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Thread: My Rytera Nemesis spec deviations

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    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Default My Rytera Nemesis spec deviations

    A few observations of my new 2012 Nemesis, as I've had a chance to look it closer now.

    Axle-to-Axle

    34 3/4". This is surprisingly long, as the nominal is 34".

    Brace height

    7 1/4" (nominal is 7")

    Draw length

    This is how I read the specs, and how I measured the actual draw length of the bow.

    Module position / nominal draw
    7 / 30
    6 / 29,5
    5 / 29 => position 5 should give 29" draw with the Nemesis
    4 / 28,5 => but actually already position 4 gave me 29,5" draw

    Thus, the draw length was running a full inch long if I have read the specs correctly. This is a big deviation.

    Cam lean

    The upper cam has more cam lean than I would have liked to see. In this picture, I have an arrow placed on the left side of the upper cam (the side without the DL module). You can see that it crosses the string quite clearly:



    Cam timing

    Perfect straight from the factory.

    Limb markings

    My Onza 3 has a limb deflection code "3HP" in the limbs, whereas the Nemesis says "1HP". Both are 60# models so I would have assumed identical limb deflection code. Explanations, anyone?

    Shooting and tuning the bow

    Regardless of the cam lean, it was easy to tune and I shoot bullet holes in paper test. Haven't tested with broadheads yet, though, but I wouldn't expect any trouble based on the paper test result. With field tips, I can shoot the bow accurately.

    Serial number

    Starts with "11", so is this actually a 2011 model and not 2012?

    Now what?

    I wonder if I should fix the ATA closer to nominal and whether I should worry about the cam lean. I tend to think that why worry, if only the bow passes the final test and shoots broadheads to the same point of impact with field tips. However, if I took that perfectionist attitude, I think I could do the following:

    - add some equal amount of twists to both cables. Expected effect: longer draw length (not wanted), more draw weight (OK), shorter ATA (wanted), longer brace height (OK)
    - in addition to the previous, add some twists to the string. Expected effect: shorter draw length (OK since compensates the opposite cable twist effect), less draw weight (OK since compensates the opposite cable twist effect), shorter ATA (wanted), longer brace height (OK)

    This bow has no yokes for cam lean adjustment, but basically I think adding twists to the cables should have at least a minor effect on that.

    Comments anyone?
    Last edited by Phantonza; 01-02-2013 at 03:10 PM.

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
    Martin Onza 3, 2011
    Hoyt CRX 32, 2011 (SOLD)
    Martin Phantom II, 2003

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    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    My bow also does not read exactly on the sticker....

    i have ATA close to 35", Brace almost 7".

    1MP - 50# 2.0Cam - 155 (Barndales limb) .... I got mine 135- which is a 60# for my Nemesis.
    1MP - 60# 1.5Cam - 155 (Barndales Limb)

    Cam Lean?? i no expert in this field. personally donno much for cam lean so cant answer you.

    Oh ya, on the draw length. I never measure, as i put on Hole 1#, suppose to read 27", but i have shorten tiny bit by lengthen the cable and shorten the string and just feel nice....

    For the date on the sticker. Nemesis is in the market in 2010 if im not mistaken, but mine is 2009.
    It could be your bow is manufacturered end of 2011 for 2012 market.

    My bow still shoot straight, so it doesnt distract me much, and it perform as wanted and till present, yet to fail me.
    Last edited by daiwateampenn; 01-02-2013 at 06:30 PM. Reason: typo error
    Bowless..... shopping for one now, Sureloc Challenger + Viper Scope, Trophy Ridge Revolution, GoldTIP + Blazer Vane + Accunocks, Home Made Front Stab 28", and Side Stab 11", Carter 2 Special.

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    Super Moderator Arrow Splitter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantonza View Post

    Serial number

    Starts with "11", so is this actually a 2011 model and not 2012?
    I agree with Alex,

    I believe the reason for this was that it was produced in 2011 for 2012, and thus it was marked 2011.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantonza View Post
    A few observations of my new 2012 Nemesis, as I've had a chance to look it closer now.

    Axle-to-Axle

    34 3/4". This is surprisingly long, as the nominal is 34".

    Brace height

    7 1/4" (nominal is 7")

    Draw length

    This is how I read the specs, and how I measured the actual draw length of the bow.

    Module position / nominal draw
    7 / 30
    6 / 29,5
    5 / 29 => position 5 should give 29" draw with the Nemesis
    4 / 28,5 => but actually already position 4 gave me 29,5" draw

    Thus, the draw length was running a full inch long if I have read the specs correctly. This is a big deviation.

