Any of you guys have any experience with IQ bowsights with the retna lock? How did you like it? I have been thinking about getting a new sight just wondering if it is worth the hype?
Any of you guys have any experience with IQ bowsights with the retna lock? How did you like it? I have been thinking about getting a new sight just wondering if it is worth the hype?
2010 Bone Hunter/QAD Ultra rest LD/Savage pendulum sight/Truball stinger release/CX Pile driver 350's
60% of the time it works every time!
WWW.shorewindshuntingfarm.com
Sorry, nothing to report on this sight. Once I shot a HHA OL 5519, my search for a bowsight was over.
http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
http://cascadianbowmen.com/
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, tapered POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade
I am just toying with the idea nothing definite but if i do it wont be til after the season she is shooting way to nice to go messing it up. I have always shot a pendulum but was thinking of swtching things up i have seen alot of commercials for this sight but if you pay me the right amount of money i will say something is great too!
2010 Bone Hunter/QAD Ultra rest LD/Savage pendulum sight/Truball stinger release/CX Pile driver 350's
60% of the time it works every time!
WWW.shorewindshuntingfarm.com
really
when i find myself torquing my bow it is just after i pull the trigger so i don't think this iq sight will help everone.
i got enough to look at without looking at another eyeball looking back at me. in my oppinion the peep sight & the proper anchor point & griping the bow properly will take care of the torque.
cutis
2009 alien x camo, 09 x all black , 2010 x carbon fiber
2010 nemesis camo, 2011 nemesis carbon fiber,
2010 onza 3 camo,
2010 pearson legend black riser camo limbs
My IQ isn't high enough for that type of sight. lol
2006 Rytera Bullet X 60#---2008 Moab 70#
2008/12 Firecat 60#--- 2010 Warthog 70#
2010/2012 Alien X 65# 2011 Onzas 60 & 70#
2009 Warthog 70#---2009 Firehawk 70#
2010 Strother SR-71 65# & 2012 Strother Rush 65#
I hunt, therefore I eat. lol
Last edited by elkslayer4x5; 08-22-2012 at 08:15 AM.
http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
http://cascadianbowmen.com/
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, tapered POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade
I have always used No-peep instead of a peep-sight. I think the Retina-lock of IQ sight is licensed from Timberline Archery who developed the No-peep.
I chose No-peep because I thought it would be more reliable than peep sight - no need to guess if the peep sight has moved or no hassle of the peep turning to a different angle. And if you set up some kind of light for No-peep (light is built-in for IQ sight, I believe), you can also shoot accurately in the dark - something that is harder to do with a peep sight.
The fact that it reveals torque is just a bonus, not the main point for me.
Rytera Nemesis, 2012
Martin Onza 3, 2011
Hoyt CRX 32, 2011 (SOLD)
Martin Phantom II, 2003
The problem I see with these is partly what Curtis said. Just something else to attract your attention away from the aiming process. Hunting isn't target shooting. OK, so the Retina Lock supposedly tells you whether you're torquing the bow, but how are you going to correct it? If you are using a proper grip (no grip) and it doesn't line up then the bow isn't set up properly for you and/or you are gripping the bow, which you shouldn't be doing in the first place. So if the thing doesn't line up then you have to correct something. Most guys are going to alter their grip, twist their arm, move their head or something of that nature; all things that you should not have to do. Changing the grip at full draw is one of the worst as it does nothing but create torque. If you have to move your head or alter your anchor then the bow isn't set up to fit your properly. And frankly, whatever little bit you might be off is not going to be that detrimental for accuracy for typical hunting distances.
Again, if a bow is set up properly and the draw length is optimized for you you should not have to move anything as you draw and anchor.
Last edited by bfisher; 08-24-2012 at 01:39 PM.
If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
Martin/Rytera Staff Shooter
Alien Mafia
PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
PADI AOW Diver
I have 2 4 pins on both my bows and love them. I think they give me and added edge and extend my groups out 10 yards or so. I tend to be more of and insticntive type shooter even with sights and the little green retina lock works for me especially when sitting down or some other contorted shot presents itself. Do you need it to kill a deer, no a 39 dollar Trueglow will work just as good. Remember glueing match sticks on the riser of your recurve?