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Thread: New Nemisis

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Default New Nemisis

    My 2012 Nemisis arrived yesterday. Red riser, black carbon limbs (Barnesdale) , and those gaudy fl. green/black strings. They gotta go. Where ya at Hutch?

    I'm really having trouble choosing string colors. Anybody on here seen a red riser? They aren't what I'd call red. More like blood red. Very close to BCY Mountain Berry. I don't know whether to go with Mt. Berry and maybe Fl. Green speckled or something that contrasts with the bow.

    The present strings won't go to waste as the ones on my 2011 Nemisis are starting to show a little wear and tear. Afterall, it's probably only got 8,000 shots on it right now. I hate the idea of having to change the strings and start tuning all over again even though I measure everything. Maybe I'll just save these new ones till after the new bow is set up and shooting to my satisfaction.

    Don't expect pics too soon. Nothing until this thing is set up. One fo the first things needing down is the magical sand paper machining of the cam grooves. Sometyhing I neglected to do with the 2011 model. Also have to contact Joel and order the carbon STS as it came through with the older model.
    Last edited by bfisher; 06-23-2012 at 10:45 AM.
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    Congrats bfischer, I would love to get a Nemisis. I was looking at one at my LGS, it was last years still new for 499.00. Don't know if that's a good price or not, but it looked nice. Enjoy your new bow.

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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    Nice Barry. Can't wait to see it when you get it put together. As for colors, I'm with you on the green not really going with the red riser. Maybe try the black cherry and flame? or maybe a dark red like black cherry or mountain berry and white or silver/black for contrast...
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    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    Time to make a decision Barry.
    100_1864.JPG100_1865.JPG100_1866.JPG100_1867.JPG


    The lower right hand pic is the one I bet.





    Hutch
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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    String builder/ Super Moderator Hutch~n~Son Archery's Avatar
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    One thing to remember Barry. You can always do a Solid color with a pinstripe down the center of it. Like Mt berry and a flo green pinstripe or black as the pinstripe. If you need samples let me know.




    Hutch
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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch~n~Son Archery View Post
    What's the top one here Hutch? Mt Berry and Silver?
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    Default Bow tune

    First nice looking bow next do you get a left tear when shooting through paper standing back about 5-6 yrds? I did with my Alien Z that's why the question. Anyway shoot your best!

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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z-MAN View Post
    First nice looking bow next do you get a left tear when shooting through paper standing back about 5-6 yrds? I did with my Alien Z that's why the question. Anyway shoot your best!
    OK, I can give some explanation as to what I've run into trying to bare shaft tune all my Rytera bows, but first let me tell you that paper tuning should not be done at 5-6 yards. It should be done at various distances beginning at about 3-4'.

    I'll try to explain things as I go along, because I rarey paper tune. I bare shaft tune if at all possible. The last couple years I've adhered to arrow charts and computer programs to pick my arrows and compnents and found that they don't work for me. I ave an 2010 Alien Z, a 2011 Nemisis and now a 2012 Nemisis.

    Tried bare shaft tuning all of them the last couple years to no avail. I have shot draw weights from 42# up to 50#and 26.5 to 27" draw. Arrows included Gold Tip Ultralites in 600 (45 to 80 gr target tips), 500 with 80 gr tips, 400 with 80 gr tips, and 22 Series (300 spine) with 80 gr tips and 125 gr screw in points. Moving rest as much as 1/4" outside center to 1/4" inside center.

    Just like paper tuning I started close (6') and worked my way back to 15 yards. No matter what shafts or adjustments I made they always planed 6" to 8" right at 15 yards, which is the same as showing a left tear in paper. Once shot a 600 shaft at 20 yards and between 15 and 20 yards it took a hard right turn, missed to Morrell Range bag and headed for parts unknown. Frustrated I gave up on bare shafting and just set them up to shoot and shoot them I did.

    Now along comes this red riser monster and it feels different so I thought I'd give it a go again. Pretty much the same results as th last couple years. This time I started thinking outside the bow and do something radical. I tried a UL-600, 27" long and put in an insert and 100 gr screw-in point. Ah-ha the eqivalent of 115gr up front and the shaft looked better. Cranked the bow from 44.5# to 47# and it got even better. Just for sh**s and giggles I screwed in a 125 gr point, the eqivalent of a 140gr target point. That arrow flew like a dart. Almost perfectly stright with the fletched shafts and the same point of impact.

    That's when I quit. I think that alittle more experimenting would show that this would be a perfect combination at about 48#. The truth is I do not desire to shoot that much weight, and to maintain some speed I do not want to shoot that heavy of a point. At leas I now have a handle on what's happening and what to do about it. If I want perfect flight I'll have to get arrows with about a 700 spine, maybe even 800 and play with point and bow weight.

    Now let me clarify that these are all target/3D bows so penetration for killing is not an issue. I don't hunt any more. In fact, having left my ego a few hundred thousand shots ago I figure the less penetration I get the better. Arrows are a whole lot easier to remove from those dreaded McKenzies.

    So what's my point of this long rant? A couple things. Don't be afraid to think differently and do something drastic to see what happens. At least you'll be able to see if something off the wall works. The other is that some people say bare shafting is worthless. It's not. You can shoot bare shafts through paper and the results will be very similar to fletched shafts. If you don't use paper then a bare shaft will act the same as shootin through paper, but you haveto understand that a shaft that makes a left tear through paper will normally plane right at further distances. And if your form is off you'll find that out pretty quick, too.

    Barry
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    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    i did when for bareshaft tuning last 2 days of the weekend.
    as i got my new arrow, and rest. before fletching the arrows. i did try to shoot the bareshaft.

    although i manage to get the rest move to the center for the arrow to fly straight at 5 yards. But to 10 yard and 15 yards, the arrow is planing to the left.

    perhaps as wat Bfisher said. try something drastic. will take your advice to try on some heavier FP see wat is the outcome like.

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