    Cam lean

    The upper cam has more cam lean than I would have liked to see. In this picture, I have an arrow placed on the left side of the upper cam (the side without the DL module). You can see that it crosses the string quite clearly:



    Cam timing

    Perfect straight from the factory.

    Limb markings

    My Onza 3 has a limb deflection code "3HP" in the limbs, whereas the Nemesis says "1HP". Both are 60# models so I would have assumed identical limb deflection code. Explanations, anyone?

    Shooting and tuning the bow

    Regardless of the cam lean, it was easy to tune and I shoot bullet holes in paper test. Haven't tested with broadheads yet, though, but I wouldn't expect any trouble based on the paper test result. With field tips, I can shoot the bow accurately.

    Serial number

    Starts with "11", so is this actually a 2011 model and not 2012?

    Now what?

    I wonder if I should fix the ATA closer to nominal and whether I should worry about the cam lean. I tend to think that why worry, if only the bow passes the final test and shoots broadheads to the same point of impact with field tips. However, if I took that perfectionist attitude, I think I could do the following:

    - add some equal amount of twists to both cables. Expected effect: longer draw length (not wanted), more draw weight (OK), shorter ATA (wanted), longer brace height (OK)
    - in addition to the previous, add some twists to the string. Expected effect: shorter draw length (OK since compensates the opposite cable twist effect), less draw weight (OK since compensates the opposite cable twist effect), shorter ATA (wanted), longer brace height (OK)

    This bow has no yokes for cam lean adjustment, but basically I think adding twists to the cables should have at least a minor effect on that.

    Comments anyone?
    ok my methods... don't worry about the ata and bh... if your bow issupposed to be 60 pounds but only comes in at 57 you need to work on your cables, as far as draw length being long work on your string also, this wil lget your ata and bh much closer. what is more important ata and bh or poundage and draw length fitment to you?

    if your bow has 11 on the sticker it was made in 2011 they could put a 2012 sticker on it and it would be the same bow, i don't know why about the year the bow made and when you bought it as far as 2011 and 2012. maybe the dealer you bought it from did not know any different and told you it was a 2012 instead of 2011 really no good answer for you there

    cam lean with the hybrix cams you really can't adjust it if your bow groups well it does not matter

    limb deflections can change from bow to bow and from 2.0 cams and 1.5 cams and year to year you should contact martin tech support they may have more info available for you about that

    i have honestly always started with my bows by checking draw weight and length and adjusted strings to get the correct numbers it will vary from bow to bow as to how many twists you will need to accomplish. then also recheck your timing. then shoot it to settle the strings and recheck everything

    strings are not perfect and there are variences in materials and techniques. some days it is hotter or colder and strings settle and change more or less depending on those many variables.

    kinda like lot numbers for paint you may not get an exact match because of the different inredients and that is why they put a lot number on cans of paint

    limb materials, string materials, all that stuff can have variences. most bow companies give an ibo speed as an approximation as well as ata and bh.

    take the shadowcat. the first ones were different than the final production ones as far as ata

    so the limb deflections and strings and stuff may not be exact as far as measurements from bow to bow.

    sometimes things go one way according to paper work and theory and then in the end end up needing to be different to achieve the best results. most pros set their bow up to what works for them and may not be the exact specs about a bow from the manufacturer


    hope that helps some.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daiwateampenn View Post
    My bow also does not read exactly on the sticker....
    i have ATA close to 35", Brace almost 7".
    ...
    Oh ya, on the draw length. I never measure, as i put on Hole 1#, suppose to read 27", but i have shorten tiny bit by lengthen the cable and shorten the string and just feel nice....
    If you lengthened the cable, that would increase the ATA. Or was it close to 35" at factory settings already?

    For the date on the sticker. Nemesis is in the market in 2010 if im not mistaken, but mine is 2009.
    It could be your bow is manufacturered end of 2011 for 2012 market.
    Good point!

    Off-topic question: how do you like that Trophy Ridge Revolution arrow rest?

