on each end for your inserts. I like to actaully compress the foam together when I stick my second insert in and glue it.

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    Take your 1 1/2 allen bolt and thread your 3 nuts on all the way and tighten with a wrench. Notice the grind marke on the nuts. I like to grind divets in each nut on the FLATS ONLY to give the JB Weld something to really bite into. The reason it is flats only is because the 5/16 nuts fit perfectly inside a 5/8" tube so the nuts are being used to hold everything square and plum while the jb weld dries. The JB weld fills in the areas between the flats and the tube. Take a small file and just "knock" each point of each nut with it to scuff it a little. This will still give you a snug fit inside the tube but not so snug that you need pliers to pull it should something need changed. also take your 1/4 long nut and grind divets on it as well. On it it doesn't matter if you grind divets on the points as it doesn't fit snug. More on that later.

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    Last edited by cmwr; 05-20-2012 at 04:43 PM.
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    Senior Member cmwr's Avatar
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    IMG_5254.JPG

    Clean and degrease your stud and nuts and let dry. Mix up some JB Weld really good. I prefer to use regular JB Weld instead of JB Quick. It takes overnight to dry but it is a stronger bond.Then generously roll the stud in JB Weld and insert down into your tube end till the last nut is flush with the end of the tube. Carefully use your finger and wipe any excess that overflows off the end of the tube. (remember I said to use sandpaper to remove razor sharp edge from tube ends?) Set aside and let dry for several hours.

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    You remember in my parts list I listed an extra 5/16 nut? Well here is why. Since the 1/4" long nut is so small inside the 5/8" tube, the extra nut is used to center the long nut and keep it straight and plum while the JB Weld dries. Here's what we do. Sand and scuff the bases of each nut. Lightly apply 4 drops of super glue to the 5/16 nut as it sits on a flat surface. Then very carefully and meticulously put the 2 together making sure the 1/4 long nut is centered on the 5/16 nut as perfectly as possible to make sure the long nut is not sitting crooked on top of the 5/16 nut. Then mix up some more JB Weld and apply a small amount all around the base of the 1/4 long nut and let it flow down onto the 5/16 nut. Carefully scrape any excess that may run over the side of the 5/16 nut and let dry overnight.

    IMG_5261.JPGIMG_5275.JPG
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    Senior Member cmwr's Avatar
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    Now that the JB weld is dry, Carefully take your small file and just knock the points off the 5/16 nut so the nut fits snug inside the tube, but not so snug you can barely slide it in. Thread in your 1/4 bolt all the way to the end of the 1/4 long nut so as to protect the threads from getting JB Weld inside them. The 1/4 nut also acts as a level. In other words after you got it in and the JB is drying, spin your tube around slowly looking at the protruding bolt and use it as a guage to make sure your insert is square in the tube. If it is crooked, carefull adjust to make straight.Mix up some JB Weld and generously roll the entire nut in the JB, then insert the nut into the other tube end all the way to flush.(I actually prefer to recess it about 1/8" below the surface then cover the entire top with more JB Weld.) Now even though the JB Is thick, it will still flow downhill and continue to burp out air pockets. If you did your foam inserts right, you should have them slightly compressed and they should act as a barrier to keep the JB Weld from flowing any further inside the tube. I had to keep topping off the JB weld every 5 minutes until it quit burping out air.

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    Well here is a pic of the finished product. The empty bar weighs in 2.5 ounces for a 10.25" bar. Each washer weighs .8 ounces. So you can do the math on that.

    IMG_5278.JPG
    Martin Silencer,Nitrous cams, NAP Apache rest, Tru Glo sight
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  4. #4
    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Great job!! looks pretty simple by sharp looking when done.




    Hutch
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  5. #5
    Senior Member cmwr's Avatar
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    Thanks Hutch. The only issue so far is the thickness of the washers to get the desired weight due to their smaller diameter. With my wifes bow, and a 10.5" bar, and a QD I just bought her, from the riser to the head of the weight bolt it is 12 1/4". I need to find a thinner, bigger diameter weight. That or build a slightly shorter bar to compensate for the QD. But the stabilizer works very well otherwise.

    I want to thank my awesome wife, Marla, for taking all the pictures.
    Last edited by cmwr; 05-20-2012 at 05:07 PM.
    Martin Silencer,Nitrous cams, NAP Apache rest, Tru Glo sight
    Martin Speed Demon, Z Cams, NAP drop away rest, Extreme sight
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  6. #6
    String builder/ Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Don't know but can you use Nylon washers to vary the weight a little at a time. Might be out there on this just a thought.




    Hutch
    Bow String Depot Custom String Builders
    Need a string set pm or email me @ bowstringdepot@gmail.com
    or check us out @ http://bowstringdepot.com

  7. #7
    Senior Member Simple Life's Avatar
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    Looks good cmwr,might have to try that one this winter.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member cmwr's Avatar
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    Lol thanks. Why wait till winter. It took me about an hour to make not including drying time. If you buy a golf ball retriever, you can get about 3 12" stabs out of one section. There is several sections to it of different tube diameters so if you used your imagination you can make alot. I actually like the first ones I built using the trecking poles. They come in several different cool colors like orange, black, purple and a few others. One of my first ones I sprayed with NAPA spray can undercoating and let dry. It was a semi hard/rubbery coating. It was for hunting.
    Martin Silencer,Nitrous cams, NAP Apache rest, Tru Glo sight
    Martin Speed Demon, Z Cams, NAP drop away rest, Extreme sight
    Gold Tip shafts, Twister vanes, NAP Shockwaves

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