Shadowcat Cam Roll Over

[Lab Rat]

I agree with Ten Ring before I bought my Alien Z I thought about buying a Mathews Heli. I compared the feel of the draw cycles and the feel of the shot between the Heli and my Onza 3. I could not really feel enough of a difference to justify spending that much more money. Also you can tweak these bows to get them to feel like a pair of old blue jeans without spending a pile on modules.

[buckhunt]

I was able to get a much better, smoother draw by adjusting the draw stop and module. Less let off and better holding. The only question left is since these are adjusted so that the cam does not turn over as far, is this causing the cams to not be working to the fullest potential? Does this make sense?

[TEN RING]

I was able to get a much better, smoother draw by adjusting the draw stop and module. Less let off and better holding. The only question left is since these are adjusted so that the cam does not turn over as far, is this causing the cams to not be working to the fullest potential? Does this make sense?

if you want to get the full potential out of that bow at the same draw lenght you would have to go the other way with your adjustment on the module and draw stop then you get you hump back and shorter valley

[Lab Rat]

I would put some arrows through a chrono. When I sat my bow up this way taking let off away from tha draw cycle sped my bow up. The way my Alien shoots the fastest is with the stop set for my ideal draw length and the module set to give me a very small valley. Remember that the maximum amount of energy stored is making the area under the draw force curve the greatest and taking away the valley will increase the area under the curve. My sons Onza is slower because he likes a lot of let off and has the perception of a bump. The other thing that I did to speed the bow up was to twist the cables which advance the timing but it also increases draw force and increases brace and therefore will make the power stroke shorter. Bottom line if you are out to maximize performance you need to shoot thru a chrono, and tweak. Sounds like fun to me.

[Lab Rat]

Buck hunt for a good explanation of the draw force curve and kinetic energy check out the hunters friend website. They have an online article how to make a 400 fps bow. When the cams roll over you are actually pulling less weight. You definitely want to climb all the way to the top of the cam but rolling over deep into the valley will give you less draw weight at he end of your draw cycle.

[elkslayer4x5]

I would put some arrows through a chrono. When I sat my bow up this way taking let off away from tha draw cycle sped my bow up. The way my Alien shoots the fastest is with the stop set for my ideal draw length and the module set to give me a very small valley. Remember that the maximum amount of energy stored is making the area under the draw force curve the greatest and taking away the valley will increase the area under the curve. My sons Onza is slower because he likes a lot of let off and has the perception of a bump. The other thing that I did to speed the bow up was to twist the cables which advance the timing but it also increases draw force and increases brace and therefore will make the power stroke shorter. Bottom line if you are out to maximize performance you need to shoot thru a chrono, and tweak. Sounds like fun to me.

Would'nt a shorter power stroke give you less accereration and therefor less speed?

[bfisher]

Would'nt a shorter power stroke give you less accereration and therefor less speed?

Absolutely. That's why a shorter draw length produces less speed for a given draw weight in a particular bow. It's always been that way and will continue to be so. Never compromise your draw length to get more speed, though. Bow is only capable of so much. You can manipulate cam orientation, add speed balls, shoot lighter arrows and other things to get as much speed as the bow is capable of, but there are limits. What's more you almost have to have a chronograph to check the results of any changes you make.