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Thread: New Bengal Pro - Adjustments/ noise

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    Default New Bengal Pro - Adjustments/ noise

    Hello from Austria!! (-> warning: non-native-english-speaker)

    I finally got my new bengal pro and im loving it!!!

    This is my first martin (i shot a hoyt rampage xt before) and i have two questions:

    1. What exactly is over-rotation and when does it occur?? Do you over-rotate the cam if you dont coordinate the draw lenght with the draw stop?? (For example using 26'' and moving the drawstop-peg all the way to +)

    Is this cam set correctly??

    DSC05395.jpgDSC05396.jpg

    2. Why is my bow so loud? Im using string-silencers but the bow makes some strange (metallic?) sound when i shoot it.. I heard that this could be caused by over-rotation?!
    Last edited by Lukeiio; 12-27-2012 at 12:22 PM.

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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    1. Your cam is advanced because of the -10# peg.
    2. Check all of your hardware to make sure it is all tight/snug (mod screws).
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    thank you for your answer!!

    i will set my bow to 70 pounds asap! what is an advanced cam?
    when set at stnd-peg i will have to move the module to position 1 if i want to maintain the current draw length (~27''), is that correct? im a noob!
    i believe everything is tight but theres still a bit of noise.. but actually i dont really care about that very much, i just want to make sure that theres is no (noisy) malfunction that could cause damage to my beloved bow!!
    Last edited by Lukeiio; 12-28-2012 at 08:58 AM.

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    Senior Member droppixel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeiio View Post
    thank you for your answer!!

    i will set my bow to 70 pounds asap! what is an advanced cam?
    when set at stnd-peg i will have to move the module to position 1 if i want to maintain the current draw length (~27''), is that correct? im a noob!
    i believe everything is tight but theres still a bit of noise.. but actually i dont really care about that very much, i just want to make sure that theres is no (noisy) malfunction that could cause damage to my beloved bow!!
    Advanced/Retarded cam position is the starting point of the rotation. The way yours is in the photo is advanced. Retarded would be the opposite.

    I'm not 100% sure if changing the cable will change the module setting. Spec sheet says 27" will be #1 - if you are on the -10# it would be #2.

    Source of the noise will want to be found. Other thing to look at is if the limbs are fully seated into the rotocup. You can break the bow down and check that out and add a little grease to it if needed.
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    Member themiddleman's Avatar
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    Default Bengal Pro

    Hi lukeiio
    I see a couple of issues with your Bengal that you are going to want to fix before it shot again. the modules screws are supposed to be on both ends of the module not side-by-side as pictured. I'm sure the noise you're hearing is the module vibrating. There is a very good chance the cable could slip between the cam and mod the way it is. It will be an easy fix but you'll need a bow press to fix it. Why don't you go ahead and give me a call be more glad to help.

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    @ droppixel/themiddleman: thanks for your help!!!

    @ themiddleman: i believe calling you is not a good idea because i live in vienna/ austria. -> phone-bill! besides i think my spoken english is quite a mess..

    I listed the issues that i should discuss with the local dealer here in vienna:

    1. Set the cable to stnd-peg (+ change module to #1 position) -> press

    2. Change position of the module screws as far to the end of the module as possible (i think some module-screw positions are blocked at certain drawlength settings) -> press

    3. ?? Please let me know if you can think of anything else!!

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    Senior Member gravedigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeiio View Post
    @ droppixel/themiddleman: thanks for your help!!!

    @ themiddleman: i believe calling you is not a good idea because i live in vienna/ austria. -> phone-bill! besides i think my spoken english is quite a mess..

    I listed the issues that i should discuss with the local dealer here in vienna:

    1. Set the cable to stnd-peg (+ change module to #1 position) -> press

    2. Change position of the module screws as far to the end of the module as possible (i think some module-screw positions are blocked at certain drawlength settings) -> press

    3. ?? Please let me know if you can think of anything else!!
    welcome to MTF

    anything i could think of has been said but i did want to let you know that most martin bows do not need to be pressed.you can back out the limb bolts to relax the string and take it down your self.i make a mark on the limb bolt,washer and limb to keep my turns even.2 turns up top and 2 on the bottom till you can get the string/cable off.

    one more thing.take lots of pics if you decide to take down the bow your self so you know how it all goes back together

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    Unhappy

    @gravedigger:
    thank you very much for the tip!!!

    is it necessary to make marks and take pics if i do not take the limb-bolts out the whole way ?? i mean im not supposed to seperate the limbs from the riser, maybe 6-8 (or something) full turns could be enough to relax the string/ cables and after the work is done i just start to alternately screw the bolts back in?!

    one more thing.take lots of pics if you decide to take down the bow your self so you know how it all goes back together
    what does 'take down the bow' mean exactly? i thought i would just be backing out the bolts, please let me know if theres is any severe chance that the bow falls apart on me if i do this on my own!!!

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    Senior Member elkslayer4x5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravedigger View Post
    welcome to MTF

    anything i could think of has been said but i did want to let you know that most martin bows do not need to be pressed.you can back out the limb bolts to relax the string and take it down your self.i make a mark on the limb bolt,washer and limb to keep my turns even.2 turns up top and 2 on the bottom till you can get the string/cable off.

    one more thing.take lots of pics if you decide to take down the bow your self so you know how it all goes back together
    Also, keep an eye on the Barrel nut ( the round nut imbedded in the riser that the limb bolt goes into ) and don't take the end of the bolt up out of the barrel nut, back them out until you can just see light through the barrel nut, at that point, the rigging will be slack enough to remove cables and string. And as GD said take plenty of pics so that you will know where everything goes. Good Luck. And Welcome to the forum!
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    Super Moderator bfisher's Avatar
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    On most of the Martin/Rytera bows that I've worked on it was possible to turn the limb bolts out about 10 turns before I saw daylight through the barrel nuts. At that point you can get about 2 more turns. for total of 12. Just watch the end of the bolt through the barrel nut. When working on the module, if one of the screws is hidden behind the limb you can just squeeze the cable to that cam toward the riser and this should rotate the cam enough to get at that screw. Keep us posted.
    Last edited by bfisher; 12-30-2012 at 12:58 PM.
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