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Thread: Swhackers SUCK!!!!!!!!

  1. #11
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    I believe expandables recommend higher kinetic energy numbers than fixed blade broadheads. Quick math shows yours around 63 ft/lbs. Swhacker recommends atleast 60 ft/lbs. My set-up is around 85 ft/lbs, perhaps is why I've had good success with them? I recently switched to the swhacker, but would highly recommend the Muzzy and Slick tricks. Both fly well and hit hard, I've put plenty of Muzzy's through the shoulder/varies bones with great success.
    2011 Onza 3 - 70# Skullz camo, QAD, HHA ultra, Gold tip velocitys

  2. #12
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    Tosi's right on, I'm shooting a 420grain Axis with a 4 blade Buzzcut. Fixed blade with Lifetime Replacement is a no brainer. If I could just find that tree I left one in last year I'd dig it out and get a new one for nothing but my end of the postage.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    I don't look for anything magical about a broadhead. They've been around for thousands of years and the basic concept is still the same. I have used things like The old Bear Razorheads andSavoras back in the 70's, Satellite, Thunderheads, Razorback5, Anderson 245 mags, Wasp and others. All with varying success.
    I liked the Wasp Hammerheads as they were very sharp, but after losing blades in an animal a couple of times I got to thinking about blade retention as a major criteria.
    As long as you're possibly searching for a new broadhead try this one. InnerLoc by Sullivan Industries. I found these one year when I filled in as a rep and they were on the account. These are like a Muzzy in that the ferrule screws onto the arrow, the blades slide in from the front, and a steel tip then screws in to hold the blades in place. The blades are shaped like angle iron so they almost have to break to come out of the ferrule. Like I said, similar to a Muzzy except better quality head all round. They are obviously a replaceable blade head.

    Here's how I install and use them. In general when I get a pack of broadheads I also buy several packs of replacement blades. The blades with the heads are used for tuning and practice which will dull them. For actual hunting I just put new blades in and keep the old ones for future tuning and practice. I only ever make up 3 arrows for hunting, all my quiver holds. I install the ferrules with 24 hour epoxy which allows me to spin the ferrules if necessary to align them with the shaft. The ferrules then never come off those shafts so the alignment is never compromised. Remember, ferrules have threads and threads have to have some movement so removing them from the shaft and reinstalling them does not guarantee that they will line up perfectly when reinstalled. By leaving them on the shaft alignment can't change. By using 24 hour epoxy I can also align all the blades the same for consistency. I then set them aside for that 24 hour period and then fletch the arrows, which just happens to line up the blades with the fletching. It's not necessary to do so but it just works out that way; one blade up and the other two angled at 4 and 8 o'clock respectively.

    These arrows are now my hunting arrows and I practice with them a little each year just to ensure they will all fly together on the particular setup (bow) I am using. Although I don't hunt anymore I still use them when tuning a bow. These heads have been on the same three arrows for at least 8 years now and I've never loosened the ferrules. They stay in perfect alignment.

    The only other heads that I am aware of that use similar technology are Muzzy and Slick Tricks. I know there are a lot of good reviews about Slick Trick and how they fly like field points. However, no broadhead will fly like field points unless the bow is tuned accordingly so in many cases I believe a lot of people either know how to tune properly or are just getting lucky.

    I can't use mechanicals due to physical limitations on my part. The last three deer I shot were done so with setups producing less than 40 lbs/ft of KE with complete pass throughs on two of them, like a hot knife through butter. One was a hard quartering away shot that entered behind the ribcage, penetrated to the offside shoulder and broke that shoulder,and the arrow bounced back till half of it was sticking out the entrance hole (made me wonder what happened). End result was still a dead deer that ran about 90 yards.

    Anyway, this is just a suggestion for those on a quest to find a good broadhead. There is nothing magical about any broadhead. They all are designed to do the same thing. Just remember, blades that are dull or break off or bend somewhere at impact are not going to get the job done very well. Choose thm wisely and try to keep a simple concept simple.

    Barry
    Last edited by bfisher; 10-05-2012 at 05:26 AM.
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