I am shooting a 2013 Martin Pantera that I got last summer. I shot it for about two months when I noticed the string was coming apart where it rubs on the cam (Fury XT) I called Martin and the customer service guy was nice and helpful and said there was a problem with my mod so he sent me a new mod and string. I shot it through hunting season last fall without any problems but I picked it up last week to begin getting ready for hunting season this year. I gave it a good inspection before shooting making sure everything was tight. It shot fine for a few days and yesterday I went to shoot it and it made a horrible popping/ snaping noise about middle of my draw. I quickly let off my draw because it was loud enough and concerning enough sounding I was afraid the thing was going to blow up in my hands. I looked it over, checked everything for tightness, cracks, any visible damage, etc. From what I can tell it looks to be in fine working condition other than the string is beginning to wear a little again where it rubs the cam when drawn. I pulled it back a number of times afterwards and it is continuing to make that noise when being drawn. Any ideas?
roto cup need some grease
THE NEED FOR SPEED
WALMART PRO STAFF SHOOTER
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Figured it out today but not sure how to fix. the mod on my cam keeps coming loose no matter how much I tighten it so it is sliding when I draw it.
Do the screws tighten up? Is there a stripped hole on the can at the module connection?
2013 PANTERA w/ cloaked cams, PINK Meta peep, PINK/BROWN BSD strings, PINK/BROWN BowJax, Truglo Range Rover Pendulum Site, Shockwave Stabilizer
2012 Onza III w/cloaked cams, Meta peep, Truglo Micro Brite, Shockwave Stabilizer
2010 G5 Quest Primal
True-Fire Hardcore and Winn Free Flight releases
Maxima's tipped w/ RAGE broadheads (some w/ PINK fletching)
I'd try some #242 Loctite on the screws. If it continues to work loose then I'd call the warranty dept. and have them send you new modules.
Originally Posted by typically8
In any case I'd call and let them know it's happening so they have it on record. It could be they need to change the design. By the way, welcome to the forums.
If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
Martin Gold Plus Staff Shooter
PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
PADI AOW Diver
I agree with Fisher, I always use blue loctite on my module screws. If not for anything more than peace of mind . And welcome to the forum!
In God and guns we trust;
- One nation, under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all.
- A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
2005 Saber: 70#, same arrow, 250 fps
Welcome! I too bought my Pantera last summer and have had numerous issues, some listed on this forum. I have tried to set up a forum specifically for Pantera owners and am not sure if it has been approved or not. I will share some of my experience in hopes it helps you. First off, I learned that the screws on the cam CAN be overtightened! Use of lock-tite as mentioned in previous threads is a great idea IF it is not used as a band aid. The off season is the time to fix major issues and if the hole is stripped, it should be fixed professionally. After you determine it is or is not stripped, use lock tite conservatively and only use the non permanent kind as you will surely want the ability to adjust your cam module down the road. I was having to tighten my cam mod. screws every 25-30 shots before using a dab of lock tite and it has never been an issue since. Secondly, the "popping" sound you mentioned happened to me as well. I looked over EVERY millimeter of my Pantera and simply could not determine the cause. My pro-shop stepped in and found that the noise was actually coming from the limb bolts! There was moisture that had collected (in only a few weeks of storage after the season) on the threads of the limb bolts which formed enough rust to cause a bind when pressure from drawing was applied. This rust was not visible to my eye and had formed between the limb bolt and the limb. The technician showed me that by simply backing out the limb bolt a few turns, using a good lubricant, and properly drying the bolt the noise in fact had disappeared. One last thing I will share is that after the second set of factory limbs failed (one set cracked the other splintered) Martin finally put on a set of Dave Barnsdale limbs. If your not familiar, google them. He makes some of the best limbs in the world by hand. The bow instantly felt completely different. Faster, more accurate, and no awkward nock travel. Hope this all helps and I have more to share if your interested. Keep in touch.
I will agree that the Barnsdale limbs are 'the bomb' but I not sure how they'd eliminate "awkward nock travel". I think that when the Barnsdale limbs where installed, your cams were better aligned.
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru, 63lb, Quiktune 3000, HAA OL 5519, Beman ICS Hunter
Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, Shoot thru, 55lb, Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
Ben Pearson 1968 'Cougar' 62" 45#s @ 28" recurve, parallel shaft POC, Zwickey 'Eskimo' 2 blade
Thanks for all the help guys.