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
    Martin Onza 3, 2011
    Hoyt CRX 32, 2011 (SOLD)
    Martin Phantom II, 2003

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    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by archerdad View Post
    ok my methods... don't worry about the ata and bh... if your bow issupposed to be 60 pounds but only comes in at 57 you need to work on your cables, as far as draw length being long work on your string also, this wil lget your ata and bh much closer.
    I haven't actually measured the pounds yet (the meter had no batteries in it). The factory quality check sticker says 60# (was 62# for my Onza) and I can feel the bow indeed has somewhat less draw weight than the Onza.

    what is more important ata and bh or poundage and draw length fitment to you?
    Yes, I suppose so. Since it's all okay now, why fiddle with it

    if your bow has 11 on the sticker it was made in 2011 they could put a 2012 sticker on it and it would be the same bow, i don't know why about the year the bow made and when you bought it as far as 2011 and 2012. maybe the dealer you bought it from did not know any different and told you it was a 2012 instead of 2011 really no good answer for you there
    Doesn't matter much, anyway. I think model 2010 had different strings and a different looking VEM module on the riser, but I am not aware of any difference between 2011 and 2012 models. Just curious.

    cam lean with the hybrix cams you really can't adjust it if your bow groups well it does not matter
    Agreed. Some bows are very sensitive to cam lean and the arrow rest tuning may not work if the cams are not in correct angle. The Hybrix/Nitro cam bows don't seem to be that sensitive about it.

    limb deflections can change from bow to bow and from 2.0 cams and 1.5 cams and year to year you should contact martin tech support they may have more info available for you about that
    Again, no problem since the poundage seems to be the correct magnitude. Just a bit confused since the limbs of the Onza and Nemesis have the same dimensions and the bows are both 60#.

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
    Martin Onza 3, 2011
    Hoyt CRX 32, 2011 (SOLD)
    Martin Phantom II, 2003

  7. #7
    Senior Member daiwateampenn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantonza View Post
    If you lengthened the cable, that would increase the ATA. Or was it close to 35" at factory settings already?



    Good point!

    Off-topic question: how do you like that Trophy Ridge Revolution arrow rest?

    i did lengthen the cable for shorten draw length. Even i didnt lengthen it read 34 5/8".


    Trophy Ridge revolution rest - to answer you. i send thousands of shot over this small little thing. still working great. easy to setup (make sure u follow the instruction of the manual), and great rest for accuracy. If i to buy another arrow rest, definately will be this one again.
    Bowless..... shopping for one now, Sureloc Challenger + Viper Scope, Trophy Ridge Revolution, GoldTIP + Blazer Vane + Accunocks, Home Made Front Stab 28", and Side Stab 11", Carter 2 Special.

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    Senior Member Phantonza's Avatar
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    I tested with broadheads today: no problem, they hit the same point as the field tips.

    I think I will not add twists to cables unless I need more pounds some day. I still have not measured it, but comparing to the feel of my Onza, the max. draw weight I get out of the Nemesis is now clearly less than 60#.

    Rytera Nemesis, 2012
    Martin Onza 3, 2011
    Hoyt CRX 32, 2011 (SOLD)
    Martin Phantom II, 2003

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    Senior Member wscywabbit's Avatar
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    One thought is that if it shoots well, then it doesn't matter a whole lot. However, if you are like me, and a little anal retentive, you want things as close to "spec" as possible.

    I would suggest that you remove each string one at a time, measure them (under pressure, 100# I believe, or as close as you can get), make youre adjustments and reinstall each one. Then see what you get.

    One thing you may notice, (and it seems counter-intuitive) is that as you shorten your cables the higher the draw weight, and slightly longer your draw length. The shorter your shooting string, shorter your draw length and the lower your poundage (has to do with your cam wrap and rotation). And of course, vise-versa.

    But I suspect that if you set your string lengths to stock, you'll probably be very close to spec.
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    2011 Onza 3: 70#, 28.25 draw (AMO), 384 gr arrow, 288 fps
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    Administrator bfisher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wscywabbit View Post
    One thought is that if it shoots well, then it doesn't matter a whole lot. However, if you are like me, and a little anal retentive, you want things as close to "spec" as possible.

    I would suggest that you remove each string one at a time, measure them (under pressure, 100# I believe, or as close as you can get), make youre adjustments and reinstall each one. Then see what you get.

    One thing you may notice, (and it seems counter-intuitive) is that as you shorten your cables the higher the draw weight, and slightly longer your draw length. The shorter your shooting string, shorter your draw length and the lower your poundage (has to do with your cam wrap and rotation). And of course, vise-versa.

    But I suspect that if you set your string lengths to stock, you'll probably be very close to spec.
    You explained this fairly well. One thing I would point out is that twiating the cables can get the bow closer to the specified ATA, but you can balance this somewhat by also twisting the string, essentially putting more preload on the limbs while trying to maintain a certain draw length. Hope I'm explaining this right. Twisting of the rigging won't have as much effect on the brace height with parallel limb bows. It will change somewhat due to different cam orientation, but not as much as with more vertical limbed bows.
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