Not really. I haven't had the pleasure of setting up a Pantera to see how short it draws. I have learned enough the last few years to take little stock in what the catalog shows for draw length. Most draw longer than listed and often by as much as a full inch. What I almost always do with my bows is remove about 5 twists from the cables and add 10 to 15 twists to the string. This shortens the draw length and reduces the peak weight, changing the bow's specs, but I don't worry about specs. Doing what I do makes the Hybrix/Nitro cam smoother drawing and removes the telltale hump in the draw cycle right before the roll over. Then I set the module and the draw stop, put the bow on my draw board and fine tune it for draw length. Once I have the bow just where I want it I tune and sight in. Then I measure the draw length, a2a, brace height, draw weight, and everything else. These are the specs for MY bow.
I don't play around much with single cam bows. I cut my teeth on 4 wheel bows back in the 70's. Went to 2 wheel bows in the 80's. First 2 cam bow was a Hoyt in 1989. I shot nothing but 2 cam bows (energy wheels, really) till I joined up with Golden Eagle in 1997. 2000 thru 2003 with Pearson and nothing but single cam bows. Through that time there were a lot of issues with level nock travel, which has been corrected over time for the most part. In 2004 I joined Martin's staff and had the opportunity to go back to true dual cams and jumped at it and still shoot dual or binaries. It's a personal choice thing. You can do a lot more tweaking with dual cams and I am always tweaking something----always.
Sorry for the rant. I do this a lot. Ask some of the other guys.
If You're Not Living on the Edge You're Taking Up Too Much Space
Martin/Rytera Staff Shooter
PSAA Life member, UBP Life member
PADI AOW Diver