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Thread: 3 blade vs 4 blade

  1. #11
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tosi View Post
    I'm reading allot of you prefer the 3 over the 4 blade. This is just my experience; I've changer from the 3 blade WASP to the Slick Trick Mag 100g and the Razor Trick 100g. What a difference on Elk and South west Mule Deer. If your bow is timed and tuned the broad-head needs little to no adjustment. I just harvested a Mule Deer with a Razor Trick 100g and the shot was spot on @ 80 yards and the Deer went 15 yards. The shot went though the liver then the shoulder on exit. What a blood trail. I've harvested severely Elk and Deer over the last few years with Slick Trick and all of them were great exit holes and blood trails. For me this works, but you need to have your set up spot on. With the Razor you can see were the slice marks are, plus it a cut on contact.
    I believe you but the first sentence in Bob Cooly's post explains a lot of the problems. Either lack of knowledge or just plain lazy. The question gets asked a lot about which broadheads shoot like field points. The fact is that almost all of them will if the bow is set up well enough. This may take time and few are willing to take that time. These are the days of instant gratification with no work involved. Life just doesn't work that way.
    Last edited by bfisher; 09-12-2012 at 03:17 PM.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member Ehunter's Avatar
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    Amen Barry. It takes me several hours to assemble a dozen arrows, not counting fletching them. Cut them, (if bareshaft, cut some off both ends), square both ends, clean both ends inside and out, check insert fit, check for wobble with a broadhead, align broadhead with fletchings and glue inserts in and spin test with broadheads, install nocks or pin nock bushings depending on arrow. Not a speedy process.
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    2009 Warthog 70#---2009-10-12? Warthog Frankenbow with Nitrous B
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Tosi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfisher View Post
    I believe you but the first sentence in Bob Cooly's post explains a lot of the problems. Either lack of knowledge or just plain lazy. The question gets asked a lot about which broadheads shoot like field points. The fact is that almost all of them will if the bow is set up well enough. This may take time and few are willing to take that time. These are the days of instant gratification with no work involved. Life just doesn't work that way.
    Thxs bfish and Ehunter, both of you are spot on. Like Ehunter it takes me just not hours, weeks and over time months to get the set up just right to include; arrow weight, spine, length and timing. If any one is reading this thread just take away what both Ehunter and bfish are saying here. Start by reading and asking questions. Every archer has his/her set up that feels and works for them.
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  4. #14
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    Actually it normally takes me about four hours, thats setting up the bow with sights, rest, peep, etc. If I can get it there at 20 yards in the back yard one trip to the range will have it there to 50 yards. I don't use any fancy lazer gadgets, just eyeball everthing in and use a small level. I've seen too many lazer dialed in bows that wouldn't group at 5 yards guys have brought to me.

  5. #15
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    Bob,

    I;m much like you except that I can set up a bow to shoot and get it sighted in for 20 yards in about 2 hours. If I get lucky it broadhead tunes in another 15 minutes. It just depends on the bow and close things are initially. Once all that is done then it's tinker, tinker, tinker, tying to get that ultimate tune. I'd like to say it takes days, weeks, or months, but in all honestly I never quit till I change bows (every year) and then it's start all over again. LOL.

    I know what I'm doing, but once I get it set up I'd have to prove what I did was worth the time and I'm not that good a shot any more. More than anything I am always trying to learn new tuning methods and learning what does what when I change something.

    I remember when I got my 2004 SlayR. I put 9 different drop away rests on that bow over a period of two weeks just to see how each performed. Frankly I didn't like any of them. Ended up putting the Trophy Taker Spring Steel back on it.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member Ehunter's Avatar
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    I also forgot to mention, I broadhead test EVERY arrow that I plan on using. Took a dozen new arrows out last night, and found that 2 of them didn't group as well as the others. I shot with both 3 and 4 bladed heads. Shuttle T Locks, Magnus Stingers, and Sanders Bloodshots. Both the 3 and 4 bladed heads hit in the exact smae spot as my FP's. at 30 yards. The two that wouldn't group as well will be for practice shooting only. Might tinker with them and see if I can get them to group better, but for now, practice only.
    Last edited by Ehunter; 09-18-2012 at 04:14 PM.
    2006 Rytera Bullet X 60#---2008 Moab 70#
    2008/12 Firecat 60#--- 2010 Warthog 70#
    2009 Warthog 70#---2009-10-12? Warthog Frankenbow with Nitrous B
    2010 Strother SR-71 65# & 2012 Strother Rush 65#
    2012 Strother SX Rush 60# & 2011 Strother Infinity 70#
    BSD strings and cables

    Yeah, I know I'm grumpy and opinionated.

  7. #17
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    Ehunter; my arrow building has eliminated most of the (out of the group) arrows by simply cutting and squaring both ends before I do anything else. Oh occasionly I'll get one that's only good if you want to make carbon straws, but not often. Everthing gets fletched on an Arizona Mini with Blazer vanes now. It's much like my handloading days I just don't put too many variables into the mix. Good Archery is largely a matter of consistancy and repeatability. KISS. The majority of us are excessive tinkerers and that brings it's own set of problems. Both my bows have the same sights and rests and pull 52-48lbs so switching bows is not a big deal. Again being consistant once you find what works is the key.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Ehunter's Avatar
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    Bob, I'm the same way. I'll spend hours and $$$$ finding out what works best for me, then I'll stick with it. Same arrows, same nocks, same fletch, square both ends, check everything several times. Just usually end up with one "flyer" out of a dozen. This time it was two. I am sure it's in the inserts, so not a big deal. I have over a dozen for season, so that'll be more than enough. lol
    2006 Rytera Bullet X 60#---2008 Moab 70#
    2008/12 Firecat 60#--- 2010 Warthog 70#
    2009 Warthog 70#---2009-10-12? Warthog Frankenbow with Nitrous B
    2010 Strother SR-71 65# & 2012 Strother Rush 65#
    2012 Strother SX Rush 60# & 2011 Strother Infinity 70#
    BSD strings and cables

    Yeah, I know I'm grumpy and opinionated.

  9. #19
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    Ehunter; I have the hours just not the $ anymore. Went out this morning and 420 grn Axis tipped with a Magnus 4 blade Buzzcut, shoots dead on to 50 yrds out of my 50lb Onza. Checked a 387 grain Goldtip with the same head and it shoots on using the next pin up to beyond my range to 60 yards. What arrow are you shooting? Going in tomarrow to pull my trail cameras out be before the season opens and to set up and ground blind.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Ehunter's Avatar
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    Bob, I'm shooting the Victory VAP's with pin nocks and a 350 spine. Magnus Stinger, Shuttle T Locks, and a Sanford Innovations heads. Found the Sanfords on Ebay pretty cheap, and they looked good so I bought a few. Really like the design and they are all stainless. They shoot as straight as any heads I have ever shot. Figured I might give them a try on deer this year, and see how they do. 4 blade, 1 1/8 cut.
    2006 Rytera Bullet X 60#---2008 Moab 70#
    2008/12 Firecat 60#--- 2010 Warthog 70#
    2009 Warthog 70#---2009-10-12? Warthog Frankenbow with Nitrous B
    2010 Strother SR-71 65# & 2012 Strother Rush 65#
    2012 Strother SX Rush 60# & 2011 Strother Infinity 70#
    BSD strings and cables

    Yeah, I know I'm grumpy and opinionated.

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