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Thread: Newbie with a lot of questions...

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    Member deserthuntr's Avatar
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    Default Newbie with a lot of questions...

    Hi Everyone.

    Hope you are all doing very well. Recently purchased an Onza 3 and very happy with the bow. Have been shooting Hoyt for the past 10 years and they have been good to me. But now that we have a new Martin Agent in South Africa I decided to give them a go as I've been wanting to shoot Martin for many years now. But with the service form the local dealers it would have been a bad choice.

    Anyways, I am quite analytical about archery stuff, how do you time the Nitrous cams to be best effective please? Also do any of you guys have a QAD HD rest on their bridged risers? How do you keep the cord from rubbing against the riser?

    Thanks a lot guys, hope to hear from you soon.

    Regards

    Ian

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    Welcome!
    Yes I have a QAD rest on my Onza III, a spacer is supplied with the rest and it allows the rest to operate without contact to the riser. There may be just a little contact but Ive had no problems so far.
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    i have a QAD on my Nemesis, i just put hockey tape or cloth tape around the bridge where the string moved across and then waxed both the tape and string. No probs yet.
    2010 Rytera Nemesis. 63lbs/29dl 292 fps 384gr arrow. Sword 6 pin sight

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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    For timing, take a look at this video. Pretty sure it is exactly the same for the Onza.

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    Member deserthuntr's Avatar
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    Default Nitrous cam timing

    Thanks guys. Anyone have a written method of tuning the cams please?

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    Senior Member typically8's Avatar
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    I have the same bow and rest. I did not like the little ball thing you screw to the cable and the string on the release. The tech @ Cabela's separated the cable, ran the string between it and got it to the right length then cut and melted the end like a mushroom. No worries.

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    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    well i just setup my first drop away rest on my nemesis, which i think is similar to your Onza3 with the bridge riser. at first, i also concerned about the cord rubbing again the bridge riser.

    guess wat, once the cord is on place and tie fit and firm. the cord actually will not touch the bridge at full draw. Trust me... but i used a TR revolution rest.

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    Member deserthuntr's Avatar
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    Ok, great, got the rest sorted out. Thanks. Can anyone please give me a written way to sync and time the Nitrous cams please? Thanks

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    Here is a link to the cam rotation diagram - http://www.martinarchery.com/manuals...on_Diagram.pdf
    It should be in the back of your manual also.
    Now lets say that on yours the cable is crossing at the #3 hole - then you would need to put twists in the cable to the outer peg on that cam.
    If it is crossing at the #6 hole then you need to remove a twist or two from the cable to the outer peg on that cam.

    Now at full draw both cables should seat in the flat on the modules at the same time.
    If the draw stop is set where it stops the cam rotation before the cables hit the end of the mods - then back it off out of the way for the moment.
    If lets say the top cam is hitting the end of the mod but the bottom cam isnt quite there yet - then add a half twist to the outer cable on the top cam.
    Or remove a half twist from the cable to the outer peg on the bottom cam.

    Once both cables seat in the flat of both mods at the same time when you hit full draw - then just set the draw stop at that point.
    Be sure the stop is set so that the cables can not run over the edge of the mods.!
    This will give you the full 80 percent let-off.
    If you prefer a bit less let-off you can move the stop ahead a bit and have more holding weight.

    On mine I put a mark 3/8" from the end of the mods and set my draw stop to stop the cam rotation at that point.

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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    Like Spiker said, the cams are easy to tune, just make sure that they come into the flat lobe of the cam and touch the cables at the same time top and bottom.

    On a side note, you don't have to have your draw length set to do this, you can time the cams first. Then you can move the mods and the draw stop to where it fits your draw length. Just be sure that the stop is set so that you don't over rotate past the flat part of the cams... if you run into this move your mods to a higher number and adjust your draw stop peg accordingly. And welcome to the forum!
    In God and guns we trust;
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    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
    2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps

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