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Thread: New Nemisis

  1. #21
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    OK, I have my string colors all picked out. NO, I ain't saying what it is. Now I have to order the set.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  2. #22
    Super Moderator Arrow Splitter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    OK, I have my string colors all picked out. NO, I ain't saying what it is. Now I have to order the set.
    I know! I know!
    2011 Martin Firecat 400/NAP Apache Dropaway/Truglo Xtreme Sight/Custom 8" Stabilizer/Victory V6 Arrows
    2007 Martin Jaguar /Trophy Taker Dropaway/Extreme Sight/Custom 21" Stabilizer/Victory V6 Arrows
    Bow String Depot, Custom String Builders email us @ bowstringdepot@gmail.com

  3. #23
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    GREAT looking bow Barry.!!!

    If it twas mine I'd do Black and Silver with two strands of Black Cherry clear Halo and BC center serving...

  4. #24
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arrow Splitter View Post
    I know! I know!
    Thanks Spiker. Brad, you better keep your trap shut. Don't make me take a trip up your way to kick your butt. I printed out the forms your dad sent me. Have to double check my measurements and then send them via slow mail. Probably tomorrow.

    I just got back from the club---again. I shot both bows and this new one shoots differently, for sure---in a better way. The a2a is only
    1/16" longer and the draw length seems shorter, bu more solid. Thee must be the slightest difference in the draw stop setting. The back wall is more solid so I'm betting the draw stop is set a touch too long on the older bow. I borrowed a chronograph, but it needs a battery so I'll be posting speeds when I get them.
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  5. #25
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    the red is dark.

    but still looks good.

    Maybe under the sun when shooting outdoor, the bow will looks bright.

    If its bright in color, then you need pair of sunglasses while shooting outdoor.

    hahaha

  6. #26
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Don't want or need sunglasses. I wouldn't be able to see anything. I can't even see through my peep with my regular glasses. I get images of two pins and don't know which one to use for aiming. Besides, when I'm standing at full draw all I see is the pin and the target beyond that. I don't see my peep or the bow at all.
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  7. #27
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    The bow looks great Barry.

  8. #28
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    Default Bow tune

    First nice looking bow next do you get a left tear when shooting through paper standing back about 5-6 yrds? I did with my Alien Z that's why the question. Anyway shoot your best!

  9. #29
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z-MAN View Post
    First nice looking bow next do you get a left tear when shooting through paper standing back about 5-6 yrds? I did with my Alien Z that's why the question. Anyway shoot your best!
    OK, I can give some explanation as to what I've run into trying to bare shaft tune all my Rytera bows, but first let me tell you that paper tuning should not be done at 5-6 yards. It should be done at various distances beginning at about 3-4'.

    I'll try to explain things as I go along, because I rarey paper tune. I bare shaft tune if at all possible. The last couple years I've adhered to arrow charts and computer programs to pick my arrows and compnents and found that they don't work for me. I ave an 2010 Alien Z, a 2011 Nemisis and now a 2012 Nemisis.

    Tried bare shaft tuning all of them the last couple years to no avail. I have shot draw weights from 42# up to 50#and 26.5 to 27" draw. Arrows included Gold Tip Ultralites in 600 (45 to 80 gr target tips), 500 with 80 gr tips, 400 with 80 gr tips, and 22 Series (300 spine) with 80 gr tips and 125 gr screw in points. Moving rest as much as 1/4" outside center to 1/4" inside center.

    Just like paper tuning I started close (6') and worked my way back to 15 yards. No matter what shafts or adjustments I made they always planed 6" to 8" right at 15 yards, which is the same as showing a left tear in paper. Once shot a 600 shaft at 20 yards and between 15 and 20 yards it took a hard right turn, missed to Morrell Range bag and headed for parts unknown. Frustrated I gave up on bare shafting and just set them up to shoot and shoot them I did.

    Now along comes this red riser monster and it feels different so I thought I'd give it a go again. Pretty much the same results as th last couple years. This time I started thinking outside the bow and do something radical. I tried a UL-600, 27" long and put in an insert and 100 gr screw-in point. Ah-ha the eqivalent of 115gr up front and the shaft looked better. Cranked the bow from 44.5# to 47# and it got even better. Just for sh**s and giggles I screwed in a 125 gr point, the eqivalent of a 140gr target point. That arrow flew like a dart. Almost perfectly stright with the fletched shafts and the same point of impact.

    That's when I quit. I think that alittle more experimenting would show that this would be a perfect combination at about 48#. The truth is I do not desire to shoot that much weight, and to maintain some speed I do not want to shoot that heavy of a point. At leas I now have a handle on what's happening and what to do about it. If I want perfect flight I'll have to get arrows with about a 700 spine, maybe even 800 and play with point and bow weight.

    Now let me clarify that these are all target/3D bows so penetration for killing is not an issue. I don't hunt any more. In fact, having left my ego a few hundred thousand shots ago I figure the less penetration I get the better. Arrows are a whole lot easier to remove from those dreaded McKenzies.

    So what's my point of this long rant? A couple things. Don't be afraid to think differently and do something drastic to see what happens. At least you'll be able to see if something off the wall works. The other is that some people say bare shafting is worthless. It's not. You can shoot bare shafts through paper and the results will be very similar to fletched shafts. If you don't use paper then a bare shaft will act the same as shootin through paper, but you haveto understand that a shaft that makes a left tear through paper will normally plane right at further distances. And if your form is off you'll find that out pretty quick, too.

    Barry
    If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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  10. #30
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    i did when for bareshaft tuning last 2 days of the weekend.
    as i got my new arrow, and rest. before fletching the arrows. i did try to shoot the bareshaft.

    although i manage to get the rest move to the center for the arrow to fly straight at 5 yards. But to 10 yard and 15 yards, the arrow is planing to the left.

    perhaps as wat Bfisher said. try something drastic. will take your advice to try on some heavier FP see wat is the outcome like.

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