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Thread: Question about let off at full draw

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    Default Question about let off at full draw

    Hey all. Hoping to get some input and advice for a question I have. So at full draw my bow wants to jump a little. I have my cams all timed and the specs are good on it for ATA and BH. I still have some room for let off adjusent on my cam. Right now at full draw the let off peg is firm against the bottom limb, but if I adjust it then it doesn't come close to touching the bottm limb where the foam pad is. Does this matter at full draw? I'm strictly a hunter but shoot a little Dart System so I want as much let off as possible. Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
    2012 Rytera Nemesis - Sword Twilight Hunter Sight - QAD HD Bone Collector Drop Away - WindJammer 7" Stabilizer - 438 Grain Beman ICS Hunter Elites - G5 T3's & QAD Exodus Swept Back Version

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    Senior Member TEN RING's Avatar
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    Even in though in time they are under rotating put a couple twistes in the cables will help with that
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    So just move the let off peg all the way to the + and then put some twists into the up and down cables? I'm a little confused by the response. Some clarification would be great. Thanks!
    2012 Rytera Nemesis - Sword Twilight Hunter Sight - QAD HD Bone Collector Drop Away - WindJammer 7" Stabilizer - 438 Grain Beman ICS Hunter Elites - G5 T3's & QAD Exodus Swept Back Version

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    Senior Member TEN RING's Avatar
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    Yes the to strings that cross put 2-3 twists in each should get you close and then move the draw stop and recheck timing.
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    just move the draw stop back a little until it feels good to you. thats what it is there for. if you try to achieve a solid back wall, some bows will jerk the string out of your hand. if all you do is hunting you don't want a solid back wall because you may have to hold at full draw for several seconds on some occation . jmo
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    so what is considered too much back wall/let off?
    2012 Rytera Nemesis - Sword Twilight Hunter Sight - QAD HD Bone Collector Drop Away - WindJammer 7" Stabilizer - 438 Grain Beman ICS Hunter Elites - G5 T3's & QAD Exodus Swept Back Version

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    Kyle,

    I don't know if this will help but I'd like to start from scratch and in doing so want to correct your terminology a bit so we're all on the same page. There are essentially 3 parts to these cams. There's the cam itself, the module, and the draw stop. What you are calling the letoff peg is the draw stop. It's primary purpose is to stop the cam from over rotating although it can be used to fine tune the letoff.

    As the bow is drawn the cables roll around the module to a flat spot. When the cables reach the end of the groove in the module the bow will be at maximum letoff. It is at this point you should adjust the draw stop to hit the limb. I usually do this with the little rubber cover off the draw stop. Then put it on once the draw stop is locked down. The use of a draw board is the most precise way to do this. You can do it by feel, eye, or whatever, but it takes a bit of patience.

    If the bow's draw length is set correctly you should hit maximum letoff, the draw stop should hit the limb, and you should feel a very hard wall to hold against. In other words, the cam won't roll any more. If the wall feels a bit mushy it's probably because the draw stop is set just a touch long.

    Now let's address the bow wanting to jump forward on you. If the cams are in sync and hitting the flat of the module at the same time then I would suggest a couple causes. The draw stop is set a little short and the bow is not achieving maximum letoff. However, the most common reason is because the bow's DRAW LENGTH is set TOO LONG for you and you are not staying against the wall. Reason I say this is because most people do not draw and hold a bow correctly. Most people come to full draw, anchor, and as they aim they relax and lose just a touch of back tension, creeping forward a little. Anywhere from 1/4" to 3/8" is very common. Well, when you creep forward with today's aggressive cams they want to go. Depending on how aggressive they are the bow want to go---and I mean right now.

    There's two solutions to this. Either learn to shoot correctly. Once you establish back tension during the draw you never let up. Not even the slightest bit. This is explained very well in a book called Core Archery by Larry Wise. He's probably one of the best bow technicians in the world and a well respected professional archer. I am privileged to know him personally.

    The other way is to shorten the draw length of the bow, say 1/2" with the module and reset the draw stop accordingly and get used to a new feel the bow is going to display. Most likely it's going to feel short, but believe me when I say that you will get used to it. Maybe you only need 1/4" shorter. In this case it's simply a matter of adding some twists to the string and/or taking a couple out of the cables. It's something you have to play with.

    There are a few thing to work out here. Lets assume you are leaving the module at it's present setting. Shortening the draw by twistiing the string/untwisting cables will shorten the draw length but it will also drop the peak weight of the bow by a couple pounds. Suppose you don't want to lose that draw weight because you are into the numbers game or your ego gets in the way. In this case you can move the module to the next 1/2" shorter setting and add some twists to the cables and/or take a few out of the string. I either case you'll need to set the draw stop accordingly to achieve that solid back wall.

    There are a lot of things you can play with to achieve the feel you want from a bow. This is some of the joys of working with dual or binary cams. You can really customize just what you want.

    Barry
    Last edited by bfisher; 06-28-2012 at 07:05 AM.
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    Barry, as always, I appreciate the input, advice and the time you took to explain that stuff to me. I know my draw length is good. I am 6'4" and 285lbs so puling 70# has nothing to do with an ego. It's simply what I'm comfortable pulling. It sounds like I am just going to have to play around with this.
    2012 Rytera Nemesis - Sword Twilight Hunter Sight - QAD HD Bone Collector Drop Away - WindJammer 7" Stabilizer - 438 Grain Beman ICS Hunter Elites - G5 T3's & QAD Exodus Swept Back Version

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    I shoot 30" draw but I set the cams at 29 1/2".then set the stops back further and let it roll over to 30".this gives you a huge valley,but it will give you a hump in the draw when you drop into the valley.

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    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kylecurtis04 View Post
    Barry, as always, I appreciate the input, advice and the time you took to explain that stuff to me. I know my draw length is good. I am 6'4" and 285lbs so puling 70# has nothing to do with an ego. It's simply what I'm comfortable pulling. It sounds like I am just going to have to play around with this.
    I forgot to add that the anothe reason to use a draw board is that this allows you to measure the draw length accurately. Most bows do measure longer than they are marked or where the module is set to. Most guys that build their own use a boat trailer winch. This isn't really precise, but accurate enough for what we're doing. When you crank it up you can stop it at or really close to when the cables reach the end of the module groove. It's at this point you can move the draw stop (without the rubber cap on it) so it's against the limb. Once you let the bow down you can replace the rubber cap and find that the cam will now stop about 1/16" short and give a very solid wall with maximum letoff.

    Then you have to shoot the bow and, as you say, play around with it till you get what you want.
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